|
Q: |
What kind of
grass can be grown in Colorado that will hold up to dogs? I find it
hard to believe that there is not a lawn grass that will not turn yellow
from dog urine. Please help this garden and dog lover! P. P., Parker,
8/9/09 |
|
A: |
I'm sorry, but
I don't know of any type of grass that tolerates dog urine well. Fescue
lawns are less sensitive than Kentucky bluegrass, but they still get
damage. Some people try to train their dog to go in one area of the
yard. Watering the area where the dog goes within a few hours can help
minimize damage by diluting the urine. This is a very common problem
that lots of us just learn to accept because we love our dog!
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Q: |
We live in Colorado Springs, and
each year, our lawn gets progressively worse, despite watering , aerating
and fertilizing. My neighbors think the aspen tree we have is sucking up all
the moisture but I see plenty of lawn with even larger Aspens that do not
have that problem. I think it is fungal in nature. What should I use?
A. B., Colorado Springs, 5/12/09 |
|
A: |
Because there is an aspen tree
in the lawn you will need to provide additional water and fertilizer for
the lawn. If the lawn has a fungus you will see symptoms such as dead
areas with green grass in the center or serpentine dead areas. There
are lawn fungicides available to spray on the turf. Look for them in
the garden section of Lowe's and Home Depot or at garden centers.
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Q: |
I just planted a new lawn with
seeds in the middle of March and it is now growing, but where the grass is
is elm trees. Every year we get those pesky weeds that grow under elm trees.
How can I get rid of these weeds now before they choke out my new grass?
S., Pueblo, 4/21/08 |
|
A: |
It is too soon to apply weed
killer to a recently seeded new lawn. You should not apply a weed
killer until the lawn has been mowed 4 or 5 times. At that time you can
use a weed killer for broadleaf weeds in turf. Once the lawn is
established you can use pre-emergent weed killers that prevent weeds
from growing.
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Q: |
We are about to plant grass in
our yard and are wondering which type would be the best. We want the grass
to be soft and full for the kids to play on, yet also don't want to have to
water it like crazy. If you have any suggestions, we would really appreciate
it! J. A., Lakewood, 3/18/08 |
|
A: |
Which grass is the best depends
on a number of factors. Please see
http://www.csuturf.colostate.edu/. Click on "Home Lawn
Care." Click on "What is the best grass to plant in my new lawn?" This
link will take you to a list of several helpful articles on this topic.
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Q: |
I need to reseed the lawn. What
preparation is needed to reseed a lawn? D. F., Littleton, 10/25/07
|
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A: |
For information on re-seeding a
lawn, including preparation, please see
www.ext.colostate.edu/pubs/garden/07241.pdf. |
| |
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Q: |
Is it ok to lay sod at this time
of year in Colorado? S. F., Broomfield, 9/19/07 |
|
A: |
Yes, you can lay sod this time
of year in Colorado. Be sure to water it once or twice a month in
winter when the ground isn't frozen.
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Q: |
I am thinking of replacing my
weed/grass front lawn with an "herbal" lawn. I have been thinking of wooly
thyme, but am open to suggestions. It is now early Sept. Can I still plant
from seed in Colorado Springs? Suggestions? S., Colorado Springs,
9/3/07 |
|
A: |
High Country Gardens in Santa Fe,
NM, has information on thyme lawns including which kinds of thyme do well.
Please see
http://www.highcountrygardens.com/. Click on "Garden Articles."
Type "Planting and Maintaining a Thyme Lawn" in the Search Garden Articles
box. You can plant in fall, but spring is a better time to plant in
Colorado due to dry spells in winter that desiccate plants. |
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Q: |
In this area is it better to
water each zone of your lawn 25 minutes at one time, or water it 5
minutes on each zone and then 5 minutes again and again and again?
