| Q: |
I live in Olney Springs, CO, and
would like to grow a small vegetable garden. I have never grown vegetables
so I need A-Z help. I would like to grow tomatoes, cucumbers, okra,
eggplant, squash. Any info is appreciated. D., Olney Springs, 2/16/08 |
| A: |
There are several good websites
that provide information on growing vegetables in Colorado:
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| Q: |
We have been growing flowers and
recently vegetables in containers. We have fairly good luck but would like
more information. Are there any books or articles that you would recommend
on container gardening? L. A., Broomfield, 10/1 07 |
| A: |
There are lots of good books on
container gardening - both flower and vegetable gardening. We offer
Jack Kramer's Earthly Delights: Tubs of Tomatoes and Buckets
of Beans on our website. Crops in Pots
by Bob Purnell is a recently published book that features nice color
photos and "recipes" for planting vegetable containers. P.
Allen Smith's Container Gardens: 60 Container Recipes to Accent Your
Garden takes a similar approach with flowers in
containers.
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| Q: |
We live in Colorado Springs, CO,
at about an altitude of 7500'. It is starting to cool off now at night (50
-55 degrees) and our container tomato plants still have tons of green
tomatoes on them. We have brought the container inside (so they won't be
destroyed by hail) and set it in a sunny window that only gets sun about 3
hours a day. Will the tomatoes green up yet this year under these
circumstances or should we be content with "fried green tomatoes?" J. P.,
Colorado Springs, 8/25/07 |
| A: |
For information on ripening
tomatoes indoors please see
www.ext.colostate.edu/ptlk/1831.html. |
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| Q: |
I have an eggplant growing in a
container that is growing really well on my deck. It gets full sun all day
and is doing great. The only problem is, the blossoms are opening up,
staying for a couple of days and falling off. What can I do to stop this
from happening so I can get some eggplant. Thank you, N. H.,
Elko, NV; 7/8/07 |
| A: |
Blossom drop on eggplants is
often caused by weather conditions. For example, if daytime
temperatures are in the 90's or night temperatures are above 70 degrees,
you are likely to have blossom drop. Try to find a cooler location for
the plant.
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| Q: |
We're planning a garden here in
Loveland and I was wondering if you could recommend some cultivars of
asparagus. I have started from both crown and seeds before, but I'm not sure
what will grow best here.
Thanks, C. B., Loveland, 12/18/06 |
| A: |
Because direct seeding is often
accompanied by severe weed control problems, planting year-old asparagus
crowns is recommended. Some popular cultivars include Jersey Giant,
Jersey Knight, Jersey Prince, Greenwich, Mary Washington and Martha
Washington.
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| Q: |
Overall our tomato plants look
great! However we are seeing yellow and wilting leaves toward the
bottoms of the plants. Are these plants getting too much water or
not enough fertilizer? We are watering only once in 5 days and our
soil is very rocky and does contain some sand. Thank you for your
help. B. 7/1/06 |
| A: |
Yellowing of lower leaves can be a sign
that tomato plants need more fertilizer. It is important to fertilize
them right away.
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| Q: |
I'm going to be moving to a
place near the Denver area called Lakewood. I was wondering what types
of vegetables will grown in a garden in that area. I'm moving from
Virginia with hot humid summers. Can you tell me if you can grow
tomatoes, green beans, sweet corn, yellow squash, zucchini, Brussel
sprouts, broccoli, or green onions in that area? Are there any herbs
that will grow out there? Thank you for any help you can give me.
B. B., 2/7/06 |
| A: |
All the vegetables that you named in
your email grow in Lakewood, Colorado. Commonly grown herbs also grow
there. Lakewood is not located in the mountains and is well suited to
gardening. |
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| Q: |
We have recently moved here
from LA so I'm not used to, or very knowledgeable, about the climate
here. I'm trying to plan my yard for this year and have a few
questions I hope you can answer.
We're in Louisville. Is that generally considered to be zone
3 planting or can I get away with planting any zone 4 or higher?
Also I'm wanting to start some raised vegetable beds and many of
the seed packets say plant indoors or outdoors x weeks before the last
frost. When is the last frost generally considered to be?
Can you recommend a good top soil/ compost mix for topping up my
raised vegetable beds and do you know a good local source for me to get
it from?
Will the Honeycrisp apple tree grow here?
And lastly, can you recommend a good all round Colorado gardening
book that also contains lists of plants that do well here, and includes
a section on fruits and vegetable gardening?
Sorry for the barrage of questions, although I'm sure I'll have
more along the way!! I'm really glad I found your website. It's a
great resource. Thanks, J. F., Louisville, 1/25/06 |
| A: |
Louisville is in USDA hardiness zone 5.
