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INDOOR BULBS – A FORETASTE OF SPRING
by Sally Cogdill

     Winter months needn’t be bleak for gardening enthusiasts.  Forced bulbs, with their colorful blooms and delightful fragrance, are just the remedy for gray winter days.

     In gardening, “forcing” means coaxing a plant to flower before its normal time to bloom.  By chilling bulbs in early fall gardeners can entice bulbs to bloom ahead of schedule, that is, in winter or early spring.  You may chill crocus and hyacinth bulbs prior to planting by placing them in the crisper section of the refrigerator.  However, don’t store them with fruit.  Apples and other fruits give off ethylene gas that kills flower buds.  Daffodils (narcissi) and tulips should be planted in containers first and then chilled in a cold garage, shed or basement where the temperature is between 35-48° F.

            CHILLING PERIODS:
   Hyacinths: 10-13 weeks
   Crocuses: 14-15 weeks
   Tulips: 13-15 weeks          
   Muscari: 14-15 weeks
   Daffodils (Narcissi): 13-16 weeks
   Paper-whites: None needed

     Generally, bulbs are planted in shallow (4-5” deep) bulb pans.  These containers should have a drainage hole because bulbs need good drainage to prevent rot.  Cover the hole with pebbles, screening or broken pottery.  Spread a layer of potting soil in the pot.  Set the bulbs on the potting soil so that the tip of the bulb is about even with the top of the pot.  Tulip bulbs should be place with the flat side of the bulb facing out.  Place bulbs close together, about ½ inch apart, using as many bulbs as needed to fill the container.  Add additional potting soil to the container until just the tips of the bulbs are showing.  Water thoroughly.  Keep the soil moist but not wet.  After the bulbs have chilled and they have roots and green shoots, move the pots to a sunny, warm (60° F) location.  They will bloom in about two weeks.

     Some bulbs don’t have to be planted in potting soil.  Instead, they will grow in water.  To grow paper-whites (Narcissus tazetta) in water, fill a shallow bowl about 2/3 full with pebbles or marbles.  Place the paper-white bulbs on the pebbles about ½ inch apart.  Add more pebbles between the bulbs.  Add water to the bowl just to the bottom of the bulbs.  Keep the container in a cool, dark place and replenish water as needed.  When green shoots appear move the container to a sunny, but cool, area of the houses.  If you prefer, you can grow paper-whites in potting soil. They don’t require chilling and will bloom about six weeks after being planted.

     Hyacinths also will grow in water.  They should be chilled in a refrigerator or cold spot for about three months before being placed in a special hyacinth bulb glass.  Fill the glass with water up to the bottom of the narrow neck and place the bulb in the cup at the top.  Set the bulb glass in a cool, dark place.  When flower buds appear in about two weeks, move the vase to a sunny, warm spot.

     While paper-whites, tulips, hyacinths and daffodils are the bulbs most frequently forced, you can also force crocuses, glory-of-the-snow (Chionodoxa luciliae), grape hyacinths (Muscari), snowdrops (Galanthus nivalis) and others. These plants tend to prefer cooler house temperatures and have a shorter period of bloom.  Daffodil varieties that are recommended for forcing include Jack Snipe, Peeping Tom, Tete-a-Tete, February Gold, Dutch Master, Ice Follies and Mount Hood.  Popular tulip varieties include any of the Tulipa kaufmanniana hybrids, Apricot Beauty, Kees Nelis and Christmas Marvel. 

     Go ahead – fool Mother Nature!  When the forced bulbs come into bloom in winter, you’ll be glad you did.

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