C. C., Centennial, 6/29/07 |
|
A: |
Because much of Colorado's soil
is clay, applying a large quantity of water all at once usually results
in runoff. The soil simply can't absorb it fast enough. Therefore, it
is better to water each zone a shorter length of time and cycle through
the zones about three times. |
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|
Q: |
What do you know about using
zoysia grass in Colorado? J., Boulder, 6/19/07
|
|
A: |
Zoysia grass is not recommended for
Colorado yards. A warm season grass, it does best in areas that have longer
growing seasons and hotter night temperatures. |
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|
Q: |
I've heard John Cretti say
emphatically that we should not power rake lawns. Can you give me more
information on that? G. F., Lone Tree, 3/31/07 |
|
A: |
The following is information on
power raking from CSU Cooperative Extension. Core aeration is now the
preferred method for controlling thatch.
"Power Raking
This method of thatch removal has been used for years. Light (shallow)
power raking may be beneficial if done often. Deep power raking of a
thatchy lawn can be damaging, and often removes a substantial portion of
the living turf. Used properly, power raking of wet, matted turf can
speed spring green-up by letting air move into the root zone and warm
the turf. Compost the thatch and organic material to kill any
living grass before it's used as a mulch or soil amendment.
Core Cultivation or Aerating
This is more beneficial than power raking. It helps improve the root
zone by relieving soil compaction while controlling thatch accumulation.
Soil compaction, in fact, is one factor that contributes to thatch
buildup.Aeration removes plugs of
thatch and soil 2 to 3 inches long (the longer, the better) and deposits
them on the lawn. A single aeration using a machine with 1/2-inch
diameter tines removes about 10 percent of the thatch if enough passes
are made to achieve an average 2-inch spacing between holes.
Disposing of the cores is a matter of
personal choice. From a cultural perspective, there may be an advantage
to allowing the cores to disintegrate and filter back down into the
lawn. Mingling soil and thatch may hasten the natural decomposition of
the thatch. The little fluffs of thatch and turf that remain can be
collected and composted.
Depending on soil type, core
disintegration may take a few days to several weeks. Irrigation helps
wash the soil from the cores. Dragging a piece of cyclone fence or an
old metal door mat can speed the process. Running over the cores with a
rotary mower can be effective but can dull the blade. Many commercial
companies that perform core cultivation break up the cores with a power
rake. If the cores are removed from the lawn, compost them before using
them as a mulch or soil amendment."
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Q: |
I would like to put in some tall
fescue with seed. Are there soil preparation directions and watering
requirements available on your web site? We live NE of Ft Collins where it
is very dry and windy. We need to replant our yard to the North. Would
this be the best kind of grass to plant? Would it be best to plant in
Sept/Oct? K. F., Wellington, 8/17/06 |
|
A: |
For information on seeding a yard please
see
http://www.csuturf.colostate.edu/. Click on Home Lawn Care and
follow the prompts. You will find information on soil preparation and
watering. |
|
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|
Q: |
I have almost perfecting round
yellow spots on my lawn. I treated for grubs. It was ok for a few
weeks. Now this perfectly round yellow circles of dead grass are
appearing. It looks like dog urine, but it is in the back also
where no dogs go. I notice lots of really fast spiders on the driveway.
Can they be related? Also, mushrooms have appeared this year, I think
from the cutting service. Can this be related? Thanks, B. D.,
Lafayette, 6/8/06 |
|
A: |
From your description it sounds like the
lawn has a disease, possibly Dollar Spot Disease. For information on
this please see
www.ext.colostate.edu/pubs/garden/02933.html. The spiders
are not related to this problem. Mushrooms appear due to decaying
organic matter in the soil.
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Q: |
Our homeowners' lawn was not
power raked for 15 yrs. We had it done yesterday. The contractor
said he didn't want to take too much off because the water is not on yet
and it would stress the lawn. I can say we see green now among the
brown grass; thatch IS less. Is the contractor right or should we make
him do more? (Our mower person says it is not as much off as it needs).
