| Q: |
I planted 25 Winona Giant
Junebearing strawberries 5 years ago here in Colorado Springs. The 1st year,
as expected, I saw few berries but many runners. The 2nd and 3rd years had
huge crops of berries. The 4th year (2006) was about 1/10th of the previous
two. Spring 2007 I tore out 1/3 of the plants ( I must have about 300 now)
and ordered 25 more plants to replace them with. Do I need to replace the
other 2/3 with new plants or could my harvest problems be due to plants
being too close to each other? Some are only 2-3 inches apart from all the
runners going everywhere. Any suggestions would be appreciated to bring back
the large crops I was getting. K. M., Colorado Springs, 1/18/08 |
| A: |
It sounds like the strawberry bed
needs additional work to increase fruit production. Some of the plants are
growing too close to each other. They should be about five inches apart.
This spring you can dig up ones that are too crowded and replant them where
they have more room. Also, plants that are more than 3 years old probably
need to be pulled out. Replace them with new plants or with some of the
healthy ones that you are relocating. For additional information please see
the article "Strawberries for the Home Garden" at
www.ext.colostate.edu/pubs/garden/07000.html. |
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| Q: |
We live close to Colorado City
in Southern Colorado. Would peaches and apples grow in this area? Also can
we grow pomegranate? Thanks, A. G., Pueblo, 1/7/08 |
| A: |
You can probably grow apples
successfully in the Colorado City area, especially if you select
recommended varieties. Peaches and pomegranates are less likely to
succeed due to spring frosts that will kill blossoms and young fruit.
For additional information on growing fruit trees please see
www.ext.colostate.edu/ptlk/ptlk1200.html.
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| Q: |
Hello, I would like to plant a
fuyu persimmon tree on the west side in Old Colorado City and I was
wondering if it would live or grow in Colorado. Thank you for your info.
C. R., Colorado Springs, 10/22/07 |
| A: |
Fuyu persimmon trees cannot be
grown in your area of Colorado. It gets too cold there in winter.
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| Q: |
I bought a semi-dwarf improved
Meyer lemon bush. Do I need to plant more than one to get lemons from
it? I heard that fruit trees/bushes won't pollinate without another fruit
bearing tree/bush. R., Temecula, CA; 5/19/07 |
| A: |
You do not need another lemon
tree/bush to get fruit on a Meyer lemon. It is self-fruitful. There
are some fruit trees that require a pollinator, but not this one.
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| Q: |
I live in Monument and would
like to plant dwarf fruit trees. Do they grow at this elevation? If so, how
do they fare in the hail storms and the wind/snow storms that are so common
here? J. T., Monument; 5/18/07 |
| A: |
There are some fruit trees,
mainly apples and plums, that grow at your elevation. Peaches, apricots
and other fruits tend to do poorly due to late spring frosts that kill
blossoms and young fruit. Late frosts and hail can be major problems.
For more information please see Planttalk at www.ext.colostate.edu/ptlk
and click on "Fruit" in the menu.
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| Q: |
We have moved to a new house
and now have 3 mature apple trees. Two are Golden Delicious that I
don't think have ever been pruned. We also have one 7 year old McIntosh
that has definitely never been pruned. They are flowering already.
Have we missed the opportunity to prune them and enhance the shape and
fruit production entirely at this point? (Or just for the season?). It
looks like March is the ideal time to prune these?? If we can still
prune at this point, can you provide a website that has diagrams or
photos showing how to best prune (CSU's website, at least as far as I've
been able to find, seems to be lacking any diagrams for more visual
direction). Thank you. K. C., Longmont, 4/29/07 |
| A: |
Now (late April - early May) is not a
good time to prune fruit trees. Disease organisms are more likely to
attack trees with fresh pruning cuts made in late spring and early
summer. The best time to prune the trees is late winter or early spring
before the trees begins to produce leaves.
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| Q: |
I live in New York and have
about 10 apple trees on my lot. They produce "scrub" apples. I want to
keep the trees healthy but wish to eliminate the fruit. The thousands of
apples just get mowed. How do I keep the trees and eliminate the fruit?
T. M., Perry, NY; 10/20/06 |
| A: |
There is a product called Florel that
eliminates fruit production on apple trees. It is available at garden
centers and many home improvement stores. It must be sprayed at
exactly the right time to be effective. The label directions will
explain when to spray the trees with the product.
