| Q: |
Hello, I'm new to Colorado and
we planted lots of zinnias last spring. Now that they're dead, do we need
to completely remove them, or just cut them down? I can't seem to find an
article that tells me what to do with them in the fall. B. G., Parker,
11/2/07 |
| A: |
You can completely remove the
zinnias that are dead. Zinnias are annuals that complete their life
cycle in a year.
|
| |
|
| Q: |
Hello,
I live in the Chicago area. Each May around Mother's Day I go to my
local nursery and purchase my plants for the season. My flowers are
all in pots and hanging baskets. My problem is with the direct
sunlight they endure for half of the day they don't hold up well and are
"unsightly.'' I have tried different varieties of flowers but the
results are the same year after year. I would appreciate your
suggestions. M. J., Chicago, 10/17/07 |
| A: |
The following are a few tips for containers
that must endure summer heat:
1) Use large pots. Small pots dry out very
quickly.
2) Use a good quality potting soil mix, not
dirt from the yard.
3) Use a soil mix that contains slow-release
fertilizer granules or add these to the potting soil when you plant the
containers.
4) Use a soil mix that provides for moisture
retention. Check the containers regularly - even daily - to make sure
they are getting enough water without the soil being soggy.
5) Select heat-tolerant plants such as
Ageratum, Mont Blanc Nierembergia, Rose Moss (Portulaca), Madagascar
Periwinkle (Catharanthus roseus), Cockscomb (Celosia), Dusty Miller (Senecio)
and Zinnia.
6) Deadhead dead flower blossoms and trim or
pinch back foliage to prevent it from getting leggy.
|
| |
|
| Q: |
I am so glad I found this
website!!! I am new to the Denver area and to flowering plants in
general. The home I recently purchased has about 9 rose bushes in total (3
in front & 6 in the back), 4 aspens, an odd apple tree variety, and ground
cover. I would like to continue the care that the previous owners started
with the roses and introduce some new plants to both the backyard and front.
We are south facing and receive a lot of sun. How should I winterize my
roses? What other flowers do you recommend for my Aurora backyard? Can you
recommend an arborist for my aspens? I believe two are dying. L. B.,
Aurora, 9/11/07 |
| A: |
There are several steps to winterizing
roses. Clean up fallen leaves to prevent disease organisms from
over-wintering. Prune bushes to about three feet high. Place a layer
of soil or mulch over the crown of the plant. A rose collar helps to
keep the mulch in place. Water the roses once or twice a month during
winter when the ground isn't frozen.
Many flowers grow well here. A
combination of perennials, annuals and bulbs provide months of color.
Plant spring-blooming bulbs such as tulips and daffodils in late
September or early October. Pansies are nice in fall and spring when
little else blooms. Check your local garden centers and home
improvement stores for plants in spring.
I am not familiar with arborists in
Aurora. Look for "tree service" in your phone directory or
http://www.dexonline.com/. Chose a company that has
"certified arborists."
|
| |
|
| Q: |
Where can I find a plant list
for growing in Estes Park, CO.? P. M., Washington, D. C., 8/10/07 |
| A: |
|
| |
|
| Q: |
Why are my flowering plants not
flowering? M. B., Grand Junction, 7/14/07 |
| A: |
There can be several reasons for
flowering plants not to flower. Too much nitrogen fertilizer can result in
lush growth but few flowers. Weather conditions affect flowering. Some
plants don't flower in hot weather, others don't flower in cool weather.
Too little sunlight can cause poor bloom. It can be difficult to pinpoint
the exact cause for a specific plant. |
| |
|
| Q: |
I would like to know if I can
grow Hens and Chicks inside in the winter in a planter. Thank you, K.
Iowa City, IA; 5/12/07
|
| A: |
Hens and Chicks can be grown
indoors in winter. They will need a spot that gets lots of bright sun.
They prefer dry conditions, so you will need to be careful not to over-water
them. |
| |
|
| Q: |
Can you split clematis?
J., Johnston, IA; 3/27/07
|
| A: |
Yes, you can propagate a clematis
by root division. Clematis is often propagated by softwood cuttings
taken in spring or by semi-hardwood cuttings taken in late spring through
late summer. |
| |
|
| Q: |
When is a good time to start
planting bulbs and flowers? I am new to Colorado and unsure when
to plant and what sort of plants do well here. Thank you.
S., Brighton, 2/24/07 |
| A: |
Spring-flowering bulbs such as tulips and
daffodils should be planted in late September or early October.
Summer-blooming bulbs such as cannas, gladiola and dahlias are planted
in mid-May after the danger of frost is past. Please click on Articles
in the menu on our website to find more information on these.
Most annual flowers (examples: petunias,
marigolds, lobelia, etc. that grow for one season) and many perennials
are planted in mid-May. Local stores such as Wal-Mart, Lowe's and Home
Depot and garden centers will carry a large number of plants in spring
and summer that do well here. A word of warning -- don't plant them too
early, even if they are for sale at stores and garden centers in April.
A late frost can kill them.
|
| |
|
| Q: |
Do you have any suggestions
for rare and unusual plants for hanging baskets? Not something you'd
see at Home Depot or the small local nursery. G. L., Denver,
2/22/07 |
| A: |
If you have a sunny location, small
varieties of Bougainvillea are stunning in hanging baskets. They are
tender, so don't put them out until mid or late May. Succulents are
also suited to sunny sites in hanging baskets. A unique look is a
hanging succulent ball (sphere).
If the hanging baskets are going to
be in the shade, look for unique houseplants that can spend the
summer outdoors.
|
| |
|
| Q: |
Hello! This site is great.
I have some Autumn Sage (Salvia greggii) and was wondering how I should take
care of them. They bloomed wonderful their first summer, and I do not know
what to do for them next summer. Can you please give me some suggestions?
Also what type of other sages do well as a plant grouping for a border with
color? Thank you. L. W., Canon City, 12/24/06 |
| A: |
Autumn Sage (Salvia greggii) needs
little water. During the growing season water it about once a week. Be
careful not to over-water it or it will die. Pinch or lightly prune the
plant and deadhead spent flowers to encourage the plant to keep
blooming. The plant may die back to the ground in winter, but hopefully
it will grow back from its roots. There are several cultivars of Autumn
Sage, so you may be able to find one that works well with the one you
already have. Silver Sage (Salvia argentea), Meadow Sage (Salvia
pratensis) and Salvia x sylvestris 'May Night' are other options.
|
| |
|
| Q: |
My indoor paperwhites are
done blooming now since Thanksgiving. My question is, how do I save them
for future projects. A. F., Golden, 12/1/06 |
| A: |
Unfortunately, the paperwhites will not
bloom again indoors. You can try planting them outdoors, and they may
bloom in a couple of years.
|
| |
|
| Q: |
I have 2 fuchsia hanging plants
and was wondering how I can winterize them. Will they grow inside for the
winter? D., Tiverton, RI; 10/18/06 |
| A: |
Fuchsias can be grown inside as a houseplant
during winter. In the house it does well with four hours of direct or
filtered sun daily. Keep the soil slightly moist, not soggy. When the
plant stops blooming and takes a winter rest, it requires less water. You
can prune it to a height of 6 inches at that time. Fertilize monthly. |
| |
|
| Q: |
Are you supposed to cut back
the flowers on Asters now or late? I have 4 different varieties
and this is the first year they blossomed. Now that the blooms are
dying, should I cut them back to the ground? J. M., Tacoma, WA;
10/3/06 |
| A: |
Aster frikartii 'Monch' is a tender
perennial that is more likely to survive winter when it is pruned in
spring after the danger of frost is past. A lightweight mulch (e.g.,
pine needles) should be place over the base of the plant after the
ground freezes.