Thanks. M. C., Montrose, 3/21/06 |
|
A: |
According to the turf experts
at CSU, shallow power raking may be beneficial if done often. Deep
power raking can damage turf. Core aeration, rather than power raking,
is now the preferred method for controlling thatch. |
| |
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|
Q: |
We moved into a new development
(Stapleton) last year. Should we have our soil checked before we put in our
grass? It seems like pure clay and landscaping companies suggest only a
little added soil before putting in the grass. How about those little
"jelly balls" which hold in the moisture? What are they called, and do you
suggest it? The grass area will be ONLY 400sq. feet. What kind of grass
should we use? Thank you. B. K., Denver, 3/16/06 |
|
A: |
Good soil preparation is essential for
the establishment of a healthy, attractive lawn. A soil test is highly
recommended so
you know exactly what type of soil you have
and if it has any deficiencies that should
be corrected. The general recommendation is
to improve soil before planting seed or
laying sod by mixing 3 - 5 cubic yards of
compost per 1000 sq. feet of lawn area.
Mix the compost into the soil to a depth of
about 5 inches. There is much debate about
the use of polymers ("jelly balls") to hold
moisture. Turf experts at CSU don't
recommend them. For a traditional looking
lawn you can use either Kentucky Blue Grass
or Tall Fescue. |
| |
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|
Q: |
Today is October 24, 2005, and
we just had our first freeze last night in NW Denver. Is it too late to
reseed bare areas of our lawn? And, will buffalo grass grow under
large pine trees? Thanks!! B. C., Denver, 10/24/05 |
|
A: |
It is
best to re-seed cool season lawns such
as Kentucky Bluegrass between March and
September, with mid-August to
mid-September being the best time.
Avoid seeding after the first fall
frost, as seedlings are likely to die
during winter. Buffalo grass does not
perform well in the shade. A
groundcover would be a better choice
below the pine trees. |
| |
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|
Q: |
When is the best time of year to overseed a fescue lawn? And
what can I do to increase the chances that the fescue seed will grow?
J. B., Parker, 8/20/05 |
| A:
|
Fescue is a cool season grass. Therefore, spring and
fall are the best times to overseed the lawn. For
information on renovating a lawn please see
http://csuturf.colostate.edu/. Click on Home
Lawn Care. |
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|
Q: |
Is there any safe way of
removing mushrooms and/or toadstools in our yard? They are in fairy rings
and very difficult and not so attractive. We read somewhere to put dry
laundry detergent on them and the rings, but all that did was destroy the
grass. Mowing them doesn't seem to help either! Any suggestions or
solutions would be quite helpful! Thanks! K. G., Craig, 7/31/05 |
| A:
|
Fairy ring is caused by
fungi that live in the soil and thatch layer. Soils stressed by low
moisture and fertility tend to experience more problems. Watering and
fertilizing regularly may help. Using a wetting agent like Revive may
help the soil absorb water better. Core aerate the lawn in spring and
fall to control thatch buildup. Using fungicides has limited benefit. |
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Q: |
With the 90+ days our grass is dying. We have tried to
change the watering so it gets 20 minutes per day but it is not helping.
The back yard faces west and is in the sun from sun up to sun down. We
do not have any trees that give shade yet. (The yard is 8 years old.)
What can we add to the yard to make is more drought resistant? ( We
have 2 large dogs and 2 kids.) D. B., Broomfield, 7/12/05 |
| A:
|
When you water the lawn, don't apply all the water at one
time. Instead, water each zone for 7 minutes and then again
for another 7 minutes and then again for another 7 minutes.
By breaking up the watering session, more water will soak
into the soil and there will be less runoff. You may want
to consider using Revive to increase water absorption.
Avoid over-fertilizing the lawn. Lush growth requires more
water. Core aerating the lawn in fall and spring will
reduce thatch and improve lawn health. |
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|
Q: |
My parents live in Aurora, Colorado. They have a grass
fungus and are wondering how to take care of it natural. Do you have any
suggestions? D. Houston, TX; 7/5/05 |
| A:
|
Many turf diseases occur when a lawn is
stressed - a likely factor due to the drought
and watering restrictions in recent years.