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| Q: |
I live in Colorado Springs and
would like to grow blackberries and other berries. Is this difficult?
I'm at 7,000 ft elev. B. B., Colorado Springs, 10/11/06 |
| A: |
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| Q: |
I love the blossoms on crab
apple trees but I really don't like the fruit. Is there a way to spray
the blossoms to eliminate fruit production??? M. S., Aurora,
4/21/06 |
| A: |
Florel is a product that can be sprayed
on crab apple trees to limit fruiting. It must be sprayed at just the
right time to be effective. Be sure to read and follow label
instructions.
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| Q: |
Can fig trees survive in
Colorado? K. F., Dacono, 4/18/06 |
| A: |
Fig trees can't survive the cold
winters in Colorado. |
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| Q: |
We live in mid Michigan.
We have a golden delicious apple tree about 5 years old. It is now the
end of December and the tree still has dried up leaves on it. It there
something wrong with the health of the tree? It has never happened
before. Also we had a bad summer with the Japanese Beetles. G.,
Saginaw, MI; 12/25/05 |
| A: |
Leaves on
deciduous trees typically react to fewer hours of sunlight and cooler
temperatures in fall by changing color and dropping. However, if very
cold temperatures occur before the leaves have fallen, the leaves can die
and remain on the tree. |
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| Q: |
I have a medium size peach tree. Four years ago when I
bought the house it was full of peaches. That was the last time I saw
any peaches. Why? When should I prune a peach tree? The
bark has a black tint to it. Is that okay? R. B., Sterling,
10/7/05 |
| A: |
There are several possible
reasons why the peach tree isn't
bearing fruit. The tree
may be the type that needs a
pollinator. Perhaps it had
one that no longer is around.
Fruit trees require at least 6
hours of full sun daily.
Has any nearby tree grown larger
or a structure been added that
now shades the peach tree?
Was there a frost when the tree
was in bloom? Peach and
apricot trees often fail to
fruit due to frost damage.
The peach tree should be
pruned annually in late winter
or early spring just before the
tree leafs out. Also, be sure
to fertilize the tree in
spring. I'm not sure what the
black tint is. Peach trees
are highly susceptible to viral
disease. Hopefully that is not
a factor.
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| Q: |
We have a rhubarb plant that we transplanted last fall. It grew some nice
leaves this spring, but they were small and now, it has large seed stalks?
What is the best thing to do? Cut off the stalks or just leave it alone?
When and with what is the best time to fertilize rhubarb? J.,
Littleton, 5/28/05 |
| A: |
You should pull off the
seed stalks with a strong yank. Avoid cutting them because
it leaves a stub that will decay.
Don't remove any of the stalks, except
the seed stalks, for
two seasons. This allows the plant to build up the reserves
in the roots and crown. These reserves enable the plant to
produce thick stems. Fertilize plants in spring when growth starts with one
cup of 10-10-10 fertilizer.
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| Q: |
I live in Colorado Springs and
would like to plant berries and grapes in my yard. What should I know
about these plants? What kind of maintenance is required, type of
light, etc.? |
| A: |
Berries that do
well in Colorado include strawberries and red and yellow
raspberries. CSU Cooperative Extension provides detailed
instructions for growing these plants. Please see
http://www.ext.colostate.edu/. Click on
Horticulture. Click on Factsheets. Click on Fruits &
Vegetables. Scroll down to "Strawberries for the Home
Garden" (# 7.000) and "Raspberries for the Home Garden" (#
7.001).
Grapes should be planted in
spring (April or May). They require full sun. Regular
watering is very important while the plants become
established. Proper pruning promotes fruit production.
According to the Colorado Grape Grower's Guide
the following are some good choices:
Seedless: Himrod, Interlaken,
Lakemont, Suffolk Red, Canadice, and Reliance
Seeds: Concord, Niagra, and
Steuben.
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| Q:
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We have an apple tree in our backyard. I don't want it
to bloom or have apples. Is there any way of spraying it so that it
doesn't get apples? My dog and myself are allergic to bees and it
attracts a lot. I like the shade but not bees. K. H., Loveland,
2/19/05
|
| A: |
You can spray the apple tree with Florel, a
growth regulator, to prevent the tree from producing apples.