New York Aster (Aster novi-belgii)
should be cut to the ground after it flowers.
|
| |
|
| Q: |
Have you ever heard of an old
wives tale stating you shouldn't transplant flowers in months with no
"R" in them? EX: May, June, July, August? K., 8/22/06 |
| A: |
I haven't heard the old wives tale.
However, transplanting in summer is not recommended. Due to hot
weather, plants with disturbed or damaged root systems can't absorb
sufficient water. This may have been the origin of the wives tale. |
| |
|
| Q: |
What perennial plants would grow
under trees? We already have a green plant (It's an ivy type of ground
cover) under the trees but would like to add a plant with some color?
M. J. C., Lakewood, 8/17/06 |
| A: |
Some perennials to grow in shade or part
shade include these:
Columbine (Aquilegia) - yellow,
purple, white flowers
Candytuft (Iberis sempervirens) -
white flowers
Primrose (Primula) - many bright
colors
For a really nice splash of color
considering using an annual such as impatiens or wax begonias.
|
| |
|
| Q: |
I live in Denver. I would like
to plant flowers and shrubs in my front yard. Can I plant throughout the
summer months? N. P., Denver, 7/6/06 |
| A: |
Try to avoid planting in hot summer
weather. It is better to plant perennials and shrubs in fall or spring. |
| |
|
| Q: |
Hi. I have been living in
Colorado Springs for nearly 25 years and have been fairly successful
gardening at this altitude; however, I have a flower bed that faces north
east or if you want exact, it faces east north east. The past 9 years I
have had no luck growing anything in this area. I have tried annuals,
perennials, bushes, etc. It receives 1.5 to 2 hours of afternoon sun. The
patch is 2 feet wide by 15 feet long. Could you give me any suggestions as
to what to plant in this area. I am open to bulbs, annuals, perennials, or
just about anything available. One note: This is below my front porch so
height needs to be taken into consideration. M. R., Colorado Springs,
6/18/06 |
| A: |
You didn't mention if the shady area
receives water from a sprinkler, soaker hose or drip system. Whatever
is planted there will need regular watering, especially the first season
it is planted. The following are plants that grow in shade.
Groundcovers: Bishop's Weed (Aegopodium
podagraria), Sweet Woodruff (Galium odoratum), Creeping Oregon Grape
Holly (Mahonia repens), Periwinkle (Vinca minor)
Perennials: Hosta, Spotted Dead Nettle (Lamium
maculatum)
Annuals: Impatiens, Coleus
|
| |
|
| Q: |
Can you please tell me if the
flowers should be cut off of wild daisies after replanting them? Thank you.
P. Y., Bridgeville, PA; 6/15/06 |
| A: |
Cutting off the flowers after
re-planting the daisies is a good idea. Removing the flowers will
allow the plant to use its energy to establish roots rather than seeds |
| |
|
| Q: |
What kind of perennials grow
best on the west side of a home? My house is in Westminster and my
flower beds only see sun after noon. If you could suggest flowers and
other plants I would really appreciate the advice. Everything I've
bought has died. A. R., Westminster, 6/14/06 |
| A: |
Because the plants will receive hot
afternoon sun, select only plants that say "full sun" on the label.
Amend the soil of the flower bed by mixing in compost. Water frequently
to keep the soil slightly moist, not soggy, while the roots become
established. You may need to water daily in hot weather like we've been
having. You should gradually reduce watering after a few weeks. Mulch
helps the soil to stay cool and retains moisture.
Some perennials for sunny sites include
Yarrow, Coreopsis, Coneflower (Echinacea), Joe-Pye Weed (Eupatorium),
Blanket Flower (Gaillardia), Daylily, Iris, Catmint (Nepeta), Russian
Sage (Perovskia), Penstemon, Black-eyed Susan, and Pincushion Flower (Scabiosa).
You may also want to use some shrub roses and flowering shrubs.
|
| |
|
| Q: |
Can you please tell me what it
means when the leaves turn yellow on my mandevilla? Am I watering
too much or not enough? They do get the hot afternoon sun.
B., 5/31/06 |
| A: |
A rule of thumb for determining if a
yellowing plant is getting too much or too little water is to observe
what part of the plant is yellowing. If a plant yellows from the outer
tips of the plant inward and from the top of the plant down the plant
needs more water. If the plant yellows from the inner part of the stems
to the outer part and from the bottom of the plant upward, the plant is
getting too much water. Often when we see a plant looking sick, the
first thing we do is to water it, which is the worse thing we can do if
it is already getting too much water! Do not keep the soil constantly
wet.
|
| |
|
| Q: |
I just bought double impatiens and
re-planted them in large whiskey barrels on my front east facing covered
porch. They get morning sun but by 11:00 a.m. they are in complete shade.
The day after I planted them they looked horrible. The leaves look weak and
spotty and the flowers appear to be dying. I fertilized them with the
granules that came with the plants and have watered them each day. What do
you recommend?
K. B., Fort Collins, 5/18/06 |
| A: |
When planting newly purchased
plants it is important to harden them off. For about one week set
plants in the area where they'll be planted for a few hours each day,
gradually increasing the number of hours. I suspect the plants were
accustomed to full shade and are in shock. If you can provide more
shade temporarily it may help.
You may be over-watering the plants.
The soil should be moist, not soggy. Too much water suffocates plants.
Unfortunately for gardeners, wilting can indicate too much water and
also too little water!
|
| |
|
| Q: |
I am having a problem with a
raised bed of blackeyed susans and daisies and have a question on this.
There were some small black bugs (really small) that were on them and we
used a bug spray to get rid of them, but there is this really weird fungus
that is light brown in color (tan) on the plants still. It seems like it is
smothering the plants (particularly the blackeyed susans). Do you have any
suggestions on how to completely rid this problem? A. B., Lafayette,
5/16/06 |
| A: |
If the plants in the raised bed have
a fungus you can spray them with a fungicide. Local garden centers
will carry it. Try to improve air circulation by thinning the
plants. Gather up any fallen leaves that could harbor disease
organisms and then re-infect plants.
|
| |
|
| Q: |
I have an area where I've been
growing wildflowers. Now lawn grass is growing there too. What is the
best way to get rid of it? M. J., Greeley, 4/11/06 |
| A: |
If you don't have lawn edging between the
lawn and the area for wildflowers I suggest you put some type of lawn edging
between them to help limit the spread of the lawn grass. There are
herbicides that kill grass; however, herbicides that kill lawn grasses are
also likely to kill some of the wildflowers that belong to the grass
family. Therefore, the herbicide would have to be applied very carefully to
only the lawn grass. |
| |
|
| Q: |
We just moved to Platteville,
Colorado, and I wanted to know if the shrub roses you buy at Wal-Mart
are a good choice for me to plant here. What is the best way to
plant them in my area? Also, are the miniature boxwood hedges a
good idea for this area? I love the English garden/cottage look.