Cultural control includes core aerating the lawn
in spring and fall, watering in the morning so
leaf blades dry off quickly, avoiding
over-fertilization, and keeping mower blades
sharp. If necessary, a lawn fungicide can be
applied. |
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|
Q: |
I have a new home and want to seed a lawn. I'm planning to
use Kentucky Blue grass probably purchased at Home Depot. Is mid to late
June too late or early to seed the lawn? Also should I cover the lawn with
straw to help maintain moisture after seeding? T. G., Greeley, 6/24/05 |
| A:
|
Kentucky Bluegrass is a cool season lawn, meaning it
grows during cool or warm weather. Growth slows when
weather is hot. Late June, therefore, is not a good
time to seed this type of lawn. It would be better to
wait until mid or late August or early September to seed
it. For tips on seeding a lawn please see the CSU turf
website at
http://csuturf.colostate.edu/. Click on Home
Lawn Care in the menu. |
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|
Q:
|
I recently purchased a house in
Greenwood Village. The previous owners didn't do a very good job
maintaining the lawn, so I'll probably need to put a new one in the front
yard and possibly the back. What is the best time of year to do this?
T. B., Greenwood Village, 5/19/05 |
| A:
|
The best time of
year to install Kentucky Bluegrass or Tall
Fescue is early spring or fall. These are
cool-season grasses that grow most actively in
cooler weather. A really helpful website that
provides information on renovating a lawn is the
CSU turf website at
http://csuturf.colostate.edu/.
Click on Home Lawn Care. |
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|
Q:
|
I have recently purchased a new
home (7.6 acres) in Cheyenne, Wyoming. There is no lawn, period.
I have to get one started. A local guy said that crested wheatgrass is
the way to go: little water, sods up nice, no mowing, and it stays green.
I have been doing some research and like the way it sounds, but some others
say it will be fine on the outer areas (plan on planting maybe an acre), but
that I still will need a strain of bluegrass up close to the house.
Would you recommend upland, Canada, or annual for this area? Also is
crested the way to go? T. G., Cheyenne, WY; 1/12/05
|
| A:
|
Colorado State
University Turf Program has an informative website that can
help you select the best types of turf for your property.
A low maintenance grass like crested wheatgrass would be
good for outer areas. If water is a concern, you may
want to consider buffalograss. (It is green only in
warm weather.) Close to the house you probably want a
more formal type of lawn such as bluegrass or fescue.
The website lists the advantages and disadvantages of these
and has lists of recommended varieties.
To visit the
site go to
http://csuturf.colostate.edu
and click on "Home Lawn Care." Click on the
middle box that says, "For information on starting a
new lawn...." Click on "Seeding a New
Lawn." Click on "Best Species and
Varieties."
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Q:
|
I trimmed the edges of my
lawn with a Weedeater, and about a month later the trimmed area turned brown
and is dying. Could it have been stressed from the trimming? How
can I restore the dead area? P. K., Littleton, 7/20/04
|
| A:
|
Trimming the edges of
the lawn too short can cause them to turn brown. Lawn edges
dry out quickly and when they're trimmed too short they dry out even
faster because the grass blades no longer shade the soil. To
restore the brown areas provide additional water to the edges.
These areas probably are dormant, not dead. You might also
consider using a product such as Revive if the soil is really dry
and the water tends to run off. Revive improves water
absorption.
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|
Q:
|
Could you tell me where I
could get grama grass seed? Will it be good for a yard at 6900 ft.?
We want grass but nothing that needs a lot of care -- more natural for 6900
ft. Do you recommend any thing else? We're on Hi 69 near
Gardner, Colo. The yard has 2 kinds of grass that grow in clumps.
I think it's some kind of Brome grass. Thank you. C., Arvada,
6/3/04
|
| A:
|
Blue grama grass is not adapted
to elevations higher than 6000 feet. Also, buffalograss isn't
recommended for elevations greater than 6500 feet. Choices that are
cold tolerant include fine fescues, crested wheatgrass and smooth
bromegrass. A good supplier of seed is Arkansas Valley Seeds in
Denver.