However, it will not stop the tree from blooming. Be sure to
read and follow all label instructions. |
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| Q:
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I am interested in purchasing a
lemon tree for indoor container growing. I am looking for the variety
that will produce lots of lemons, yet not grow to be too huge to keep in our
house. Any suggestions? R. H., Denver, 1/3/05
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| A:
|
Sunset Western Garden
Book suggests using 'Improved Meyer' or 'Ponderosa' lemons in indoor
containers. Be sure to buy a dwarf form. The lemon tree
needs to be placed near a sunny window (southern or western exposure),
but keep it away from heating vents. Mist the tree to increase
humidity. You may also want to place a tray containing pebbles
and water beside it to increase humidity.
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| Q:
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I live in Thornton, CO, and am
thinking about getting a couple of Kiwi vines. I have found a variety
that should be able to easily handle the winter here, but I am unsure about
the altitude and heat. How do they handle the predominantly clay soil
and our hot summers? D. O., Thornton, 5/2/04
|
| A:
|
Hardy species of Kiwi (Actinidia
arguta and A. kolomikta) can be grown here as ornamental plants or for
their fruit. The fruit is smaller than the type sold in
supermarkets, but has a similar flavor. The vines need special
protection during winter the first two years. For good pollination
a male plant and a female plant are usually planted on the same trellis.
It will be three or four years before fruit is produced. Due to
our intense sunlight plants should be grown in partial shade. They
prefer moderate to regular watering. They like well-drained soil, so
amend the soil with compost if you have clay soil. 'Ananasnaja,'
'Geneva,' 'Issai' and 'Meador' are cultivars you might consider.
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| Q:
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I would like to plant an apple
tree in my back yard on the west side in Colorado Springs. Can you
offer information about the best choices for varieties? I was thinking
of a semi-dwarf or mid-size tree, mid to late blooming. I read that
some varieties will cross pollinate with crab apple trees. Is this
true? There are two in good proximity. One is in bloom now and
one should bloom within two weeks. Thanks for any advice you can
offer. D. P., Colorado Springs, 4/17/04
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| A:
|
Yes, it is true that nearby
crabapple trees can pollinate apple trees. A technique sometimes
used is to cut two or three blooming crabapple branches, place them in a
bucket, and hang or perch the bucket in the apple tree.
Some late blooming
varieties include 'Criterion' and 'Rome Beauty.' Other popular
varieties include 'Cox Orange,' 'Red Delicious,' 'Golden Delicious,'
'McIntosh,' and 'Fameuse.'
For additional information
please visit the Planttalk website at www.planttalk.org
and click on Fruits. You will find an article on Apples, #1201.
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| Q:
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I would like to plant a
gooseberry bush, but I am afraid it will spread like raspberries do.
Does a gooseberry take over a garden? C. F., Monument, 4/1/04
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| A:
|
A gooseberry bush can
definitely spread and take over a garden unless it is kept under control
by regular pruning.
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| Q:
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How do I protect my peach tree
from frost? D. L., Gardnerville, NV; 3/24/04
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| A:
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Here are a few steps you
can take to limit frost damage to the peach tree: Water the soil
around the tree when you expect a frost. Moist soil retains heat
better than dry soil, and the soil releases the heat as temperatures
fall. Depending on the size of the tree, you may want to make a
shelter for it. Make a frame with four tall stakes or PVC pipe.
Place floating row cover or burlap over the top of the frame whenever
frost is expected. Small spot lights that shine on the tree may also
help. A fan that keeps air moving so cold air doesn't settle around
the tree is another option.
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| Q:
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We recently moved into a home
that has apple trees. Having never had any kind of fruit tree to care
for, we're not sure how to take care of it. When and how often should
it be sprayed for worms? And when is the right time to start picking
apples? The former owners baked with the apples and I'd like to do the
same. S. D., Longmont, 9/15/03
|
| A:
|
For information on the care of
apple trees please see the CSU Cooperative Extension website at www.ext.colostate.edu.
Click on "Gardening." Click on "Fact sheets."
Click on "Fruits & Vegetables." Then click on # 2.800
Backyard Orchard: Apples & Pears."
There is another article on
this website you might find helpful. On the home page instead of
clicking on "Gardening" click on "Insects."
Click on "Fact sheets." Click on "Trees &
Shrubs." Then click on # 5.519 Apple and Pear Insects."
It can be tricky
determining when apples are ready to be picked. You can simply try
tasting one to see if they are ready. A starchy tasting apple isn't
ripe. Garden author Barbara Hyde suggests testing apples for
ripeness with iodine. Pour a little iodine in a saucer. Cut an
apple in half and place it, cut side down, in the iodine for 2 or 3
minutes. If the apple doesn't take up the iodine, the apple is ripe.