The last frost for your area is usually
around Mother's Day in May. Several
garden centers and home improvement stores
carry top soil or compost mix, such
as Lowe's and Home Depot in Louisville,
Ace Hardware and Lafayette Florist in
Lafayette, and McGucken's, Ace
Hardware and Sutherlands in Boulder. Yes,
the Honeycrisp apple is very well-suited to
this area. Barbara Hyde, the retired CSU
Cooperative Extension horticulture agent for
Boulder County, has a set of books that
include plant lists, and information on
vegetables and fruits. The books are
written for the serious home gardener and
cover many important gardening topics. (Few
books cover vegetables and fruits for this
area.) Her books are Gardening in the
Mountain West and Progress of
a Gardener. Both are available on
the Colorado Gardening website.
Welcome to
Colorado. I hope you will enjoy living and
gardening here.
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| Q: |
I know my last frost date, and
I've consulted a Gardening Calendar, but I'll be growing vegetables in a
small (6' x 9') greenhouse. Can you give me a rule of thumb for how much
earlier I can plant in a greenhouse? If it helps, I'm at 6900 feet altitude
in southern Colorado. D. W., Rye, 12/28/05 |
| A: |
I do not
have information on a rule of thumb for
planting in greenhouses. However, I did
locate two fact sheets that I think may be
helpful. Please see "Growing Vegetables in
a Hobby Greenhouse" at
www.ext.colostate.edu/pubs/garden/07852.html.
Also, you may want to read "Growing Plants
from Seed" at
www.ext.colostate.edu/pubs/garden/07409.html. |
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| Q: |
I am growing tomatoes in containers. Early blossoms set
fruit, but now the new blossoms are falling off ( the little flowers turn
yellow, then brown and fall off). V. M., Vancouver, WA; 7/17/05 |
| A: |
Blossom drop, a common tomato problem, has several possible
causes. Too much nitrogen fertilizer, dry conditions and temperature
extremes are frequent ones. Tomatoes prefer night temperatures between
55 and 75 degrees and daytime temperatures below 90 degrees. The
blossoms don't set fruit because they aren't pollinated. Water the
plants deeply and use mulch to limit evaporation. |
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| Q: |
Do you have any
suggestions on the material and height of a protective shelter for a
vegetable garden approximately 18 ft by 24 ft? I normally plant tomatoes,
peppers, peas, beans and zucchini. Last summer we received a large hail
storm in early August. This year we already received a small hail storm. S.
K., 6/18/05 |
| A: |
Barbara Hyde, author of
Gardening in the Mountain West,
suggests placing Number 9 wire or plastic irrigation pipe as a
half circle over vegetable rows. Use several hoops per row.
Cover this frame with nylon or wire poultry netting. Much of
the hail will be sliced into smaller pieces or bounce off,
causing less damage. As an added benefit you can use the frame
to support floating row covers in spring and fall for frost
protection. The hoops should be high enough to prevent plants
from touching the wire or row cover. |
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| Q: |
I am looking for a listing of
companion plants - specifically for my vegetable garden and flower beds -
any plants that work together for mutual benefit, insect control, nitrogen
fixing, etc. Is there more info available? K. H., Hudson, 6/6/05 |
| A: |
For information and
lists of companion plants please see
http://paipm.cas.psu.edu/pdf/POP/complants.pdf.
Also please see
http://member.melbpc.org.au/~slees/companionrotationtable.htm.
Books on organic gardening often include information on
companion plants. |
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| Q: |
I live in Highlands Ranch and have
sandy soil. I want to amend the soil to grow tomatoes. What are
the proper amendments to successfully grow tomatoes and how is it applied to
the soil? T. S., Highlands Ranch, 5/11/05 |
| A: |
Spread a one inch layer
of compost over the soil and work it in about seven to
twelve inches deep. (Due to problems with e-coli
bacteria, cow manure is no longer recommended for use in
vegetable gardens.) You may also want to mix in a slow
release granular fertilizer for tomatoes. After
planting the tomatoes be sure to spread a layer of mulch
over the soil. Straw, grass clippings from grass that
doesn't have weed killers used on it, or bark chips are
some possible choices. The mulch helps to protect the
tomatoes from disease. Keep the soil evenly moist.
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| Q:
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When is the best time in Colorado to
plant vegetables? R. M., Denver, 4/23/05 |
| A: |
Because some vegetables don't
tolerate cold temperatures and others don't tolerate summer heat, they are
planted at different times based on this trait. Cool season vegetables
can be planted about 4 weeks before the average last frost date. In
Denver you can plant them in mid-April. Cool season vegetables include
peas, radishes, lettuce, spinach, onions, broccoli, cabbage and turnips.