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|
Q:
|
What are the causes and cures
for mushrooms growing on my blue-grass lawn? Thanks for your
assistance. T. C., Windsor, 5/22/04
|
| A:
|
Mushroom fungi commonly
live in the soil and thatch layer of lawns. If you have rings of
lush green grass with mushrooms growing in the ring bands, the
condition is called fairy ring. The fungi can create dead
patches by building up a mycelial layer that prevents water from
seeping through to the grass roots.
To control mushrooms or
fairy ring in turf you should water regularly, follow fertilization
recommendations for blue grass lawns, and core aerate the lawn in
spring and fall. If water tends to run off, you may want to
apply a wetting agent such as Revive. A fungicide can be
applied, but it will have only a limited effect.
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|
Q:
|
My Boulder, CO, lawn needs
reseeding. I would like a drought resistant, hardy lawn. I have
a dog that is pretty rough on the lawn. R. C., Boulder, 3/15/04
|
| A:
|
The most drought resistant lawn
would be Buffalograss. However, it doesn't do well in shade and
doesn't tolerate traffic from pets very well. Turf-type tall fescue
is drought resistant when the soil permits deep rooting. It
tolerates traffic well. A blend gives better results than use of a
single variety.
For information on
reseeding a lawn please visit
http://csuturf.colostate.edu.
Click on "Home Lawn Care." Click on "Renovating an
Existing Lawn." Also, you might want to click on "Colorado
seed companies" at the bottom of "Seeding a New Lawn" for a
list of sources for quality seed. These companies can make helpful
recommendations.
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|
Q:
|
My 25 year old bluegrass lawn
has Melting Out Disease. Can I replace this with new sod or is the
fungus in the soil? If so can the soil be treated? Thank You.
L. C., Westminster, 2/23/04
|
| A:
|
The spores or mycelium
of the fungi that cause Melting Out Disease survive in all parts of
the plant: roots, thatch, and leaf blades. Before you install
a new lawn you would be wise to treat the area with a fungicide.
Also when buying new sod or seed, you should select a cultivar that is
resistant to this disease. For a list of resistant cultivars,
names of recommended fungicides and information on other steps to take
to prevent or control Melting Out Disease, please visit the CSU
Cooperative Extension website at
www.ext.colostate.edu.
Click on Gardening. Click on Fact sheets. Click on Diseases.
Click on # 2.909 "Leaf Spot and Melting Out Diseases."
You may also like to see the CSU Turfgrass site at
http://csuturf.colostate.edu.
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|
Q:
|
I have 2 questions.
A. How late can I put down sod? All sources say early Sept., but I
won't be ready for two more weeks. Do I have to wait until spring?
B. Can I plant crocus bulbs under bluegrass blend turf or is it too dense to
let them come up? C. S., Erie, 9/24/03
|
| A:
|
While seeding a lawn should be done by
mid to late September, you can sod a lawn through late fall. You
would be wise to do it as soon as possible so the roots are well
established before the ground freezes. Because the sod will not
be deeply rooted, you should continue to water the sod during
fall, winter and early spring when the temperature is above freezing
and the ground isn't frozen. Try to water once or twice a month
during this period.
I believe you can plant crocus bulbs
under bluegrass blend turf, although crocus bulbs are more commonly
planted in buffalograss. The bulbs should have no problem sprouting
up through a new bluegrass lawn because a new lawn doesn't
have a build-up of thatch yet. Be sure to amend your soil before
planting. Bulbs require good drainage or they'll rot.
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|
Q:
|
What is best type fescue for
lawns at 6400 feet? L., Castle Rock, 9/20/03
|
| A:
|
A turf-type tall fescue blend that
is a combination of several turf-type tall fescue varieties is recommended.
Turf-type tall fescue is a cool-season grass, which means it grows most
actively when temperatures are cool. Therefore, it performs well at
high elevations.