If it takes up the iodine it is not ready.
I hope you'll be enjoying
homemade apple pies soon. What a treat!
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| Q:
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I was wanting to plant some fruit
trees; maybe an apricot and plum. Can you recommend a good hardy variety
that can with stand Colorado's weather? M. S., Westminster, 8/2/03
|
| A:
|
Apricot trees are not dependable for
fruiting along the Front Range. They are hardy, but tend to bloom
early and the fruit is then damaged by frost. If you want to try one,
place it in a cold spot on your property that gets no reflected heat from
structures, driveways, etc. to discourage early bloom. The area should
not be a frost pocket. Apply a thick mulch once the ground has frozen.
Hardy varieties include Goldcot, Moorpark, Sungold and Moongold. Some
of these need a pollinator.
Plums are more reliable for producing
fruit. As with apricots, avoid planting them in frost pockets.
Some recommended varieties include Stanley, Green Gage, Blue Damson, and
Waneta.
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| Q:
|
Having moved to Colorado from Britain, I am on a very steep learning curve
when it comes to gardening for this climate. I have a couple of
questions.
I want to plant a grape vine on the southern side of my property. We
have clay soils, the area I am thinking of planting has full sun most of
the day!! Are there any varieties which do better than others at
this altitude with regard to rate of growth and fruiting? Can you
suggest a good book to help with Colorado issues as well as grape-vine
growing? My aim is to use a vine on a structure to provide some much
needed dappled shade in which to sit.
Secondly, is it worth planting herbs in the garden for culinary use, or
would it be better to cultivate them in pots to be brought in for the
winter? I'm thinking of mint, thyme, rosemary, oregano, lemon balm,
sage. Will they survive the winter? I ask because I planted a
lavender last year and it died, I think because of the snow. Any
pointers would be most appreciated.
Great website! It's going straight on my list of favourites as I try
to get my head round this climate!!!! S. H., Longmont, 5/9/03
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| A:
|
There are several varieties of grapes that
should perform well in your area: Concord, Himrod, Niagara, Valiant,
Reliance, Canadice, Perlett and Beta. Be sure to add compost to your
clay soil before planting the grapes. They need well-drained soil.
The major portion of the root should be planted at a depth of one foot.
This will provide protection in winter.
A good book that will help with
gardening in Colorado is "Progress of a Gardener" by Barbara
Hyde. It is the second volume of "Gardening in the Mountain
West" and is written specifically for this location. It has a
brief section on grapes. You will also find chapters on herbs,
vegetables, fruits, pests, roses and several other topics.
Herbs can be grown in pots or in the
ground. Growing them in pots has the advantage of allowing you to
move them inside when the weather gets cold. This will extend the
growing season so you can use them longer. If you plant them outside
you will want to cover the crowns with several inches of mulch in late
fall to protect them. Most of the herbs you mentioned are perennials
and should come back next year. Oregano, however, isn't hardy and
should be considered an annual here.
Welcome to Colorado. Good luck
with gardening here! I hope the Colorado Gardening website will be
helpful.
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| Q:
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We are relatively new residents in Boulder and would like to plant fruit
trees and berry vines, but we do not know the types and varieties for this
area or the best time of year to plant. Any info you could send would be
much appreciated. Thanks for your assistance. J. B., Boulder,
4/15/03
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| A:
|
Red and yellow raspberries do well in Colorado. Recommended
summer-bearing varieties include Latham, Boyne, Newburgh, Canby and Titan.
Fall-bearing varieties include Redwing, August Red, Heritage, Fall Red,
Fall Gold, September, Pathfinder and Trailblazer.
Fruit trees that are successful
include apples, plums, and sour cherries. Due to our late frosts,
peaches and apricots tend to perform poorly. Sweet cherries aren't
hardy enough and pears are prone to fire blight. Good apple
varieties are Red Delicious, McIntosh and Fameuse. Sour cherries
that do well are Montmorency and Meteor. Recommended plums include
Stanley, Green Gage, Blue Damson, Waneta and Sapalta. Spring is a
good time to plant fruit trees and berries.
