| Q: |
I live in Massachusetts.
Currently it's about 80 degrees out. I just bought a house that's been empty
for over 2 years and the weeds around the back yard are taller than me!!!!!
I've tried cutting them in half then pulling them out of the ground but we
are talking about 1/4 acre worth. There is no grass under them...just soil.
I'd like to plant grass for next year. Is there an easier way to get rid of
all the weeds without pulling each one out of the ground by hand? Some of
the roots are up to 3 feet long? PLEASE HELP. M. A., Blackstone, MA;
9/4/07 |
| A:
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In some ways you are lucky
there is no grass growing along with the weeds. That allows you to
kill/clear the weeds without having to protect the grass. I suggest
that you spray the weeds with Roundup. It kills plants, including the
roots. Protect any plants you don't want killed from the spray. You
can rake the dead weeds and prepare the soil for sod or seed in about
two weeks after the application of herbicide.
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| Q: |
We live in Debeque, CO, and we
have those horrible weeds that produce goatheads. No matter what
we do they don't go away. We have tried tilling, pulling and weed
killers. On top of it all they still keep coming back. Please
help! A., Debeque, 7/2/07 |
| A:
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The reason the puncture vine (goathead) keeps
coming back is there are seeds buried in the soil that germinate. Using a
pre-emergent weed killer for broadleaf weeds in early spring may help.
Roundup will kill plants that have sprouted. Note: It will also kill the
lawn and desired plants too if any gets on them. It is vital that you kill
the plants before they produce seeds. It may take a while to get this weed
under control. For more information please see
www.ext.colostate.edu/ptlk/2109.html. |
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| Q: |
Hi. I have a front yard that is
currently all dirt & weeds. We are planning to xeriscape the area.
What is the best way to get rid of all the existing weeds when we do? Also,
I have an organic garden in back (we just bought the house) that is also
FULL of weeds ( I didn't realize they could grow so quickly). What is the
best way to get rid of the weeds & keep them gone -organically - before I
plant? Can I just use a rototiller to re-do the soil or do I really have to
pull them all up? ~ New to gardening in Lakewood, CO. I. T.,
Lakewood, 4/19/05 |
| A:
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To get rid of weeds in your front
yard you may want to spray them with Roundup. This herbicide kills
all plants, so don't let it drift onto plants or lawn that you want
to keep.
There is no easy way to get rid of
weeds organically. You will probably need to hoe or pull them up.
A tip: it is easier to pull weeds when the soil is slightly moist.
Before you plant the garden, prepare the soil for planting and water
it. Allow it to sit unplanted for a couple of weeks so weed seeds
can germinate and be cleared before you plant. Another method to
use it to cover the soil with heavy plastic for 1 - 2 months to
solarize it. This can kill diseases, insects and some seeds. Using
mulch also cuts down on weeds. You can use a rototiller to get rid
of the weeds, but that potentially may create more of them in the
long run. Rototilling will bring up weed seeds buried in the soil
and it chops up roots into multiple pieces, some of which can
sprout.
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| Q: |
Hi, I live in Pine Brook Hills area
and my yard is full of spurge aka myrtle spurge or donkeytail spurge.
I am pulling them out but don't know if this the best thing I can do to get
rid of them. Is there a better and more efficient way? Also, what is the
best way to get rid of Canadian thistles? I am cutting the root about
1 inch below the surface using a dandelion digger and people tell me that's
not effective. I had someone spray the thistles last year but they popped
again this year. Thank you. D. M., Boulder, 4/14/05
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| A:
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To get rid
of myrtle spurge you can dig up mature plants, being
careful to get the roots, and you can pull up new
seedlings. It is easier to do weeding
when the soil is slightly moist. You can also
kill plants by spraying them with Roundup.
This is an herbicide that kills any plant that the
spray drifts onto. If you have plants near the
myrtle spurge that you don't want killed, you can
dab Roundup on the weeds with a small paint brush.
Be sure to wear gloves and long sleeves when
handling this plant. You want to avoid getting
the sap on your skin. It is toxic and can burn
the skin.
Canada thistle is
difficult to get rid of because it has an extensive
root system. Roots can extend more then 15' wide
and deep. Therefore, digging them is not
effective. They will grow back from the roots left
underground. To add to the problem, they also grow
from seed. These traits explain why they popped up
again this year. Repeated applications of Roundup
sprayed or dabbed on should help. The best time to
treat them with an herbicide is when they are
actively growing in spring (now) and in
August/September.
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| Q:
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I have a silver maple in my front yard that profusely yields helicopter
seeds onto my lawn. They soon sprout and cause a dwarf forest. What can I do other than
manually picking the seeds off the lawn? Will weed killers solve the
problem? Will simply mowing them eventually kill them? Thanks!