In early May you can plant beets, carrots and corn. Wait until late
May to plant tomato and pepper transplants, beans, squash, cucumbers and
melons. |
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| Q:
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Hi- We haven't had much luck
with tomatoes in the past so we planted our garden with mums. They do
well and look great - however I want tomatoes and I'm thinking that pots on
the deck might do better. Is it too late to start seeds?
If so, what kind of plants do best in pots, etc.? I'd like to
grow medium size round tomatoes. Any advice would be greatly
appreciated. Thanks, F., Castle Rock, 4//8/05 |
| A: |
Tomatoes can be
started indoors from seed in April. (Many seed packets suggest
starting them indoors six to eight weeks before transplanting them
outdoors.) Most types of tomatoes can be grown in containers.
For tips on growing them in containers please see the fact sheet "Growing
Cucumbers, Peppers, Squash and Tomatoes in Containers" at
http://ohioline.osu.edu/hyg-fact/1000/1645.html. |
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| Q: |
We've lived in Colorado 4 years and
still have difficulty with tomatoes. Which varieties grow and mature
well here?? K. N., Aurora, 3/16/05
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| A: |
For tips on growing tomatoes please
visit
http://www.coloradogardening.com/ and click on Garden Articles in the
menu. Click on "Growing Tasty Tomatoes." You will find some varieties that
do well in Colorado listed in the article. Additional varieties that do
well here include Better Boy, Big Boy, Fantastic and Sungold (a cherry
tomato).
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| Q: |
I just found this site and it's now in
my favorites. Thank you and I look forward to much help from you.
We are planting a vegetable garden, for the 1st time in Colorado (Littleton)
and I need to know if there is a guide so that I know what to plant when?
I would also like to start vegetables and flowers from seed, inside.
Would there also be a guide for me to use and helps with doing this?
Thanks, J. S., Littleton, 3/13/05 |
| A: |
I found two articles that I
think you will find helpful. Please see "Growing Plants from Seed" at
www.ext.colostate.edu/pubs/garden/07409.html. Although this
article begins by describing the construction and use of a cold frame it
eventually provides information on starting plants indoors from seed.
You might also like to read "Vegetable Garden Hints" at
www.cmg.colostate.edu/cmg-factsheets/veg/v18-hints.pdf.
Planting directions often refer to the average frost-free date. In your
area that date is around Mother's Day. If you have additional questions
after reading these articles, I would be happy to track down more
information for you. Good luck with your garden. |
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| Q: |
What plants (vegetables and
flowers) grow best in Bailey, Colorado? C. H., Bailey, 3/7/05
|
| A: |
With an elevation over 9500
feet, vegetable choices are somewhat limited. Vegetables that
prefer cool weather are best, such as peas, carrots, radishes,
lettuce, spinach and green onions.
There are a number of flowers that
grow at high elevations. For growing tips and a list of these
please see
http://www.ext.colostate.edu/. Click on "Horticulture."
Click on "Fact Sheets." Click on "Flowers." Click on # 7.406
"Flowers for Mountain Communities."
You might consider using flowering
shrubs in your yard. Some hardy shrubs for high elevations include
Lilac (Syringa vulgaris), Persian Lilac (Syringa persica),
Cinquefoil (Potentilla fruticosa), Siberian Peashrub (Caragana
arborescens) and Jamesia (Jamesia americana).
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| Q:
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I just moved into a house that
has a vegetable garden already growing. There is leaf lettuce, onions,
carrots, cherry tomatoes, tomatoes, zucchini, and pumpkins. My
question is when as I supposed to harvest these vegetables? The
tomatoes and the pumpkins I know about but I'm totally unsure as to what to
do with the zucchini. Some of the plants look pretty sickly.
There are a few zucchinis still growing and the plant is still producing
flowers. When should I just remove all of it and let the pumpkins have
the entire garden until harvest for them? P. T., Greeley, 9/14/04
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| A:
|
Here are a few notes
regarding harvesting the vegetables in your garden:
Leaf lettuce: You can
harvest the entire plant all at once or you can snap off just the
outer lettuce leaves as you need them, allowing the plant to
continue producing new leaves a bit longer. You should harvest
the entire plant prior to the first hard frost.
Onions: Onions are ready to
harvest when you can see the onion poking up above the surface
slightly and the tops begin to topple over.
Carrots: Do a taste test of
a sample carrot. If it is bitter, wait a bit longer before
harvesting the carrots. If sweet, they are ready to pull up.
Zucchini: Harvest zucchini
when it is about five inches long. You can let the plants
continue to grow and produce until a hard frost kills them.