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| Q:
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I would like to grow strawberry plants in containers. Any information on
types of containers, type of suitable plants, fertilization, etc. would be
appreciated. K. T., Castle Rock; 4/6/03
|
| A:
|
Strawberries can be grown in a
variety of containers: strawberry pots with pockets for the plants,
hanging baskets, large barrels, etc. Use a good potting soil, not
dirt from the yard, to fill the containers. When planting, place the
crown of the plants level with the soil surface. After planting the
berries, place a layer of mulch over the soil to retain moisture and to
keep berries off of the soil. Water immediately. Keep the soil
moist, but not soggy. Fertilize the plants with a water soluble
fertilizer made for use on fruits and vegetables (Miracle Gro, for
example), being careful to follow the directions on the label.
The first blossoms are usually picked off to allow the plant to use
its energy to grow stronger before producing fruit. Sturdier plants
will produce more fruit. Do not allow berries to rot on the vine.
Rotting fruit will attract insects and diseases.
Recommended Everbearers (plants that
produce a main crop in June, a light crop in late summer and small amounts
of fruit throughout the summer) are Fort Laramie, Ozark Beauty, Ogallala
and Quinalt. Day neutral varieties, which fruit throughout summer,
include Tristar, Tribute and Fern. Another type of strawberry that
produces only one large crop during the month of June is also available.
Known as June-bearers, this group includes Guardian, Kent, and Honeoye.
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| Q:
|
Hi! I wondered what
cultivars of cherries do well in Colorado. I am at 5700 feet, and would
ideally prefer two sours and three sweet blacks. Also, can you recommend a
nursery growing trees for our climate? Thanks. M. D., Fort Collins,
12/18/02
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| A:
|
Both Colorado State University
Cooperative Extension and Planttalk Colorado recommend a sour cherry named
"Montmorency." It is popular in the home garden and
commercially. "Meteor" and "Early Richmond" are
also recommended. "Meteor" is a slightly smaller tree.
"Early Richmond," while very hardy, doesn't have as high a
quality fruit as "Montmorency." "North Star" is
very good and grows on a dwarf tree.
Sweet cherries are less hardy than sour cherries
and, therefore, are a challenge to grow along the Front Range. You
will lose them during a really cold winter. "Stella" is
self-pollinating and fairly hardy. "Van" is another
possibility.
Cherry trees should be planted in full sun.
They require good drainage, so be sure to amend the soil with compost if
you have clay soil. To prevent possible frost damage, avoid planting
trees in low areas of your yard or near anything that obstructs air
circulation. Also, avoid sites that are close to the west or south
side of a building. The heat produced in those areas can lead to
early blooming that is vulnerable to spring frosts.
There are several good garden centers in your
area. You might try Fort Collins Nursery at 2121 East Mulberry.
Phone: (970)-482-1984.
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| Q:
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I am interested in growing fruit trees
(Peach and Pear). Is it possible for this climate? Some catalogs
won't send a peach tree to Colorado. Also, which are the best fruit
trees to grow here? Thanks. M. F., Colorado Springs,
5/26/02
|
| A:
|
Peaches and apricots are a challenge to
grow along the Front Range. They bloom early and therefore are subject
to frost damage. Hardy varieties are available if you want to give
them a try. Pears and apples do much better, although fire blight can
be a problem with them. Tart cherries usually perform well.
While not a tree fruit, raspberries are another fruit that does really well
here. For additional information on specific varieties of these fruit
trees that do well in Colorado please contact your county CSU Cooperative
Extension office and request a free copy of fact sheet # 7.004, "Tree
& Shrub Fruits of the High Plains." The phone number for the
El Paso county office is 719-636-8920.
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| Q:
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I will be moving to Black Forest just
outside of Colorado Springs, elev.7490 ft. Will I be able to grow any type
of fruit trees with special care? Thanks. N. R., San Jose, CA;
5/17/02
|
| A:
|
According to horticulturist Barbara Hyde,
apples, pears, plums and sour cherries can be grown in altitudes below 8,000
feet. By using cultivars bred for the area and planting in protected,
sunny sites you should have success. You might consider getting a small
greenhouse where you could even raise citrus trees in containers!
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| Q:
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I have a Northstar cherry tree I
planted last year. It looked very healthy. This year it still looks
dormant. It is not dead and is very flexible. Just no other signs of
life. B. B., Hot Springs Village, AR; 5/15/02
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| A:
|
There are many factors that could cause
the poor vigor of the tree, resulting in the extended dormancy or death of
the tree. Weather conditions, too much or too little water,
insufficient sunlight, diseases, pests, and soil conditions such as poor
drainage, low nutritional level, wrong pH, etc. may have played a role.