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|
Q:
|
My question concerns
refurbishing a bluegrass lawn in Lakewood. There are patches with weeds and
not much grass. If we spray the weeds with a weed killer (not Round-up) how
long do we need to wait before we can seed the areas? How late during the
fall season can we overseed the lawn? My mother doesn't like Round-up so we
will probably need to use another weed killer. I have been manually digging
weeds out as well. Where do you recommend we buy the blue grass seed?
If we decide to wait until spring when is a good time to overseed the lawn?
Thanks for your assistance. R. P., Lakewood, 9/12/03
|
| A:
|
Several types of weed killers for
lawns are available. Some kill only broadleaf weeds, such as
dandelions. Others kill only grassy weeds, such as crabgrass.
A third type kills both broadleaf and selected grassy weeds. It
sounds like this is the type you need. Bayer Advanced Lawn
All-in-One Weed Killer for Lawns is an example of a product formulated to
kill both types of weeds. Round-up is an example of a fourth type of
weed killer. It is non-selective, which means it would kill both the
bluegrass as well as the weeds.
The time you need to wait
between spraying for weeds and overseeding the lawn depends on the product
you use. Therefore, you should be sure to check the label. The
Bayer Advanced Lawn Weed Killer requires that you wait 3 to 4 weeks.
This period will be longer if you have to do a repeat application of weed
killer.
The best time to seed a
bluegrass lawn is late August to late September. If you wait until
spring, April or early May would be a good time to overseed.
Grass seed is available at
garden centers and home improvement stores (Lowe's, Home Depot).
Also, there are seed companies that sell it.
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|
Q:
|
Will "Dwarf Mondo" turf work in the Denver area? I saw an
article on it on 850 KOA radio's web site. M. W., Denver, 4/21/03
|
| A:
|
Dwarf Mondo Grass (Ophiopogon japonicus) is not hardy here. A close
relative known commonly as Lily Turf (Liriope spicata) is a groundcover
that can be used in Denver. It does not tolerate foot traffic.
In the right situations it is a good alternative to a mowed lawn. It
is drought tolerant.
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Q:
|
A friend of mine suggested that I put powered laundry detergent on my lawn
to loosen up the soil. I live near Chatfield Res. in southwest Littleton. The
idea sounds crazy. What do you think? R. Z., Littleton,
4/24/03
|
| A:
|
I strongly recommend that you do not put laundry detergent on your lawn to
loosen up the soil. This product could easily damage the turf, which
is already stressed by drought. Detergents can break down the waxy
coating on the leaf blades, making them more susceptible to insects and
diseases. Also, this coating helps the leaves to retain moisture.
If the soil has become so dried out and compacted that water runs off
instead of soaking into it there are wetting agents specifically developed
for use on turf that can help. "Revive" is one of the
wetting agents that is readily available at garden centers.
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|
|
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|
Q:
|
What is zoysia grass? Is it viable in the Denver area climate?
K., Englewood, 3/17/03
|
| A:
|
Zoysia grass is a warm season grass that is not recommended for Colorado
lawns. Due to our climate, Zoysia is difficult to establish here.
Also, its hardiness is questionable and some winter die-back is likely.
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|
Q:
|
I live in Englewood, CO, and am preparing to install a sprinkler system. (I
have no lawn, just dirt at the moment). What type of drought resistant
grass would you recommend? I've been told Buffalo Grass is my best bet, but
wanted a second opinion. Also, I have 2 dogs. Can I still start my lawn from seed?
K.,
Englewood, 3/11/03
|
| A:
|
I strongly encourage you to check with your local water department about
existing and likely spring/summer watering restrictions. Some
communities may not allow new landscaping to be installed or may allow
only specific elements to be installed. You'll want to be sure you
will be able to water sufficiently anything you plant. Even
Xeriscape plants need regular watering for the first two growing seasons.
Buffalograss requires very little
water and is a good choice because of its drought tolerance. It is a
warm-season grass that greens up later in spring and turns brown earlier
in fall than Kentucky bluegrass. It doesn't have the lush appearance
of Kentucky bluegrass, and some people do not care for its appearance for
city and suburban settings. Several improved varieties are on the
market. You might want to look at samples before investing in seed,
plugs or sod. It requires a site with lots of sun, tolerates some
traffic and only occasionally needs mowing.