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| Q:
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What causes the rot on the
bottom of the tomatoes? K. W., Salt Lake City, UT; 7/30/04
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| A:
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Rot on the bottom of
tomatoes is known as blossom end rot. Excessive heat or cold
during blossom set combined with fluctuations in the amount of water
the plants receive can cause this condition. Keep plants
evenly moist (mulch will help) and fertilize them regularly.
Avoid planting tomatoes too early when cold weather may occur.
Walls-o-Water may be helpful when planting in spring.
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| Q:
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What is the recommended material
for walls of a raised bed garden? K. L., Lyons, 2/15/04
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| A:
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Wood, such as redwood or cedar, is
commonly used for raised beds. Rock or cinder blocks are also used.
If you are planting herbs, fruits or vegetables in the beds, do not use
railroad ties or CCA pressure treated lumber, as these can leach toxic
chemicals into the soil.
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| Q:
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What makes my tomatoes get dark spots on the bottom of the plant?
D. W., Milford, KS; 5/5/03
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| A:
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The dark spots on the bottom of
the tomato plants are an indication of blossom end rot. It occurs
due to a combination of temperature and water conditions: cold or hot
temperatures during blossom set combined with inconsistent amounts of
water. This combination results in calcium becoming unavailable to
the plant. You can prevent blossom end rot by not planting tomatoes
too early in the season. Also, you need to keep the soil
consistently moist. A layer of mulch can help maintain moisture.
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| Q:
|
Hi - I am interested in starting a garden this summer. I have never done
this before. I am looking primarily at vegetables, but need some
questions answered.
1) When do I need to start planting?
2) What vegetables can handle full sun?
3) Is it better to plant directly into the ground or in a raised planter?
4) What type of soil should I use?
5) Where is the best place to buy seeds?
Thank you in advance for any comments! E. H., Golden,
4/15/03
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| A:
|
In response to your questions:
1) The dates for planting vegetables vary depending on the plant's
hardiness.
2) Almost all vegetables do well in full sun. Most of them require
it.
3) If you wish, you can plant in the ground. You will need to till
the soil and add compost to improve it. Raised beds are a good idea.
They are convenient because they require less bending to tend. They
should be filled with good quality soil, either ready-made or a homemade
mixture. Raised beds are often used where garden soil is poor.
4) If you are going to plant in the ground, add compost to the soil at a
rate of one pound per square foot. Also add triple superphosphate at
a rate of one pound per 100 square feet. These should be mixed
thoroughly and evenly into the soil.
5) Seeds are available at garden centers, home improvement stores, by mail
order and online. Due to Colorado's unique growing conditions, some
varieties perform better here than others. For a list of these
please contact the Jefferson County Extension office at 303-271-6620 or
visit the CSU Cooperative Extension website at www.ext.colostate.edu to
obtain a copy of Fact Sheet 7.600. They also have several other fact
sheets that would help you, such as
7.603 Planning the Vegetable Garden
(includes planting times for vegetables)
7.604 Vegetable Root Crops
7.605 Tomatoes for the Home Garden
7.608 Leafy Vegetable Crops
7.609 Cucumbers, Pumpkins, Squash ...
Several additional topics are available and can be read online or printed.
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| Q:
|
Our zucchini plants are large and
healthy looking. There are lots of blossoms and they last about 3 or 4
days and then dry up and fall off. We aren't getting any squash.
Any suggestions? J. B., Lakewood, 7/24/02
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| A:
|
Your zucchini plants may be producing
male flowers at this time. After several male flowers are produced the
female flowers will appear. Another possible problem is that the
fruits won't set if there is insufficient pollination by bees and other
insects. Keep the plants well watered and don't apply high nitrogen
fertilizers. Too much nitrogen results in lots of leaves but little
fruit production.
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| Q:
|
Hi! I live in Longmont Co.
This is the first time I have tried to grow ichiban eggplant plants and some
Okra plants. I water my plants regularly and aerate the soil in the raised
bed on a weekly basis. I have noticed that something is eating my veggie
plant leaves and wish to get rid of the insect/disease causing this. Can you
suggest any harmless/organic pesticides and fungicides. Also, I noticed that
there are some tiny green things on the bottom side of the leaves. Are these
bugs eating up my plants? How do I get rid of them? Please advise. A.
B., Longmont, 7/9/02
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| A:
|
The first step to take to get rid of the
bugs is to try washing them off with a jet of water from the hose. If
that doesn't get rid of them sufficiently you may want to spray the plants
with an insecticidal soap labeled for use on vegetables. More toxic
insecticides are also available for use on vegetables. Unless the bugs
are doing a lot of damage you probably should avoid using them. Be
sure to read and follow directions carefully using only a product that is
labeled for use on vegetables. From what you have told me, I don't
believe you have a fungus problem and use of a fungicide isn't necessary.