Inspect the trunk and limbs for cankers and pests and treat as needed.
Evaluate watering practices being sure that sufficient water is provided,
but being careful not to over-water, which would suffocate the tree. It
usually is best not to fertilize a stressed plant.
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| Q:
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Is there anything that I can do
to protect my apple trees from frost or snow? K., Englewood, 4/18/02
|
| A:
|
Unfortunately, little can be done
in many cases to prevent frost damage to trees. One idea I saw in
resources I consulted is to erect a temporary shelter over the tree.
Use wood stakes or PVC pipes to construct a box-like frame around the tree
and spread plastic or burlap over the top and sides. Moisten the soil
slightly because moist soil retains heat better, releasing it as the
temperature drops.
If no rain or snow accompanies the frost, you can use a fan to
keep the air moving around the tree. Cold air drops and settles
close to the ground, while warm air is pushed upward. The fan prevents
the cold air from settling around the tree. Of course this method
requires a source of electricity and cords that are rated for outdoor use.
I hope your apple trees survived the recent frost and, if we're
lucky, we won't have any late snows this year!
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| Q:
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What is your advice on pruning
(when and how)? We have black raspberry bushes, and several fruit
trees (apple, cherry and peach). N. S., Lakewood, 4/1/02
|
| A:
|
The sources I consulted provided
the following information on pruning:
Black Raspberries: Prune in the fall after the leaves have fallen.
Cut canes back to ground level.
Fruit trees: Prune in late winter or early spring just before bud break.
Remove dead, weak, and broken branches. Also remove branches that
interfere with others or that have a narrow, upright crotch. Do not
leave stubs nor cut flush to the trunk. Instead, make cuts just beyond
the branch collar, a slight swelling where the branch connects to the trunk.
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| Q:
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I live in Colorado Springs and I
want to grow blueberries. I have sandy soil and my back yard faces the
Southwest. I would like to know when to plant and if they need full of
partial sun. I have two small blueberry plants that don't give any
instructions. I have automatic sprinklers in my yard so I could place
them where they would get a good water supply. Can you tell me how much
water they need as well? J. S., Colorado Springs, 3/31/02
|
| A:
|
According to the Sunset Western
Garden Book, blueberries should be planted in early spring. They
require good drainage, and your sandy soil will be of help with that
requirement. They also prefer to be moist. Therefore, you will
need to water quite frequently to prevent the soil from drying out.
Check the soil often, because sandy soil does not retain moisture very well.
Using a mulch will help the soil retain moisture. Plant them in an
area that gets full sun.
Now for the bad news: they need acidic soil. Most
soil in Colorado is very alkaline. You may want to consider growing
them in containers or raised beds filled with an acidic potting soil like
the ones used for azaleas and rhododendrons. You can add chemicals and
amendments to the garden soil to try to improve the pH, but the benefits
will be short-lived and the soil will revert back to being alkaline without
ongoing attention.
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| Q:
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I am planning a strawberry patch
this spring. Can you recommend a good everbearing strawberry for Colorado?
(I live in Englewood.) S. H., Englewood, 3/23/02
|
| A:
|
Some everbearing strawberries that are
recommended for Colorado include Ogallala (cold hardy), Fort Laramie (cold
hardy), Ozark Beauty, and Quinault. Local garden centers should carry
them and they may be available by mail or Internet order.
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| Q:
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I recently purchased 10 acres
near Lake George, CO. I am interested in planting some berry bushes in
the spring. Where can I purchase raspberry, chokecherry, currant or
other native, hearty plants? When would be the best time to plant?
I am particularly interested in attracting birds. C. W., Dillon,
3/11/02
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| A:
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The best time to plant is in spring
when the ground is no longer frozen. The Colorado Springs area has
several garden centers including one in Woodland Park that may carry the
plants you want. For a list of these go to www.qwestdex.com.
Enter Colorado Springs as the city and do a search for nurseries.
Another option is mail order or Internet sites:
Park Seed at www.parkseed.com carries
bareroot 'Heritage' and 'Fall Gold' raspberries.
Mellinger's at www.mellingers.com
carries currants and raspberries.
Wayside Gardens at
www.waysidegardens.com carries bareroot 'Heritage' raspberries.