Any advice and additional plantings to achieve this look would be
greatly appreciated. Thank you very much. A. G.,
Platteville, 3/29/06 |
| A: |
Shrub roses are a good choice. I'm not
sure just what varieties they sell at your Wal-Mart. Just be sure to
check the labels to see that they are suitable for USDA hardiness zone
5. You should wait to plant roses until mid-May unless you are buying
bareroot roses. Bareroot roses should be planted by mid-April. You
should amend the soil with compost before planting them. Be sure to
keep them watered well.
Boxwood hedges need a protected site
in part shade to perform well. I hesitate to recommend them.
Cottage gardens rely heavily on
perennials. Try to select some that bloom in spring, some that
bloom in summer and some for fall. For example,
Spring choices: Columbine,
Basket-of-Gold, Iris
Summer choices: Daylily, Purple
Coneflower
Fall: Asters, Autumn Joy Sedum.
You will probably want to use annuals to
fill in bare spots until the perennials mature. This fall try to
plant some bulbs such as daffodils, hyacinths and tulips for spring
bloom.
|
| |
|
| Q: |
I'm from back east and I LOVE hydrangeas - those big, fat
purple/blue ones especially. Can we grow them here? As perennials? Color?
Site?
Thank you so much for any advice you can give me! L. G.,
Denver, 2/5/06 |
| A: |
There are some hydrangeas
that grow in Colorado. Pee Gee Hydrangea (Hydrangea paniculata 'Grandiflora')
grows 4 - 6' tall and wide and has large white flowers. It takes
sun but prefers part shade and it likes regular watering. A smaller
shrub, Annabelle Hydrangea (H. arborescens 'Annabelle') grows 3 - 4'
high and wide. It also has white flowers and the same growing
requirements. Both should be planted with plenty of compost mixed
into the soil. Lacecap hydrangea (H. macrophylla coerulea) has blue
flowers in acid soil and pink flowers in alkaline soil. It blooms
on new wood; therefore, it should be pruned regularly. It will
be about 4' tall. It requires a protected planting site near a
building or other shrubs. |
| |
|
| Q: |
My sister is moving from
Virginia to Colorado. She now grows iris and lilacs from cuttings taken from
our family farm in Iowa. Will those perennials grow well near Lakewood?
Thanks for any information. M. H., Marshalltown, IA; 2/2/06 |
| A: |
Irises perform
very well in Colorado. Lilacs also do well
here, and because of the low humidity tend to
have fewer problems with mildew than in
Virginia. |
| |
|
| Q: |
What is the process for
winterizing a potted Martha Washington Geranium? I did bring it inside, but
it is getting leggy and yellow now. Can I cut shoots off and root them and
prune the main plant back now? Thank you for your help. P. K.,
Littleton, 1/17/06 |
| A: |
If the geranium is getting leggy it
isn't getting enough sunlight. Place it near a south or west facing
window where it will get plenty of bright light. Avoid over-watering
it. Allow the soil to dry out between waterings. You can cut off
shoots and root them and prune the plant back now if you wish. |
| |
|
| Q: |
Can Columbine be transplanted
to a different area successfully, and if so, what is the best time of
year and method? P. C., Beulah, 11/1/05
|
| A: |
You can dig up
and divide Columbines in the fall and plant them
in a new location at that time. Or, you can dig
up the plants in early spring when new growth
has emerged and re-plant them. They tend to
reseed, so you may have new seedlings in spring
that you can also transplant. |
| |
|
| Q: |
I was wondering if you could help
me out on the care of kalanchoes. I brought them inside for
the winter. They still have flowers blooming, but basically they are
starting to die off. What should I do when they all fall off?
I would like them to bloom next spring. Are these plants dangerous
to dogs? W. P., 10/24/05 |
| A: |
I suspect the
kalanchoes are having trouble adapting to
conditions inside, especially the reduction
in sunlight. Try to provide as much bright
light as possible. Kalanchoes are often
used as houseplants, so hopefully yours will
adjust and survive inside. Water them
regularly. You can prune the flowers
on the kalanchoes by pinching or snipping
them off near the base of the plant.
Kalanchoe is on the ASPCA's list of plants
that are toxic to pets. |
| |
|
| Q: |
What do I do to "winterize" Canna lilies? L. C., St.
Thomas, Ont; 10/5/05
|
| A: |
Canna lilies are not hardy. After the
foliage is killed by frost and has dried you
need to trim off the foliage to about 3" and
then dig up the bulbs. Allow the bulbs to
dry several hours. Store them in a cool,
dry place where they won't freeze. They can
be stored in mesh bags, old nylons or other
ventilated fabric or containers. Replant
the bulbs next spring after the danger of
frost is past. |
| |
|
| Q: |
After I dig up gladiolus bulbs do I
put them in burlap and hang them up in the basement? Do I have to keep them
moist during the winter? If there are two or three bulbs stuck together
can I separate them now or should I separate them before replanting in the
Spring? Thanks...They sure are pretty. W. R., Landisburg, PA;
9/30/05 |
| A: |
After you dig up the gladiolus bulbs,
clean off any excess dirt and spread the
bulbs out to dry in a single layer in a
ventilated tray for several weeks. After
the bulbs dry, trim off dried stalks and
roots and baby bulbs. Place the dry bulbs
in a burlap bag, old nylon stocking or paper
bag. Store the bulbs in a dry, cool area
(40 to 50 degrees) until spring. Do not
moisten them during winter. Keep the bulbs
dry so they don't mold or rot. You can
replant the bulbs in late spring after the
danger of frost is past. |
| |
|
| Q: |
I have 3 butterfly bushes that don't look that great. I know
some bugs got a hold of them this year. What kind of watering and
fertilizing do they like? How do I winterize them? Prune? Thank you
kindly. L. M., Englewood, 9/23/05 |
| A: |
Butterfly bushes (Buddleia) can adapt to limited watering but
perform best with regular watering, especially when the weather is
hot. Allow the soil to dry out between waterings. Fertilize the
bushes in spring with a fertilizer for flowering plants. Prune them
in early spring to about 6 - 12 inches high. To winterize them,
place a layer of mulch over the root zone after the ground freezes.
They are likely to die back to the ground in cold weather but will
sprout again in spring. |
| |
|
| Q: |
How do I care for bleeding hearts? They came with the house and
I'm not sure how to "over-winter" them. K. O., Aurora, 8/23/05
|
| A: |
Bleeding hearts (Dicentra) will die back
in winter. You can clip off dead foliage
when it dies or wait until early spring.
Once the ground freezes, cover the plants
with a layer of mulch about four inches high
to prevent them from heaving during our
freeze/thaw cycles. |
| |
|
| Q: |
What flowers will grow well in
a low sunlight environment such as an office? J. H., Lincoln, NE;
8/12/05
|
| A: |
Some flowering plants
that do well indoors include Peace Lily (Spathiphyllum),
Christmas Cactus (Schlumbergera), African Violets, and
Cyclamen. You can use azaleas, miniature roses, mums,
begonias and other plants usually grown outdoors, but
eventually they will cease blooming due to the low level
of light. |
| |
|
| Q: |
What is the proper way to care
for our Coral Belle and Clematis vine? K. O., Aurora, 8/6/05
|
| A: |
Coral Bells
(Heuchera sanguinea) grow in full sun or
partial shade. They prefer regular
watering. Deadheading encourages continued
flowers. Plants will need dividing after 4
or 5 years. Keep plants mulched to retain
moisture in summer and to prevent heaving in
winter.