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| Q:
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Good morning. I would like to
plant a garden with vegetables... tomatoes, broccoli, corn, onions and
whatever else might grow here... Is it too late in the season to start?...
It has been very hot and although I live in the city, I have a perfect place
in my backyard for a great garden... Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks. S. L., Lakewood, 7/9/02
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| A:
|
While July is too late to plant many
vegetables, there are some vegetables that can be planted in the summer and
harvested in fall. These include beets, bush beans, celery, lettuce,
radishes, spinach, Swiss chard and turnips.
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| Q:
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I am having trouble growing my green
beans. Can you tell me what kind of soil they grow best in?
Should I incorporate lime in the soil? I'm using steer manure for
fertilizer, but the green beans seem pale and have strange markings on the
leaves. Thx for any tips you can provide. A. L., Denver, 6/19/02
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| A:
|
Beans prefer soils that are rich in
organic matter, such as compost. They require well drained soil.
They do not like soils with a high salt content. Most of the soil in
Colorado is alkaline; therefore, do not add lime. (Adding lime is a common
practice when you have highly acidic soils.)
Using steer manure in vegetable gardens is no longer recommended.
Disease pathogens such as E. coli may be present, creating a potential
health hazard. In addition, steer manure tends to be high in salt -
and beans are sensitive to high salt levels in the soil.
Be sure the beans are receiving plenty of water. Dropping
blossoms, color changes and production of pollywog-shaped beans are signs of
insufficient water.
The strange markings on the leaves are a concern because they may
indicate the presence of a disease, especially if beans were planted
previously in the same spot. It is important to rotate crops over a
three year period to prevent bean diseases.
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| Q:
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I am having a horrible time finding
organic starters of lettuce, spinach, etc. Any ideas? C. S.,
Fraser, 6/9/02
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| A:
|
I do not know which garden centers carry
organic starters. I suggest that you contact the Front Range Organic
Gardeners club to find out what information they might have. The
contact person is Linda Tegtmeier. Her e-mail address is
goldstarauctions@juno.com and her phone number is 303-744-7871. A
source for organic seeds on the Internet is Johnny's Selected Seeds at
www.johnnyseeds.com.
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| Q:
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This year I got my spinach and
peas in early. Do I need to cover these plants in cold weather? How cold is
too cold for them? What is a "killing frost"? R. M., Denver,
4/19/02
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| A:
|
Spinach and peas are
"cool-season" vegetables that prefer cool temperatures and can
tolerate a light to moderate frost. You don't need to cover them until
the temperatures fall below 30 degrees F. or possibly lower. A frost
that is so severe or untimely that it kills plants instead of just damaging
them is called a "killing frost." Killing frosts tend to
occur in late spring or early fall when plant tissues are unable to cope
with sudden cold temperatures
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| Q:
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I covered my garden area last
fall with straw. Should I till it into the soil or remove it before I
till? N. R., Longmont, 3/26/02
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| A:
|
Preferably, you should remove the
straw, compost it, and then incorporate it into the soil. If that will
be a problem, then you can just till it into the soil. As the straw
decomposes it will deplete a portion of the nitrogen in the soil; therefore,
you may need to apply additional nitrogen fertilizer to the garden.
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| Q:
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Hello. I just wanted to ask
about soil for tomato plants. We live in Kansas and our cherry tomatoes grow
really good and taste good but our bigger tomatoes turn to crap before they
get ripe. They split and turn black before we can pick them, Can you
tell me what I need to do to get our regular size tomatoes to grow?
This has happened to us for 2 years now. L. B., Towanda, KS; 3/5/02
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| A:
|
The problems you have described are
more likely due to watering than to soil. Splitting is often caused by
alternating wet and dry conditions. It can also be caused by too much
nitrogen fertilizer.
If the tomatoes turn black on the bottom, opposite to where
they are attached to the stem, they probably have blossom-end rot.
This condition can also be caused by cycles of wet and dry soil; that is,
soaking it, letting it dry out completely, soaking it, etc. This
practice prevents the plant from absorbing calcium from the soil properly.
Overly cold or hot weather during blossom set can also cause it. Other
possible factors include high soil salt content or heavy soil.
To prevent this problem you should amend the soil with compost.
Do not use manure because it has a high salt content and may contain harmful
bacteria. Place a 3 - 5 inch layer of mulch over the bed to help
retain moisture. Keep the soil evenly moist -- but not soggy, and do
not let it dry out completely. Use a fertilizer recommended for
tomatoes, avoiding high nitrogen fertilizers. Unfortunately, you can't
control fluctuations in the weather that may be a factor. If you
follow these guidelines but continue to have problems you may want to do a
soil sample test.