High Country Gardens at
www.highcountrygardens.com carries Nannyberry (Viburnum lentago) and Silver
Buffalo Berry (Shepherdia argentea).
These sites have catalogs and do mail orders if you don't want
to order on the Internet. Their sites tell you how to order a catalog.
Keep in mind that Lake George is in USDA hardiness zone 4. Be sure to
buy or order plants suited to that zone.
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Hi. My name is John and I'm
originally from Kansas. The grade
of soil I am used to is much richer than that in the back yard where I plan
to start a couple of gardens. It is somewhat sandy but there is some good in
it. (I'm in South East Colorado Springs near the airport if that helps.) I
was wondering what you would suggest to fix that issue.
Also on another note I would like to plant some bare root
Clematis, Raspberries and Blackberries along with some various seeds like
Poppies, Sweet Peas, Morning Glories, and Pepper and a few Gladiola Bulbs.
(The seeds will be started inside and then transplanted.) What time of year
would you suggest I start planting the bulbs and bareroot plants? On the
same note what time would be best to transplant the seedlings?
Thank you Very Much for your time. J., Colorado Springs,
2/24/02
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| A:
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To improve the soil you should add
organic soil amendments such as compost. Because your soil is sandy, you may
also want to include some coarse sphagnum peat to improve water retention.
You can add composted manure that has been aged for a year to areas other
than vegetable gardens. Due to the possible presence of E-coli and
other disease-causing bacteria, manure is no longer recommended for
vegetable beds. As soon as the soil is workable this spring, add three
cubic yards of the amendment per 1000 square feet, working it into the soil
well. Adding too much amendment all at once can lead to problems with
salt accumulating in the amended soil. Plan to improve the soil
gradually over a period of years.
You can plant the bareroot plants in spring (mid-March or
later). Be sure to soak the roots several hours or overnight before
planting. I have read that bareroot raspberries can be difficult to
establish and blackberries require special winter protection here.
Plant the Poppy, Sweet Pea and Morning Glory seedlings and the gladiola
bulbs after the last frost date -- between May 13th and May 18th in Colorado
Springs. Because peppers are very cold sensitive, wait until June 1st
to plant them outside. Be sure to harden off the transplants for a
week before planting them by putting them outdoors for a few hours each day,
gradually increasing the amount of time spent outside. A low analysis
complete mineral fertilizer (5-10-5) can be worked into flower beds at a
rate of 10 - 20 pounds per 1000 square feet. Use of a starter solution
high in phosphate is also recommended for transplants to help them become
established.
It sounds like you will have a great garden. Good luck.
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| Q:
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I am moving to Colorado Springs and am
interested in knowing the growing season for fruits and vegetables and if
you have a lot of fresh local produce year round. We live in
California now and eat only fresh fruits and vegetables. Thank you.
S. B., Salida, CA, 2/9/02
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| A:
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Fresh produce, including produce from
organic growers, is readily available year round at supermarkets.
However, produce is not locally grown during winter because the ground
freezes and temperatures are too cold. Beginning in spring (April and
May), vegetables are planted in succession depending on their tolerance to
cold and frost. Locally grown produce is ample during late spring
through fall at farmer's markets, roadside stands, and supermarkets.
If you plan to grow fruits and vegetables, I suggest that you contact CSU
Cooperative Extension and request that they send you copies of their free
fact sheets on growing fruits and vegetables in Colorado. Several fact
sheets are available on this topic and they are highly informative.
You can also access them on the CSU website. Another good source for
information is Planttalk Colorado. Please see my website
www.coloradogardening.com and look in the menu for "Resources" to
get more information about these sites and services. You can contact
the Cooperative Extension office for the Colorado Springs area by mail at
305 South Union Blvd., Colorado Springs, CO 80910-3123; by phone:
719-636-8920, and by E-mail: elpaso@coop.ext.colostate.edu.
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| Q:
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When and how to trim a nectarine fruit tree. Bore fruit first
time last summer. Grown from a seed. D. B., Ft. Collins, 1/21/02
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| A:
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You should prune nectarine trees in late
winter or early spring just before the buds open. Remove weak, broken
or interfering branches. Also remove branches that have narrow,
upright crotches. When cutting off branches do not leave long stubs.
On the other hand, don't cut off the branch flush to the trunk. Cut
just beyond the collar, a swelling at the base of the branch. If the
tree has long young whips they can be cut back to just above a bud to
promote branching.