Clematis
likes to grow in the sun, but prefers to
have its roots shaded. A thick layer of
mulch should be placed over the roots. They
like moist (not soggy) soil. Deadhead to
encourage continued flowering. Pruning
method depends on the type of clematis.
Spring blooming varieties that flower on the
previous year's growth are pruned right
after they flower. Summer and fall blooming
varieties are pruned in early spring.
|
| |
|
| Q: |
I live in Northern Virginia and
have vincas planted in a new area of landscaping. The leaves are turning
very yellow; however, the plants themselves seem very healthy. Might this
be soil or nutrient related? Thanks in advance for your help! J. P.,
South Riding, VA; 7/31/05 |
| A: |
Yellowing leaves can be a
sign of too much water or too little water. Poor
drainage can also be a factor. Monitor the moisture
level of the soil to see if this is the problem. Soil
needs to dry out slightly between waterings or plant
roots won't get enough oxygen. If the veins of the
leaves are green, poor absorption of iron (iron
chlorosis) may be the problem and adding chelated iron
may help. |
| |
|
| Q: |
I live in Farmington, Utah, and have planted some Russian
sage. The leaves are starting to turn yellow and fall off, even though I am
watering daily with all the hot weather. They get full sun for a good
part of the day. Does this mean I am not watering enough? They still have
some purple flowering on them, so does that mean that they are still alive?
Should I put mulch down? Thanks for any help you can give. A. C.,
Farmington, UT; 7/11/05 |
| A: |
You should reduce the frequency of
watering. Build a basin around each plant,
fill it with water, and let the soil dry out
so that it is only slightly moist before
watering again. Too much water will
suffocate the plants. Mulch is a good
idea. It will help prevent evaporation.
Once established, Russian sage requires
little water. |
| |
|
| Q: |
Hi, after this last hail storm I am thinking about
changing some of the plants that I had in a shade garden. I love my
hostas but the hail just tears them up. What are some good perennials
for shade that will hold up when bombarded by hail? I would
love to have a mossy forest type garden. Appreciate any help you can
offer. Thanks, B., Colorado Springs, 6/23/05 |
| A: |
As you have discovered, plants with large leaves do not fare
well in hail storms. The following plants for shade (Sh) or partial
shade (PS) should do better than the hostas.
Monkshood (Aconitum) - PS, Sh
Aster - PS
Columbine (Aquilegia) - PS
Bergenia - PS, Sh
Bellflower (Campanula) - PS
Corydalis (Corydalis lutea) - PS
Tickseed (Coreopsis) - PS
Hellebore (Helleborus) - PS, Sh
Balloon Flower (Platycodon grandiflorus) - PS
Jacob's Ladder (Polemonium) - PS, Sh
Pasque Flower (Pulsatilla) - PS
Pincushion Flower (Scabiosa) - PS
|
| |
|
| Q: |
I have/had a beautiful bed of
petunias. I just noticed that something is chewing the petals. I
have looked and looked and can only see tiny black residue that does not
look like insects on the leaves. I have examined the plants during the
day and in the evening and can find nothing. I was told by an employee
of a nursery that the insect responsible for the destruction is in fact the
tiny black "residue" that I see on the leaves. Please advise. K.
C., Wilmington, DE; 6/16/05 |
| A: |
I suspect the black specks on your petunias are not bugs,
but the droppings of geranium budworms.
The geranium budworm attacks
geraniums, petunias, nicotianas and several other flowers. The
caterpillars tunnel into the flower buds where you can't see
them and they are hard to reach with pesticides. The budworms
are most active at dusk, so that is a good time to spray or pick
them off of the plants. You can try to control them by removing
buds that show signs of damage and spraying with Bt or
insecticides containing pyrethrin or carbaryl. |
| |
|
| Q: |
I recently bought a fuchsia
basket and put it in part sun. It is dying and I am not sure why. Can it
not handle the strong Colorado sun? Should it be in full shade?
Thanks, S. D., Centennial, 5/25/05 |
| A: |
The fuchsia should be put in a
shady location. Our intense Colorado sun will be too strong. A
bit of morning sun might be acceptable, but definitely no mid-day or
afternoon sun. Mist the plant daily if you can. Fuchsias like higher humidity than we have here.
Keep the soil slightly moist. |
| |
|
| Q: |
When planting annual plants in
pots on a patio:
1. Can you mix different type of plants in the same pot
(e.g. Geraniums, Sonic Lilacs and Marigolds)?
2. How many plants should be planted in each pot (e.g.
how many Geraniums in a 11 inch diameter pot, 15 inch pot, 21 inch pot)?
J. G., Oceanport, NJ; 5/23/05 |
| A: |
Yes, you can mix different
types of plants in the same pot so long as the plants have the same sunlight
and water requirements. (Don't put plants that need full sun and
plants that require shade in the same pot. Also, don't put plants that
like moist soil with ones that prefer drier soil.) The number of
plants used in the container depends on the size of the plants.
Disregard the label instructions on spacing between plants -- that applies
to planting them in the ground. Plants in containers are packed
closely together. |
| |
|
| Q: |
I was wondering if you could
suggest some brightly colored annuals for part sun- from about 3 onward to
sunset- and it gets hot! Thanks for your help.
J. M., Denver, 5/19/05 |
| A: |
Because of the hot,
intense sunlight in Colorado, I've listed plants that do well in
full sun as well as part shade:
Ageratum (Ageratum
houstonianum)
Periwinkle (Catharanthus
roseus)
China Pinks
(Dianthus chinensis)
Lantana (Lantana
camara)
Lobelia (Lobelia
erinus)
Nemesia (Nemesia
strumosa)
Flowering Tobacco (Nicotiana)
Petunia
|
| |
|
| Q: |
Can you send me some info on
impatiens -- what kind of sun, how often to water, etc. Thanks, W. B.,
Kennard, IN; 5/9/05 |
| A: |
Impatiens
(Impatiens walleriana) is one of the best annuals for shade or partial
shade. If plants become leggy, pinch or cut them back.
Water them regularly, allowing the soil to dry out slightly
between waterings. They don't like dry soil or soggy soil.
Fertilize them lightly with a fertilizer designated for use
on flowering plants or use a slow-release granular
fertilizer for flowers when you plant them. |
| |
|
| Q: |
What flowers can grow in
direct, full sunlight, very dry soil and next to a cement sidewalk? P.
S., Kenmore, NY; 4/8/05 |
| A: |
Some flowers that
like sun and tolerate dry conditions and heat include Cosmos, Lantana,
Petunia, Verbena and Zinnia. These plants require regular watering
while they become established and then you can reduce the amount of water. |
| |
|
| Q: |
It's early April, and all my
perennials are rapidly leafing out. Is it too early to subdivide and
transplant established perennials? I have a couple of yarrows that need to
be moved. Thank you! P., Masonville, 4/2/05 |
| A: |
Spring is a good time to divide
and/or transplant perennials. You can do these tasks as soon as
the ground no longer is frozen. |
| |
|
| Q:
|
I just found this site and it's
now in my favorites. Thank you and I look forward to much help from you.