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| Q:
|
I am moving to Colorado Springs and am
interested in knowing the growing season for fruits and vegetables and if
you have a lot of fresh local produce year round. We live in
California now and eat only fresh fruits and vegetables. Thank you.
S. B., Salida, CA, 2/9/02
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| A:
|
Fresh produce, including produce from
organic growers, is readily available year round at supermarkets.
However, produce is not locally grown during winter because the ground
freezes and temperatures are too cold. Beginning in spring (April and
May), vegetables are planted in succession depending on their tolerance to
cold and frost. Locally grown produce is ample during late spring
through fall at farmer's markets, roadside stands, and supermarkets.
If you plan to grow fruits and vegetables, I suggest that you contact CSU
Cooperative Extension and request that they send you copies of their free
fact sheets on growing fruits and vegetables in Colorado. Several fact
sheets are available on this topic and they are highly informative.
You can also access them on the CSU website. Another good source for
information is Planttalk Colorado. Please see my website
www.coloradogardening.com and look in the menu for "Resources" to
get more information about these sites and services. You can contact
the Cooperative Extension office for the Colorado Springs area by mail at
305 South Union Blvd., Colorado Springs, CO 80910-3123; by phone:
719-636-8920, and by E-mail: elpaso@coop.ext.colostate.edu.
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| Q:
|
I would like to grow pumpkins
next year from the seeds of the pumpkins that I purchased this year. What
are the growing conditions, sun, time of year to plant, water, soil etc.?
I have never grown pumpkins before. I have great success with
flowers, but I am very unsuccessful with veggies. J. C., Aurora,
10/21/01
|
| A:
|
Pumpkin seeds should be planted
about a week after the average last spring frost date -- mid or late May in
your area. You may start seedlings indoors. However, pumpkins do not
like to have their roots disturbed, so plant the seeds in compressed peat
moss pots that are then planted, pot and all, in the ground. If you
prefer, you can plant seeds directly in the ground. Choose a sunny
location. Before planting, add fertilizer and work it into the top
four inches of the soil. One pound of Nitrogen and two pounds of
triple superphosphate per 1000 square feet are suggested. To provide
good drainage, build up a little hill, or mound, of soil for planting the
seeds or transplants. Plants will need about 1 to 1 1/2 inches of water each
week during the summer.
I recommend that you call your county CSU Cooperative Extension
office and request a free copy of Fact sheet # 7.609 on growing pumpkins.
You might also wish to listen to the Planttalk Colorado message #
1807. Call 1-888-666-3063 and follow the prompts.
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I am growing pumpkins this year.
I have had a lot of male flowers already that have bloomed and fallen off.
There is only one green pumpkin developing on this whole vine! Since it is
still blooming, but seemingly only with the male flowers, can I expect a
poor showing off this vine? Or is this one pumpkin just an "early
bird" with more to come? Hope you can help. J. P.,
Denver, 8/18/01
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| A:
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I'm sorry I haven't found any
information on how to encourage the growth of more pumpkins on vines with
seemingly only male flowers. It is common for pumpkin plants to
produce several male flowers before producing female flowers and setting
fruit. If only one pumpkin is produced I would question the
quality of the vine. Hopefully that one pumpkin will be a real winner in
size!
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| Q:
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What time of year do I need to harvest
my sage? Is it in a certain moon? I have heard that before
from some older person, but they have since died. Please advise if you
have any information on this. L. B., 8/16/01
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| A:
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You can pick sage leaves anytime
when using them fresh. Sage leaves can be harvested for drying two or
three times a year. In late spring and mid-summer cut off 6" -
8" sprigs (up to one third of the plant) just as flower blossoms begin
to appear. Many herbs have their best flavor immediately prior to flowering.
Harvest herbs mid-morning after any dew has dried and before the sun's
heat affects oils in the leaves. For winter protection of the plants,
avoid harvesting sage after early fall.
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My son is growing pumpkins for the
second year. Last year we only had about 4 pumpkins from a large
pumpkin patch. So far we only have one growing this year. Is
there something we should do to encourage more pumpkins? And how do we
protect them from squirrels? R. M., Thornton, 7/30/01
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| A:
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A number of factors will affect
production of pumpkins including weather, improper fertilization and watering
practices and lack of pollinators. Be sure to select a variety of
pumpkins recommended for Colorado. For detailed information on these
topics please contact your county CSU Cooperative Extension office (the
phone numbers are listed under Resources on my website) and request
factsheet # 7.609. Also, call Planttalk Colorado at 1-888-666-3063 and
enter the topic numbers 1807 "Growing Great Pumpkins" and 1801
"Baby Pumpkins."