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| Q:
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My husband planted watermelons
this year. We live in Northern Colorado in the town of Greeley.
We have four melons that are pretty good size and wonder when would be the
best time to pick. We jumped the gun and picked one already and it was
still yellow inside. Do we have a long enough time span in this area
to harvest watermelons? P. B., Evans, 9/7/01
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| A:
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Watermelons can be grown
successfully in Colorado at elevations below 5000 feet. They require
80 - 95 days for first production. Harvest watermelons when the spot
where they sit on the ground turns a buttery yellow and they make a dull,
rather than a ringing, sound when thumped. Varieties for Colorado gardens
include Golden Crown, Bush Sugar Baby and Sugar Baby. For additional
information on growing watermelons, contact your county office of Colorado
State University Cooperative Extension and request factsheet # 7.609.
You can find the phone number under "Resources" on my
website.
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| Q:
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I have several grape vines
growing on a trellis. During the recent snow storm the leaves which
had been quite profuse, all died. Will the plants regenerate leaves
this year? They are looking quite dead at the present time. C. W.,
Centennial, 5/28/01
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| A:
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If the grape vines are
established, they have a good chance of leafing out again. You may
want to prune off any badly damaged sections to encourage new growth.
A light application of fertilizer may also be helpful.
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| Q:
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I have several small cherry
trees that are producing fruit for the first time this year. The
upper most leaves are becoming deformed, curling inward. Can you tell me
what the problem is and what I should do to correct it? J. O., Thornton,
5/21/01
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| A:
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When leaves curl, aphids are
often the cause. They typically are found on new growth in late
spring and early summer. Ladybird beetles (ladybugs) are a natural
predator. Spraying the trees with a strong jet of water may help.
Malathion may be used if problems are severe. Dormant oils,
which should be applied in winter, are one of the best controls. For
a definitive diagnosis you can take a sample to your county CSU
Cooperative Extension office.
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| Q:
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I heard that peach trees will
yield fruit sometimes in the Front Range. Is that true? Is
there a variety whose flowers are more likely to survive the late frosts?
J. C., Superior, 4/10/01
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| A:
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Because frosts can damage
early-blooming peaches, they are not considered dependable when planted
along the Front Range. Some varieties that may perform
satisfactorily are Reliance, Polly, Halehaven, J. H. Hale, Ranger, Elberta
and Haven. Trees perform best when planted in full sun in soil that
drains well. Avoid planting them in low areas.
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| Q:
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How much fertilizer and what kind do
I put on my red raspberries? I live in NE Colorado - Holyoke,
CO. W. M., Holyoke, 2/13/01
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| A:
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To fertilize red raspberries apply 4
pounds of ammonium sulfate and 2 pounds of treble super phosphate per 1000
square feet in the spring. Spread the fertilizer over the soil among
the canes, dig it in, and water well. An excellent source of information
on growing raspberries in Colorado is factsheet # 7.001, "Raspberries
for the Home Garden," available free from your county CSU Cooperative
Extension office.
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| Q:
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I have a
question about
preparation for the winter. Am I to cut back my grape vine each year (it
grows along my fence) or just leave it? E., Denver, 10/28/00 |
| A:
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You should prune grape vines early in spring each year, leaving 2-4 good canes. Don't prune them
now (in the fall). |
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| Q:
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I have had raspberry bushes for about 12 years and never
done anything with them. They grow great, but the fruit is getting
smaller. Should I be cutting them back or something in the spring or
fall? Thanks for your help. From D. R., Littleton,
5/12/00 |
| A:
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The reduced production of
fruit that you have described is normal for raspberries. Raspberry
production peaks when the plants are three years old and then gradually
declines. It is recommended that you relocate the bed and plant
new stock after 8-10 years.
Summer-bearing varieties
of raspberries, which produce fruit in June, should be lightly pruned in
spring. Remove dead, weak and small canes and clip off any damaged
tips of canes. After canes bear fruit, you should cut them off to
the ground--they will not bear fruit again.
Fall-bearing varieties
are pruned to the ground after they bear fruit in late summer or fall.
Pruning eliminates many pests and disease organisms that live in the
canes.
For additional
information about recommended varieties of raspberries for Colorado and
cultivation tips, contact your county office of Colorado State
University Cooperative Extension and request a copy of fact sheet 7.001.
The phone number for Jefferson County is 303-271-6620.
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