If Buffalograss doesn't suit your
situation, consider using tall fescue. When soil conditions allow it
to grow deep roots, it can require less water than Kentucky bluegrass.
It will tolerate shade and traffic well.
If you seed the lawn, for best
results you should keep the dogs off the newly seeded area for a few weeks
while the seeds germinate and the lawn becomes established.
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|
Q:
|
I have read great things about
Tatanka Buffalo grass. I have 1 acre outside of Fort Collins I want
to seed. Where can I purchase this fairly new turf-type buffalo
grass seed? S. J., Fort Collins, 2/15/03
|
| A:
|
I have found three places that
sell Tatanka Buffalograss:
Johnston Seed Company
P.O. Box 1392
Enid, OK 73702
800-375-4613
Arrow Seed Company
P.O. Box 722
Broken Bow, NE 68822
800-622-4727
Stock Seed Company
28008 Mill Rd.
Murdock, NE 68408-2350
800-759-1520
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Q:
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I have always heard that it is good
to leave your leaves on your grass to decompose. However, someone
today told me that the leaves can actually suck the nitrogen out of the
grass, therefore, killing it. Is this true? I recently raked
my leaves and put them all over my backyard to help my grass. But if
it is going to hurt it, I will bag them this weekend. Thank you for
your help! S. O., Broomfield, 11/8/02
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Using leaves as a mulch on your lawn
can create problems. When the leaves become wet, they can become
compacted and smother the turf by limiting air flow. Windy weather
will scatter them all over. If piled up, they may harbor rodents.
Some of the nitrogen in the soil that the leaves are in contact with will
be used as the leaves decompose, possibly creating nitrogen deficiency.
(This condition can be corrected by fertilizing the lawn in spring.).
Due to the possible problems the leaves may create, I recommend that you
rake them up. They can be composted and used to improve the soil, if
you wish. (If it was as windy in Broomfield as it was here today,
the leaves are probably gone!)
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Q:
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We have been planning on planting buffalo grass sod in our yard in
Erie this summer. Given the potential watering restrictions, I am trying to get some
information on how much watering the buffalo grass sod will really require
to get it established. (How many days per week for how long?)
And then, once it is established, how much will it need? I am okay
with letting it go dormant if necessary, but I want to be sure I don't
kill it to the point where it won't come back next year.
Also, if we were to wait a bit to plant it, what is the latest we
could plant it and have it do okay? Can we still plant it in
September, for instance? Is it a problem to plant it after it would
naturally go dormant?
We are basically pretty anxious to get something covering the dirt
because we have a dog who is bringing in dirt and mud every time it rains
even a tiny bit! So, I'm fine with the grass being brown this year,
but I just want to be sure we can do enough to make sure we don't kill it.
Any advice you can lend would be greatly appreciated. K. F., Erie,
6/3/02
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| A:
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Buffalo grass is a warm-season grass
that grows actively from May until fall. While sod can be planted
from late May through August, it is best to plant it in late May or early
June so that it can become well established prior to cool fall and winter
weather that cause it to go dormant.
Some varieties grown as sod that perform well in yards are '609,'
'315,' and '378.' Be sure to prepare the soil by clearing all weeds
with an herbicide such as "Roundup." Till the soil and
work in a starter fertilizer, using one pound of phosphorus and one pound
of nitrogen per 1000 sq. feet.
According to a fact sheet on buffalo grass published by the
Nebraska Cooperative Extension service, newly planted buffalo grass sod
should be watered every other day for the first week, every third day the
second week and once a week the third through fifth weeks. The goal
is to keep the soil slightly moist, not saturated, while the roots get
established. Water should not be allowed to puddle or run off.
On hot days a light watering of .125 inch or less applied mid-day will
cool the turf and prevent wilt. The sod may have an off-color
appearance during the first few weeks.
Right now Erie's watering restrictions are voluntary. If you
have concerns that this policy could change soon, please contact the town
to see what they advise about going ahead with sodding buffalo grass at
this time.