To protect the pumpkins from squirrels you might try building a
cover for the patch using chicken wire. Better luck next year.
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I have been raising tomatoes here in
Rangely for years. The plants are large and vigorous, there are lots
of tomatoes, but they are only about half the size that they are advertised
to be. Is there something I should add? Do they need to be
pruned? J. M., Rangely, 7/27/01
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| A:
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I doubt there is something that you
should add to improve the size of the tomatoes. Rather than pruning
the plants you might try thinning out the crop of tomatoes in hopes that the
tomatoes that remain on the vines will get bigger. So many factors
affect production: quality and condition of the seeds or transplants,
soil conditions, light, weather, use of fertilizers, water, etc. Then,
of course, the advertisement's claims as to tomato size may have been
exaggerated! You might like to contact your county CSU Cooperative
Extension office (the phone numbers are listed on my website in the
resources section) and request Fact sheets # 7.605 "Tomatoes in the
Home Garden" and # 2.949 "Recognizing Tomato Problems."
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I live in the area of Crawford, CO
and would like to begin gardening and greenhouse growing. Originally from
Texas, I am not familiar with the area's vegetation and would like to know
the best growing vegetables and herbs for this area. If you could help I
would be most appreciative. M. S., Paonia, 6/7/01
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| A:
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CSU Cooperative Extension has an
extensive list of vegetables that do well in Colorado. The list
names specific varieties that perform well here. Call the Delta County
Extension office (720-913-5270) and request that they mail fact sheet #
7.600 "Vegetable Recommendations" to you. Since you are
new to Colorado, I suggest that you ask for fact sheet # 7.220
"Gardening in Colorado -- A Challenge for Newcomers" as well.
Other factsheets on vegetables that you might find helpful include:
# 7.603 "Planning the Vegetable Garden"
# 7.604 "Vegetable Root Crops"
# 7.605 "Tomatoes for the Home Garden"
# 7.607 "Sweet Corn for the Garden"
# 7.608 "Leafy Vegetable Crops"
# 7.609 "Cucumbers, Pumpkins, Squash, Muskmelons and Watermelons for
the Home Garden"
# 7.610 "Potatoes for the Home Garden"
# 9.335 "Growing, Preserving and Using Herbs"
Generally, fact sheets are provided free. Good luck with your
garden.
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I am trying to find
information about a plant that, I was told, is called a "Jewish
Artichoke". I have looked at several plant encyclopedias to no
avail. The root part of this plant looks like a white skin potato,
somewhat bulbous and elongated. Depending on the maturity of the
plant the size can range from about 2" in diameter to a baseball
size. I have also been told this is an edible plant. Any
assistance on this matter would be greatly appreciated. R. A.,
Lakewood, 5/28/01
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| A:
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I have never heard of
"Jewish Artichoke." However, I have heard of Jerusalem
Artichoke (Helianthus tuberosus). The plant grows 6 - 7 feet tall
and has yellow flowers. The tubers, which match your description,
are edible and are sometimes called sunchokes. The plant might be
able to grow in some parts of Colorado.
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I want to rototill some
compost into my vegetable garden. I have clay soil mixed with garden
fill that I had brought in last year. Is there any special compost
mix that I should use? When is a good time to rototill? M. C.,
4/9/01
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| A:
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You can rototill as soon as the
soil is no longer frozen. There is no special compost mix that you
should use, but do add compost to the soil to improve the texture of the
soil. Compost containing manure should not be use for a vegetable
garden because E-coli or other harmful bacteria may be present.
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| Q:
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My husband and I are planning
on moving to Colorado next spring. My question is this: Can
you have a vegetable garden in Colorado? We are coming from Indiana
and your land looks to be pretty sparse and rocky compared to our dark
soil and green, grassy Indiana land. We have horses and I was
planning on using their "leftovers" and soiled bedding as a base
to till into the land for a garden spot, but I am not sure if that will be
enough. Thank you for any answers you can give. T. R.,
Indianapolis, IN; 1/16/01
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| A:
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It indeed is possible to have a vegetable garden in Colorado, but as you have observed, the soil can be a challenge. You will need to amend the soil with organic matter (compost). The use of fresh manure generally is discouraged because it may harbor disease organisms and weed seeds, and it often has a high level of salt. Manure should be composted for one year before use. Bedding, hay, straw, grass clippings (from grass that hasn't been treated with insecticides or herbicides), sawdust and compost are some additional soil amendments. Incidentally, raised beds for vegetable gardens are popular here because of soil conditions.