We are planting a vegetable garden, for the 1st time in Colorado (Littleton)
and I need to know if there is a guide so that I know what to plant when?
I would also like to start vegetables and flowers from seed, inside. Would
there also be a guide for me to use and helps with doing this? Thanks,
J. S., Littleton, 3/13/05 |
| A: |
I found two articles that I
think you will find helpful. Please see "Growing Plants from Seed" at
www.ext.colostate.edu/pubs/garden/07409.html. Although this
article begins by describing the construction and use of a cold frame it
eventually provides information on starting plants indoors from seed.
You might also like to read "Vegetable Garden Hints" at
www.cmg.colostate.edu/cmg-factsheets/veg/v18-hints.pdf.
Planting directions often refer to the average frost-free date. In your
area that date is around Mother's Day. If you have additional questions
after reading these articles, I would be happy to track down more
information for you. Good luck with your garden. |
| |
|
| Q:
|
What plants (vegetables and
flowers) grow best in Bailey, Colorado? C. H., Bailey, 3/7/05
|
| A: |
With an elevation over 9500
feet, vegetable choices are somewhat limited. Vegetables that
prefer cool weather are best, such as peas, carrots, radishes,
lettuce, spinach and green onions.
There are a number of flowers that
grow at high elevations. For growing tips and a list of these
please see
http://www.ext.colostate.edu/. Click on "Horticulture."
Click on "Fact Sheets." Click on "Flowers." Click on # 7.406
"Flowers for Mountain Communities."
You might consider using flowering
shrubs in your yard. Some hardy shrubs for high elevations include
Lilac (Syringa vulgaris), Persian Lilac (Syringa persica),
Cinquefoil (Potentilla fruticosa), Siberian Peashrub (Caragana
arborescens) and Jamesia (Jamesia americana).
|
| |
|
| Q:
|
I have a very dry, hard flower
bed encircling my mailbox post. It's maybe 1 1/2 feet long by 1 foot wide.
It's edged on two sides by concrete. Full sun, all day. What should I
plant in it? Also, I have a bed that is on the east side of my home.
It's 7 feet long and 3 feet wide. It currently has 3 rose bushes, 1 mini
rose, some irises, grape hyacinths, a few tulips and creeping phlox. I want
to get rid of the hyacinths, irises, and phlox. Any recommendations? What
is a good groundcover for under roses? I live in Ft. Collins. Thank you!
D., Ft. Collins, 3/7/05 |
| A: |
The small area by
your mailbox would be a suitable spot for these annuals
that like a sunny, dry site: Cosmos (Cosmos bipinnatus),
Lantana, Petunia, Verbena and Zinnia (Zinnia
angustifolia). Some perennials to consider include
Blanket Flower (Gaillardia), Evening Primrose (Oenothera),
and Hens and Chicks (Sempervivum). Be sure to add
compost to improve the soil before planting. Also, you
will need to water the plants regularly until they get
established.
Some groundcovers for
the bed on the east side of the house include Plumbago (Ceratostigma
plumbaginoides) -- bronze foliage with blue flowers in
late summer, Creeping baby's breath (Gypsophila repens)
-- white or pink flowers, Candytuft (Iberis sempervirens)
-- white flowers, several varieties of Thyme (Thymus) --
white or pinkish flowers, and several types of Veronica
-- purple flowers.
|
| |
|
| Q:
|
I live in Colorado Springs and
am new to gardening. Since I have large evergreens on the south side of my
yard, much of it is in the shade or part shade. I also love the idea of
flowers in the winter. Will Helleborus grow in my area? If not, can you
recommend something that will keep winter interest? A. D., Colorado
Springs, 2/25/05
|
| A: |
Helleborus will grow in your
area. However, keep in mind that all parts of the plant are
poisonous. Other plants that will bloom off and on during
winter are pansies and violas. Some bulbs that will provide
color in partial shade by February or March include these:
Glory of the Snow (Chinodoxa)
Snowdrop (Galanthus)
Grape Hyacinth (Muscari)
Puschkinia (P. scilloides)
Winter aconite (Eranthis)
Siberian squill (Scilla
siberica)
Grecian Windflower (Anemone
blanda)
Tommies (Crocus
tommasinianus).
|
| |
|
| Q:
|
I live at 7800 feet altitude
in zone 4-5, five miles from Evergreen, Colorado. WHEN can I plant
bare-root plants from the chain stores. Today (2-18-2005) I purchased
some bare-root packaged peonies, bleeding hearts, clematis. How should
I store them until planting time? I have an unheated small barn that
stays about 38-40 degrees and is dark. Although I have been successful
potting up roses and growing them indoors it is a lot of trouble.
Thanks! P. H., Evergreen, 2/18/05 |
| A: |
Store the bare-root plants in a
cool, dark place where they won't freeze. Due to the short growing
season in the mountains, it would be a good idea to give the plants a head
start by potting them up. If the varieties you bought are hardy you
can plant them once the ground isn't frozen in May or June. Be sure to
harden them off before planting them outside. |
| |
|
| Q:
|
I'm having a hard time finding bright flowers and herbs
(i.e.: dill, lavender, etc..) that are good for box-planting on our balcony.
The balcony faces east and gets all of that bright intense morning sun, but
then has shade the rest of the day. Is there a specific watering
routine that we should adopt because of the location? R. L., Aurora,
2/11/05
|
| A:
|
Because the containers on your balcony receive only
morning sun, plants that perform well in partial shade are a good choice.
Impatiens, pansy, lobelia, wax begonia, coleus and geranium (Pelargonium)
should do well. Plants that require full sun (marigolds, zinnias,
petunias, etc.) won't flower well. Most herbs, except for mint, prefer full sun. Don't over-fertilize the plants or
you'll get lots of leaves and few flowers. Most
shade-loving plants like soil that is slightly moist, but not
soggy.
|
| |
|
| Q:
|
"Some bulbs don't have to
be planted in potting soil. Instead, they will grow in water. To
grow paper-whites (Narcissus tazetta) in water, fill a shallow bowl about
2/3 full with pebbles or marbles..." How long will it take to
first see roots and then shoots (this is for my son's science experiment)
when grown just in water? T. D., 1/10/05
|
| A:
|
Paperwhites planted
in water should root within a couple of days and flower in about 3
to 5 weeks.
|
|
|
|
| Q:
|
I am wondering if I need to
winterize my spikes, daisies and small shrubs. Should I cut them back
now or wait until spring? We live in Parker, CO. B. S., Parker,
11/06/04
|
| A:
|
Here are a few tips
regarding winterizing your plants. Place a layer of mulch
around your plants once the ground freezes. This will protect
them during freeze/thaw cycles. Water the plants once or twice
a month if there is little or no snow and the ground isn't frozen.
You can wait until spring to cut back perennials and prune shrubs.
Flowering shrubs are usually pruned right after they complete
blooming.
|
|
|
|
| Q:
|
How do I keep my lavender over
the winter? I have them in planters. Should I trim them
all down and place them in a cool place? Do I keep watering them?
J. T., Dowagiac, MI; 11/05/04
|
| A:
|
To keep the lavender
plants compact you should trim them back by one third to one half.
They can be placed indoors in a sunny spot during winter.