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Q:
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Is it difficult to introduce
Blue Grama grass seeds in an established lawn? P. H., Lakewood,
3/27/02
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It is difficult to renovate a lawn
by introducing a type of grass that is different from the existing lawn.
Often one is more aggressive than the other and takes over. Also,
their water and fertilization needs may not match.
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Q:
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Where can I find Blue grama
grass seed? P. H., Lakewood, 3/26/02
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Arkansas Valley Seeds as 4625
Colorado Blvd. in Denver carries Blue grama grass seed. They carry
recommended varieties such as Hachita, Lovington and native varieties.
Their phone number is 303-320-7500.
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Q:
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I have a question about crabgrass.
I've heard people say that the best way to get rid of it is to just pull it
up. I have so much ( that has crept over from a negligent neighbor's
yard) that I don't have the time or inclination to do that. Is there a
spray or something I can use? N. B., Denver, 7/13/01
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| A:
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There are several ways to deal with
crabgrass. Crabgrass grows from seeds that were deposited the previous
fall. In springtime you can use a "pre-emergent" herbicide
to prevent seeds from germinating -- something to consider for next year.
At this time of year you will need to spray a
"post-emergent" herbicide that is labeled as a crabgrass killer.
Any place that carries garden products will probably have some in
stock as this is a common lawn problem. Some products may temporarily
discolor the lawn. Depending on the outcome, you may need to repeat
the treatment. Be sure to water the lawn thoroughly the day before
treatment. Cloudy, cool weather may decrease the effectiveness of
sprays so check the weather forecast before spraying. Be sure to read
and follow all label directions.
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Q:
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After heavy rains, I see a lot of
toadstools and/or mushrooms growing in my lawn. How do I get rid of
them without hurting my lawn or pets? K.C., Aurora, 6/4/01
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Two safe remedies for mushrooms in the
lawn are core aeration of the lawn and mowing or removing them with a rake.
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Q:
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Question:
I laid a small section of sod last year. This year
there are places that have died. Can I plant seed there now?
What can I do to help replenish this grass? Thank you! P. J.,
Boulder, 5/30/01
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| A:
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To replenish the grass you should
cut or dig out the dead thatch. Till the soil. Add some
compost or organic matter and till it in. Then lay new sod pieces or
seed the areas. Keep the areas moist, but not soaking wet, until the
grass begins to be established.
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Q:
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My small backyard has been destroyed
by a new septic system. I am not supposed to water, as the entire
yard has been taken up by the system. I need to plant grass as soon
as possible, but need something that will be fast growing so that I do not
lose the dirt and that will not require much water. Can you help me
choose a grass that will fit these requirements? K. B., Arvada, 2/12/01
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| A:
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Given the situation you have described,
planting grass presents some problems. Keep in mind that whatever
you plant will need to be kept moist at first until the roots are
established. You can reduce the frequency of watering after a few
weeks. The most popular lawns are cool-season turf such as Kentucky Blue
Grass and Tall Fescue. They can be planted in early spring since
they grow best when the weather is cool. However, they require a
substantial amount of water throughout the year and therefore are not a
good choice for you. Instead, you should consider using Buffalograss,
a short native grass that requires little to no water. One
disadvantage: it is a warm-season grass that turns green and grows
actively only when the weather is warm in late spring and summer. It
is brown the rest of the year. It grows best in a sunny location.
You can plant seed April through June or lay sod from late May into
August. Even though you would need to wait a bit longer before
planting it, I think it would be an appropriate choice in your situation.
Recommended varieties include # 609, Prairie, Sharp's II, Cody and Plains.
An added advantage is that it doesn't require much mowing.
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Q:
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Can you
recommend a good grass seed? Thanks! S. K. J., Evergreen,
8/31/00 |
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I'm not sure what type of grass you prefer. If
you want a Kentucky bluegrass lawn use seed that is a blend of 2 to 5
Kentucky bluegrass cultivars. The end of August is a bit late to sow a lawn at
higher elevations.
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