image
image
image
  

How To Keep Pets Safe During the Holidays
By:  Elizabeth Bublitz
Author of Pawfriendly Landscapes

            Colorado weather brings so many surprises -as a Colorado native, I cannot remember a warmer November.  I realize we need the moisture but I’m hoping to be spoiled a little longer – this is incredible!  However, regardless of the weather, we consider dogs and their yards all year round.  In fact, we install landscapes in the winter since dogs use their yard many times a day, regardless of the rain, snow, cold, wind, etc.  This means dogs can dig, wear down sod on “squirrel patrol,” eat plants, stress sod with urine or worse, escape which can lead to harm or even death, even in the winter. 

            I’d like to explain how to remedy any (or all!) that apply to your unique situation.  When dogs dig in a garden, they do it for many reasons.  Perhaps they’re bored (always provide daily walks, toys and access to the indoors) or triggered by an odor, plant or just the desire to dig in a particular area.  Digging is not always a bad thing – the only time it becomes a problem is when dogs dig in the grass, along the foundation (moisture can get into your foundation) or when they’re tracking in mud or creating erosion.  Like all of my solutions, there is a cost effective, easy way to handle this dilemma.  If a dog is digging in the aforementioned areas (except the sod), it’s best to re-grade the area (smooth it out), install landscape fabric (if rock is used) and place a piece of chicken wire (that covers the dug up area) on top of the fabric in the area he is digging (wood mulch does not require fabric so the steps would be regrade, install chicken wire and wood mulch).  Be sure to roll the cut chicken wire edges into the fabric (or duct tape around the area) so your dog does not hurt himself – cut chicken wire is very sharp and can cut a dog’s paw.  Also, be sure to use fabric pins to secure the chicken wire.

            If your dog is digging in the grass, chicken wire is not the solution.  Instead, we cut out the sod to create a berm or extend an existing garden, install plants and mulch and let him continue digging in the area.  We do not want to patch up all of his digging areas because he will become frustrated and start digging elsewhere.  Therefore, if the existing digging areas are cosmetic, let him continue digging and install a boulder, thorny plant or container in front of it so nobody sees the hole.  Many people install sand pits for their dogs to dig in since they believe dogs are enticed by it.  I have yet to see this – many of my clients end up attracting the neighbors’ cats and have to tear it out.  I always follow the dog’s habits and use the right material so my clients are not frustrated and their yard remains intact.  Respecting the dog’s habits and using the correct material is the safest way to go when installing a new yard.

            Wearing down sod happens all year since squirrels “play” with dogs and dogs chase them all the time!  Another trigger that wears down sod are neighbor’s dogs – many dogs share a fence with other dogs and they have “a barking contest” while running back and forth.  Since no plant will withstand heavy foot traffic, it’s best to tear out the sod to create a runway for your dog.  To do this, start by lining out the designated area with a hose, flour or inversion spray paint; then, install roll top edging along the new line, install fabric and 1.5” river rock (its round so it’s easy on their paws and its size will not migrate like pea gravel).  You can create beautiful contour lines so you don’t have a “box of sod” anymore but instead interesting organic shapes along your fence.  Be sure your runway is 3’ wide – that is very comfortable for foot traffic.  If you think it looks too bare, install some plants toward your edging (at the front of the runway) so your dogs can run freely along the fence.  Do not block their way since they will start running on the sod – keep all plants and obstacles away from the fence.

            If your dog eats plants, be sure to install plants that are textured or thorny.  Many plant tags indicate if a plant is deer resistant.  These plants also deter dogs.  Many evergreens and barberrys work well and they offer year round interest.  Do not use any toxic plants (yews, holly, and boxwood, among others) for obvious reasons.  For a list of toxic plants, please visit my website at www.pawfriendlylandscapes.com or contact your local poison control.

            Dogs will use their yard all year to eliminate.  Since there is no plant that withstands urine, it will always kill plants.  Thankfully dogs are creatures of habit and normally will eliminate in the same place.  There are a few preventatives that eliminate urine burns – one is called “Pet Peeve” and is available at most stores that carry pet products.   It needs to be applied three times a year and works very well.  Also, you can create a new garden area where they’re going to the bathroom.  Again, we’re respecting their habits and are designing around them.  Simply remove the affected sod and design an inviting garden for them to use as a bathroom area.  You can choose either wood mulch or rock with an assortment of strategically placed plant material.  We do not want to deter your dog from using his new bathroom area but we also do not to install plants that he’ll kill.  Installing plant material in a bathroom area should be installed at the front to shield the feces (especially in the winter when it’s hard to clean up after them) and placed in areas where he will not defecate on or trample them.

            Another method to eliminate dogs from killing plants is my “fire hydrant” theory.  This applies if your dog is killing a plant by lifting his leg on it.  To remedy this, remove the plant and install a container, boulder, planter or statue.  In other words, install something that will not die.  This will create interest in your yard year round. 

            The last issue is when your dog escapes.  This is so heartbreaking since many dogs end up in a shelter or being hit by a car.  Be sure to microchip your dog (ask your veterinarian about this) and keep his tags current.  If your dog is a jumper, it’s best to secure lattice where he’s jumping. I see this a lot when utility boxes are next to a fence.  Many dogs use them as launching pads to jump.  Simply secure some lattice to the middle of your fence to create more height.  If your Home Owner’s Association does not approve of this, you can use sheep wire which is less conspicuous.  Angle it toward the yard so when your dog looks up, it will appear as if something is coming down on him.  This usually deters a jumping dog. 

            If your dog is digging out, secure chicken wire about 8” off the ground to your fence.  Fasten it with nails or a staple gun.  Bring the chicken wire down to the ground; it should lie on the ground about a foot or so creating the shape of a “J” or “L”.  Use fabric pins to secure it onto the fabric or ground.  If you have sod up to your fence, remove the sod and create a new runway for your dog.  You cannot install chicken wire on top of sod. 

            If you have any questions, please feel free to contact me.  Remember, dogs can wreak havoc on their yards all year.  If your dogs are “autographing” their yard, you can remedy it even in the winter – just be sure the ground is workable and if plants are necessary, make sure they get plenty of winter water.

For more information please go to www.pawfriendlylandscapes.com 

    


image