Water them periodically, allowing the soil to dry out slightly
between waterings. They do not like soggy soil.
|
|
|
|
| Q:
|
What causes Impatiens to get
leggy? Is this a virus? If so, can anything be done about it.
Thank you. M. R., Columbus, OH; 10/4/04
|
| A:
|
Some plants just
naturally tend to be leggy. Others become leggy when they do
not get enough sunlight. When buying plants look for a term
like "compact" on the label, which indicates that the
plant doesn't tend to be leggy. The best way to deal with
leggy plants is to pinch them back regularly.
|
|
|
|
| Q:
|
I have several Blue and White Clips Campanula and really like them except as soon as they get nice and big
they separate in the center and sprawl out leaving a large bare center with
just the bare stems showing. I can't find out any information about pruning
them or dividing them so they keep looking attractive. Any suggestions would
be appreciated. Thanks, L. A., Soda Springs, ID; 9/20/04
|
| A:
|
Blue Clips and
White Clips Campanula die out in the center as they age.
Shear plants after they bloom to encourage compact growth.
Plants should be divided every three years.
|
|
|
|
| Q:
|
I live in Littleton and I have a
spot that has full sun until mid-afternoon and then it is shaded by a tree
the rest of the day. It also receives lots of water from the run off
of rain. Roses are doing fine there, but the mums die from too much
water. What perennial flower could grow there? Thanks. J.
P., Littleton, 9/7/04
|
| A:
|
Some perennials that
like moister conditions include these:
Sweet William (Dianthus barbatus)
Joe Pye Weed (Eupatorium)
Cranesbill (Geranium)
Whirling Butterflies (Gaura lindheimeri)
Coralbells (Heuchera)
Siberian Iris (Iris siberica)
Gay Feather (Liatris)
Lupine
Bee Balm (Monarda)
|
|
|
|
| Q:
|
I have some Shasta daisies.
I wonder how to care for them, and when and what do I do to winterize them?
B., Denver, 8/19/04
|
| A:
|
Shasta
Daisies like moist, well-drained soil. They grow in
full sun or part shade. Fertilize them in spring prior
to bloom and again while they are blooming. Deadhead
spent flowers to encourage plants to keep blooming.
Pinching keeps plants compact. You will need to divide
the plants in spring every two or three years. When
the plants die back in fall you can trim them at almost
ground level. After the ground freezes spread a layer
of mulch over the soil.
|
|
|
|
| Q:
|
I have petunias in hanging
baskets and want to know the correct way to deadhead them. When I just
pull out the dead flowers the ends seem to go to seed instead of making a
new flower. Should I be cutting off the whole flower end and adjoining
stems? L. P., Anna, IL; 8/19/04
|
| A:
|
Yes, you should
pinch off dead petunia blossoms, being sure to include the
whole flower end so that the plants don't form seedpods. The
petals pull off easily. However, removing just the
petals doesn't prevent seed formation.
|
|
|
|
| Q:
|
Hi, I am new to
Gladiola. After the bloom, there is some kind of pod growing where the
bloom was. Is this something I should keep or is there something I should do?
Thanks in advance for your answer.
L. H., St. Louis, MO, 7/25/04
|
| A:
|
When the gladiolus
flowers fade, cut off the stems below the lowest bloom. Uncut
stems develop seed pods that divert energy from the corm.
Therefore, you should try to trim the stems before the pods form.
Once the foliage yellows completely, dig up the corms. Dry them
in a dark, dry area for a couple of weeks. Then store them until
spring in a cool spot where they won't freeze.
|
|
|
|
| Q:
|
What type of flowers can I plant
in the front of the house that has direct sunlight all day long. I.
T., Englewood, N. J.; 7/19/04
|
| A:
|
Some sun-loving
perennials include Echinacea, Daylily, Iris, Lupine, Bee Balm,
Catmint, and Scabiosa. These will die back in winter and come
back again next year.
Some annuals that do
well in full sun include Petunia, Periwinkle (Catharanthus), Marigold,
Zinnia, Cleome, Cosmos, Geranium (Pelargonium), Moss Rose (Portulaca),
and Snapdragon. Annuals tend to bloom much longer than
perennials, but they will not come back next year unless they happen
to self-sow.
|
|
|
|
| Q:
|
I need some advice on
deadheading my Stella D'Oro Daylily and Rocky Mtn Penstemon.
I typically pull off the spent flowers from the Stella's, but have noticed
if I don't get to them in time they've formed a seed pod. To promote
additional blooms, should I cut off the seedpod at the base of the
stem? Also, my Penstemon was glorious this year, but I know you can
cut it back to promote another flowering, do I cut the entire flower stalk
back to the base?
Thank you for all your help! C. F., Erie, 7/8/04
|
| A:
|
To promote continued
blooming you should cut off the Daylily seed pods that have formed
as soon as possible. Ideally, it is better to remove spent
flowers to prevent seeds from forming, but few gardeners have time
to do this daily. Cut the seedpod at the base of the stem.
Regarding Penstemons,
you can cut off stalks that bloomed at the base. This will
encourage new shoots to form, and possibly a second blooming.
You want to direct the energy of the plant into new shoots that will
help it survive winter, rather than seed production.
|
|
|
|
| Q:
|
We recently were hit by hail and
my Impatiens were pretty beat up. Will they regenerate? E. B.,
6/2/04
|
| A:
|
To salvage what you can of
the Impatiens, trim off the damaged parts of the plants.
Fertilize them lightly and keep them well watered for the next couple
of weeks. Hopefully they will recuperate. You may want to
read the article "Gardening in Hail Country" on our website.
|
|
|
|
| Q:
|
Could I transplant full grown
and healthy hostas now? D. P., Montreal, Canada; 6/10/04
|
| A:
|
As hot summer weather
approaches, it is better to postpone transplanting. Because the
root system of a plant is usually damaged when it is transplanted, it is
difficult for the remaining roots to absorb enough water to support the
plant. In hot weather a plant's water needs increase.
Transplanting at that time puts the plant at risk.
|
|
|
|
| Q:
|
I would like to plant a
flowering climbing vine on the south side of my home near the foundation
(wall area is as high as 20 feet). Very hot and sunny wall, poor soil
(clay), no direct irrigation system but gets overspray. Willing to build
trellis support. Near walkway, so prefer something that doesn't attract lots
of bees (especially since I have two small children)!! Any suggestions?
J. L., Littleton, 4/29/04
|
| A:
|
Any flowering vine is likely to
attract bees, unfortunately. You may want to reconsider placing a
flowering vine beside a walkway.
A vine that is very drought
tolerant and a fast grower is Silver Lace Vine. It has lots of
white flowers in late summer and needs a trellis for support.
Because it flowers on new wood it should be pruned in early spring.
Trumpet Vine (Campsis radicans)
is also a good choice for a sunny, dry spot. It will attach itself
to the wall or a trellis. It has orange, trumpet-shaped flowers.
|
|
|
|
| Q:
|
I am wanting to buy some bright,
colorful flowers and transfer them into my medium sized pots in a full sun
area and I am not sure what kinds of flowers do well in sunny Colorado
weather or do well after being replanted. Also, can I reuse the soil
that is already in the pots from years past or do I need to empty the old
and refill my pots with new soil? P.S. I love your web site!! It
is so helpful!! K. M., Parker, 5/9/04
|
| A:
|
If you had geraniums,
petunias or nicotianas in the pots previously you would be wise to
replace the soil in the pots. Tobacco budworms over-winter in
the soil as eggs. Otherwise, you can reuse the soil. You
might want to take out a portion of it and replace it with new potting
soil. Be sure to mix it in well with the old soil.