Colorado State University Cooperative Extension has several factsheets available free to gardeners that I think you would find helpful. They list varieties of various vegetables that perform well here, dates to plant, and other valuable tips. If you let me know what county you'll be living in, I'll send you the number of the county extension office. Also, Denver Botanic Gardens recently published an informative
booklet, "Vegetable Gardening in the Rockies" (Mountain, Plain and Garden Magazine, Vol. 57, Number 1, Spring/Summer 2000) that is available for $4.95 at their gift shop. You can contact them at 720-865-3595.
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I am wondering how do I grow tomatoes
in a large outdoor pot. I have tried for the past 3 years and they
keep burning up. I only need two plants, one cherry and one
regular. I have them planted in 5 gal. decorative planters.
How often should I water them? How often should I put fertilizer on
them and what kind? D. L., Greeley, 10/1/00 |
| A:
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There are a number of things that could cause tomatoes to burn up: too little water, too much fertilizer, too much reflected heat off hot walls and/or the patio, etc.
Plants grown in containers need frequent watering -- usually daily on hot summer days with our low humidity. Tomatoes like water, and the soil must be kept moist. Therefore, you should check on them daily.
Use a water-soluble fertilizer made for vegetables or tomatoes such as Miracle
Gro. Read and follow the label directions that explain how to mix the solution of fertilizer and water for use in containers. Too much fertilizer results in fewer tomatoes and can cause fertilizer burn of foliage. Don't fertilize the plants when the soil is dry or the temperature is over 85°
F.
Your containers may need to be relocated. For example, if they are on the south or west side of the house and get reflected heat off hot walls, move them out away from the walls.
'Sweet 100' is a good cherry tomato for containers. Some good slicing varieties include 'Big Beef' and 'Celebrity.'
Better luck next summer with your tomatoes. |
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| Q:
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I recently moved to Parker and was told our covenant does
not allow us to have a vegetable garden. Could you please send me
some information on growing vegetables in containers. That, they
will allow. Thank you. From J. S., Parker, 5/5/00 |
| A:
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While your
covenants seem quite restrictive, let's look on the bright side:
growing vegetables in containers offers several advantages. These
include less bending over to tend plants, no problems from pests and
diseases that live in the soil, no back-breaking digging and
rototilling, little weeding, etc. Vegetables can be grown
successfully in containers when a few basic principles are followed:
1) Select large (minimum 12 inch diameter
and 15 inch depth) containers that have drain holes. Oak
half-barrels, wooden planter boxes and large plastic pots work
well. Avoid clay pots--they dry out too fast. Insert
trellises and stakes for plants that like to climb.
2) Select sites for the containers that
provide the proper amount of sunlight for the plants being grown.
Most plants need at least six hours of sun a day.
3) Fill the containers with potting soil,
not dirt from your yard. The potting mix should include compost,
peat moss and perlite or vermiculite.
4). Add a slow-release fertilizer to the
soil. Additional fertilization with a liquid fertilizer may be
necessay as the plants are growing.
5) When purchasing plants or seeds, select
varieties that are described as compact or dwarf.
6) Water pots when the top inch or two of
soil feels dry. In hot weather this is daily or even twice a
day.
Here is some information on varieties
of vegetables that grow well in Colorado and also do well in containers.
Another thought, will your covenants allow you to construct raised
beds? They are highly recommended for growing vegetables in
Colorado due to our heavy clay soil.
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BEANS
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BEETS
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CABBAGE
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CARROTS
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Jade
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Pacemaker
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Dynamo
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Thumbelina
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Royal Burgundy
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Action
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Golden Acre
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Chantenay
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| Derby |
Golden
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Danvers Half-long
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Pablo
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Nantes Coreless
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Little
Ball
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| CAULIFLOWER
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COLLARDS
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CUCUMBERS
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EGGPLANT
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| Snow Crown
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Vates
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Burpless Bush |
Dusky |
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Fanfare
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Easter Egg
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KALE
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LETTUCE
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ONIONS
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PEAS
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| Showbor
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Rouge Salad Bowl
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White Sweet
Spanish
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Oregon
Sugar Pod
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Winter Density
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Yellow
Sweet Spanish |
Maestro
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Slobolt
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Sugar
Ann
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Black-seeded
Simpson
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Progress # 9
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| PEPPERS
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PUMPKINS
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RADISHES
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SPINACH
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| Northstar
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Jack Be Little
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French Breakfast
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Bloomsdale
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| Jingle Bells
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Cherry Belle
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| SQUASH
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SWISS
CHARD
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TOMATOES
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TURNIPS
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| Pasta
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Fordhook Giant
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Sungold
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Purple Top White Globe
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Sundrop
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Rhubarb
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Big Beef
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| Cream
of the Crop
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Celebrity
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