Because you have medium
sized pots that will be in full sun you will have to water them often,
possibly daily, when the weather is hot. The following can
tolerate sun and heat:
Calibrachoa, Periwinkle/Vinca (Catharanthus
roseus), Lantana, Pentas, Portulaca, Scaevola, and Verbena.
|
|
|
|
| Q:
|
Like many others maybe (with the
weather)....when can I transplant irises and ornamental grasses I planted
last spring. They are about 6 inches high already. They will be
going to a spot that is as or warmer than the current spot. I also
would put a good layer of mulch on them.
Any general rules for other perennials that may be coming up?
R. B., Denver, 3/22/04
|
| A:
|
It is best to transplant
irises in July or August. However, you should transplant
ornamental grasses in spring. Now is fine. Most perennials
can be transplanted in early spring when new foliage is about two inches
high, or they can be moved in early fall when their foliage begins to
look shabby.
|
|
|
|
| Q:
|
We're having a Luau wedding
reception in our back yard on 7/17/04 and I'm wondering if you could give me
any suggestions for bedding plants that would be in bloom at that time.
We have Day Lilies and are planning on Impatients for shady spots and
petunias in pots. Do you have any other suggestions? Thanks so
much for your help! P. M., Littleton, 2/19/04
|
| A:
|
The following is a list of
annuals that should be in bloom in July:
Bacopa (Sutera
cordata) - trailing plant with small white or lavender flowers, use
in pots or beds
Calibricoa 'Lyrica
Showers' - also called 'Million Bells,' trailing plants, good in
pots, covered with tons of small petunia-like flowers
Cosmos (Cosmos
bipinnatus) - a taller plant, use in beds, many colors
Godetia - use in pots
or beds, several pastel colors
Lobelia - plants are
covered with blue, lavender or white flowers; use trailing varieties
in pots and more upright ones in beds, does best in part shade
Marigold (Tagetes) -
use in pots or beds, yellow and gold flowers
Pelargoniums -
commonly called geraniums, use in pots, many colors
Scaevola - trailing
plant, use in pots or beds, lavender and purple flowers
Verbena - many vivid
and pastel colors, use in pots or beds
I would avoid planting
pansies, violas and snapdragons. They do not like heat and slow down
production of flowers if the weather is hot.
|
|
|
|
| Q:
|
I'd like information on growing
edible flowers and herbs in a town home setting and planter pots. I cook
lots of Mediterranean dishes and want to use more edible flowers. I'm hoping
you can provide information on where to purchase seeds or plants to get
started. Thank you. A. P., Arvada, 1/21/04
|
| A:
|
To purchase seeds or plants
for an herb and edible flower garden please visit one of these garden
centers in Arvada. Echter's Garden Center is located at 5150
Garrison St., phone number 303-424-7979. Timberline Gardens is
located at 11700 W. 58 St., phone number 303-420-4060. Both places
have trained staff that can assist you.
It would be better to
purchase seeds rather than plants of the flowers that you want to use for
food. Ornamental flowers may have been treated with pesticides,
making them unsuitable for eating. Either plants or seeds are
fine for the herbs. Select good sized containers for your
planter pots. Larger containers will require less frequent watering.
You should also purchase a good quality potting soil to use in the
containers.
An excellent resource that
you might like to see is the CSU Cooperative Extension fact sheet on
edible flowers. Please go to www.ext.colostate.edu.
Click on "Gardening." Click on "Fact sheets."
Click on "Flowers." Click on # 7.237 "Edible
Flowers." They also have one on herbs. Follow the same
steps, but instead of clicking on flowers, click on "Fruits &
Vegetables." Then click on # 9.335 "Growing, Preserving
and Using Herbs."
|
|
|
|
| Q:
|
I have potted some paperwhites in soil. While they have
all sprouted, only one has bloomed. All the other ones seem to be
stunted. Is there anything that I can do to encourage the others to
bloom? R., 11/17/03
|
| A:
|
Paperwhites generally bloom five to seven weeks after being planted.
They should be kept in a cool location (around 50 degrees F) until the
blooms are ready to open. They can then be moved to a warmer
location. Avoid direct sunlight. Keep the soil slightly moist,
not wet.
|
|
|
|
| Q:
|
I'm moving from a home in Denver
to a home in Lakewood later this month (December 20) and I want to take at
least part of my garden with me--some of my perennials, including roses,
irises, peonies, and clematis. Would you provide some tips on the best way
to do this at this time of year? Should I put things directly into the
ground at the new site or pot them up until spring? Any advice would be
helpful! Thank you. R., Denver, 11/23/03
|
| A:
|
Because roses and perennials are
dormant at this time of the year, you hopefully will have
success transplanting them. To prepare the plants for transplanting,
water them well one or two days before you dig them up. Prune back
the foliage of the perennials to four to six inches above the ground and
cut back the canes of the rose bushes to about 10 inches. Next,
using a spading fork if possible, dig up the plants. Trim any broken
or damaged roots. Pot the plants in containers using a good quality
potting soil and water them thoroughly. If you wish, you can keep
the plants in the containers until early spring. Place them where
they won't freeze, and keep the potting soil slightly moist, not wet.
Or, you can plant them in the ground if the ground hasn't frozen yet.
If you decide to plant them in the ground you need to plant them
immediately so the roots can become established before the ground freezes.
Water the plants thoroughly when you plant them and water them
periodically during the winter when the ground isn't frozen. The
plants will lack a fully developed root system and, therefore, will
need extra water. Place a layer of mulch several inches thick over
the plants. Good luck with your new garden!
|
|
|
|
| Q:
|
How do I do a container garden
for tulips? I had seen the idea in a magazine and wanted to be sure
that it would work in CO before I did it. Will the bulbs freeze too
hard in a container over the winter? Or, will they start growing too
early in the year when it starts to warm in the early spring? Please
help. B. P., Lakewood, 9/26/03
|
| A:
|
You can plant tulips in a
container, but you'll need to protect them and the container from freezing
temperatures. Begin by selecting a container that has drainage
holes. Bulbs will rot in soil that doesn't drain well. Place a
piece of landscape (weed barrier) fabric or pebbles over the holes to
prevent the soil from washing out. Fill the container at least half
full with potting soil. Place the bulbs on top of the soil, pointed
end up. The flat side of the tulip bulbs should be placed
facing out. You can position the bulbs close together, but they
shouldn't touch. Fill the rest of the container with potting soil
and water it thoroughly. Keep the soil slightly moist, not wet.
Store the container someplace cool, such as in an unheated garage, where
the temperature is between 35 - 45 degrees. If the container must
remain outside you will need to protect the bulbs from freezing.
Cover the soil with several inches of insulating material; for example,
straw, bagged leaves, styrofoam pellets, or newspaper. Also, wrap
the container with something to insulate it. In mid spring, stored
containers can be set out and insulation removed from containers left
outdoors. Be prepared to come to the rescue if there is a forecast
of freezing temperatures.
|
|
|
|
| Q:
|
I have purchased a plant from
the fuchsia family. It is named SENDENS. It was large, and when I bought it
this spring I cut it back. I have a large amount of green growth but, No
Flowers. Any help? S. G., Victoria, 8/26/03
|
| A:
|
I have not found any information on
the plant named Sendens. Information that I have on fuchsias indicate that
they bloom on new wood. Therefore, pruning should be done before
spring growth begins. Plants should receive morning sun or day-long
filtered shade. Plants won't bloom if they get too much shade.
Keep the soil moist and mist the plant when the weather is hot and dry.
Plants in containers need to be fertilized regularly because frequent
watering washes out nutrients in the soil. Use a fertilizer for
flowering plants. Fertilizers high in nitrogen promote leafy growth
and can limit flower production.
|
|
|
|
| Q:
|
I live in Colorado Springs and I
have tried to grow delphiniums for 3 years now. Every year I get the
same result: the plant grows a little, dies almost completely back,
then produces new shoots again. This cycle repeats over and over all
summer until they finally wither away completely in late summer. What
am I doing wrong? A. M., Colorado Springs, 9/6/03
|
| A:
|
It is difficult to identify what is
unfavorable in the growing environment of the delphiniums based on the
information provided. It could be the soil, light, water, fertilizer,
or other factors. They require full sun. They prefer rich,
porous soil and will perform poorly in heavy clay soil. Clay or sandy
soil should be amended with compost. Delphiniums need regular
fertilizing. Be sure to follow label directions. Too much is
worse than too little and can result in fertilizer burn. (The symptoms
sound a bit like this.) The root crown should not be covered with
soil. Plants should be watered regularly.
|
|
|
|
| Q:
|
1. Can you plant Chrysanthemums under
or near walnut trees?
2. When and how to divide purple cone-flowers, black-eyed susans, Russian
sage? S. B., Union Grove, WI; 8/13/03
|
| A:
|
Yes, you can plant chrysanthemums
under or near walnut trees. While many plants will not survive when
planted by walnut trees, this flower is one that does well.
A sign that a perennial needs dividing is the center dies
out. Many perennials need to be divided every 3 or 4 years. Lift
out the plant with a pitch fork. Separate the clump into sections with
a sharp knife. Throw away the unhealthy sections from the center of
the plant. Amend the soil in the hole with compost before replanting
one of the sections there. The remaining healthy sections should be
planted in other spots. Water them thoroughly and keep them
well-watered while they become established. Divide Purple Coneflower
and Black-eyed Susan in spring. Instead of dividing Russian Sage, try
keeping it compact by cutting it back in the spring when the leaves first
emerge.
|
|
|
|
| Q:
|
I live in zone 7, Western North Carolina, new resident.
I planted
zinnias from seed in late March and reseeded in early mid-April. We
had a late frost in early April which is why I reseeded. I have not
touched them since. In articles I have read, they talk about root
rot, and not planting too close. Since I did not understand what I
was doing I have not touched them since except to weed. I am now
seeing blooms, but they appear rather small compared to what I am used to
seeing with zinnias. I do not know anything about
"pinching" the leaf of the seedling off as per some directions
nor do I understand what it means to "clip" them. I feel
pretty fortunate since this is my first time planting them from seed but feel as if I am
not doing something correctly. I planted a range of types including
Thumbelina, Whirligig, State Fair, Giant Double, and Lilliput. I am
seeing lots of buds but as they bloom, the bloom is not very large, and
the plants are very tall and stalky. They are in an excellent plot
with plenty of sun and I have not watered them; only the rain has, which
has been unusually plentiful here this spring. I am a novice at
this so I would appreciate any assistance in helping to develop the best
blooms. Also, what does "root rot" look like? Thanks
so much for the assistance as I have loved zinnias for a very long time
but have never grown them myself. M. L., Sylva, N. C.; 6/25/03
|
| A:
|
There are some steps you should take to improve the tall, stalky zinnias.
1) Thin the plants. Pull out
some of the plants so that the remaining ones are about 10 inches apart.
Thinning allows plants to grow larger and healthier.
2) Pinch off the tips of the plants.
Use scissors or your fingers to snap off a small portion of the shoots
back to a set of leaves. This will encourage the plant to produce
more leaves and branches, resulting in bushy, sturdy plants.
3) Water if the weather is dry.
Water early in the morning so leaves will dry during the day. Avoid
watering in the evening because the leaves will stay damp during the
night. This can lead to problems with diseases.
4) Fertilize the plants with a
product made for flowering plants.
Zinnias perform best when the weather is hot. They should do better
in July and August.
Root rot may cause plants to wilt, even if they are getting
plenty of water. If you pull up the plant you are likely to see
black, mushy roots. This condition is caused by disease organisms in
the soil. Over-watering promotes it.
|
|
|
|
| Q:
|
I want to hang some flowers on
my front porch this spring/summer (in hanging pots) but my porch is shaded
all day long. What type of flowers should I purchase that can
handled the shade, be full & colorful? Thank you. D. P.,
Cincinnati, OH; 4/28/03
|
| A:
|
The following are some plants
that should do well in hanging pots in the shade:
Tuberous Begonia
Wax Begonia (Begonia semperflorens)
Busy Lizzie/ Impatiens (Impatiens
walleriana)
Lobelia (Lobelia erinus)
Wishbone Flower/Torenia (Torenia
fournieri)
Monkey Flower (Mimulus)
Fushia
|
|
|
|
| Q:
|
When is the last average frost date in
Denver? When can I plant my annual
seeds? And when is it safe to plant my dahlia tubers? Thanks so much.
M. S., Denver, 4/13/03
|
| A:
|
To be 80% confident that there will be no more frosts, use May 12th as the
last spring frost date for Denver. For 90% confidence, use May 18th.
You can plant frost-tender annuals and summer flowering bulbs, including
dahlia tubers, at that time.
|
|
|
|
| Q:
|
I live in Aurora, CO. I have a large planter on my patio with a trellis
for vining flowers. What type of vining flowers would you recommend for
this? I used morning glories last year, but I'd like to have flowers
blooming more often. I also tried moon flowers, but they never blossomed!
T. S., Aurora, 3/23/03
|
| A:
|
Several types of Honeysuckle (Lonicera) should perform well on a trellis.
Trumpet Vine (Campsis radicans) is another good choice. An annual
you might consider is Sweet Pea (Lathyrus odoratus).
|
|
|
|
| Q:
|
I'm writing a paper on Papaver dubium and would like to know if it's
considered a noxious weed in Colorado. Would this plant be harmful
if it started growing in an open space? If so, why? What is the best way to find internet information on plants and plant
protocols? S. K., Louisville, 3/9/03
|
| A:
|
Papaver dubium is not on the list of noxious weeds in Colorado. A
plant is considered a noxious weed if it is invasive, detrimental to crops
and native plants, poisonous to livestock, or is a carrier of insects,
diseases or parasites. Information that I found on this plant
indicates it could become a noxious weed. It is not a native plant,
but was introduced in the U.S.; it is poisonous, it self-sows
prolifically, and grows readily. It has been named as a noxious
plant in Tennessee.
For a list of noxious plants in
Colorado please see the State of Colorado Dept. of |