R. S., Highlands Ranch, 4/29/03
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| A:
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In addition to manually picking
the seeds off the lawn there are other steps you can take to manage them.
Regular mowing will eventually kill many of the ones that sprout. If
you want to use a chemical, you can treat the lawn with a pre-emergent
herbicide for broadleaf weeds. This needs to be done before the
seeds begin to germinate. Post-emergent herbicides for broadleaf
weeds in lawns would be an option after they have germinated.
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| Q:
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How can I get rid of the campanula (I call it common
harebell) that grows
throughout my beds. It has been near impossible to dig it out
without destroying everything else. Is there anything that is
effective as a chemical? Other suggestions? Thank you. D.
S., Denver, 5/23/03
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| A:
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Unfortunately, there is no easy
way to get rid of unwanted plants (weeds) growing in flower beds.
Chemical sprays and granules that kill the weeds will also kill the
desired plants. The only thing that will help is tedious. You
can use a small paint brush to dab a bit of Roundup on the leaves of the
campanula plants. You don't need to put the Roundup on all of the
leaves, just a few from each plant. Do not get any of the Roundup on
desired plants, as it will kill them.
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| Q:
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I am having an awful time with
puncture vines. I have a fairly new home, and for 3 years I've been
fighting these things. The more I dig and spray, they multiply.
Thanks, hope you can help. T. P., Greeley, 7/26/02
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| A:
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Puncture vine is an annual weed that
reproduces by seed. It is essential to get rid of these plants in
early spring before they have time to mature and produce seed. You
can hoe or dig up the plants, cutting the plant off below the crown so it
can't re-grow. A layer of mulch can help prevent seeds that are
already in the ground from germinating. Chemical control varies
depending on where the weeds are growing. If puncture vine is
growing in the lawn, use a product containing dicamba or methanearsonic
acid. If growing around trees and shrubs, you can use a pre-emergent
herbicide that contains trifluralin or pendimethalin. Round-up or
other products containing glyphosate can be used so long as you don't get
it on desired plants, as it kills everything.
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| Q:
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Can you suggest any illustrated
references for weed identification for Front Range gardens?
Especially something online or that can be obtained from a library?
Thanks. A. K., Boulder, 7/24/02
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| A:
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There are two books that you might find
helpful. Both deal with weeds found in the western part of the
United States.
"Sunset Western Garden Problem
Solver" -- It has a chapter on weeds with photos that might be
useful.
"Weeds of the West" by Tom
Whitson -- This is a very extensive reference with photos.
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| Q:
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My yard has become overrun with bindweed. Is there anything I
can do? It seems to get worse everyday. I also have 2 dogs and
1 cat. P. C., Arvada, 6/23/02
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| A:
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If the bindweed is growing in your lawn
you can control it with herbicides made to kill broadleaf weeds in turf.
It's harder to control it in borders because herbicides that kill bindweed
will also kill shrubs and flowers. Some people resort to
dabbing Round-up directly on some of the leaves with a brush to avoid
damage to desirable plants. For more information please see the
Planttalk website at www.Planttalk.org. Click on "Weeds &
Cultural Problems." Then click on #2104 "Controlling
Bindweed." When using an herbicide please be sure to read the
label carefully and follow directions. Most products will suggest
what safeguards to take to protect children and pets.
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| Q:
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I have mushrooms coming up in my flower bed and I'd like to know
what to use to get rid of them. There is an old tree stump in the bed.
I've tried soap and water and coffee grounds. C. N., Arvada, 6/1/02
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| A:
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Mushrooms tend to appear in soil
containing decaying organic matter. The old tree stump is probably a
major factor. There are fungicides that you might try using, but
they often have limited success. Spading up the spaces between
plants to aerate the soil may help.
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| Q:
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How can I kill unwanted grass that grows in my borders
which are filled
with many perennials & has a covering of wood chips for mulch? I
used to dig most of it out, but find I cannot physically do this anymore.
Thanks. J. C., Littleton, 5/21/02
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| A:
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To kill the grass that is already
present in your beds you can use an herbicide made specifically for
killing grass but not broadleaf plants. One product that does this
is Ortho's Grass-B-Gon. To prevent weed seeds from sprouting I
recommend using Preen.
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| Q:
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What is the best way to get rid of
Russian Knapweed ? C. P., Montrose, 5/11/02
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| A:
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I would like to suggest that you contact
your county CSU Cooperative Extension office and request fact sheet #
3.111 on Russian Knapweed. I believe the information in this
publication may help you with control of this weed.
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| Q:
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I have a problem with Sandburs (Cenchrus
longispinas). What should I use to get rid of them? Would Amine 400
2,4.D Weed Killer work?
I live in Gonzales County, Texas. All sand soil. W. M., Nixon, TX;
5/10/02
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| A:
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Amine 400 2, 4 D Weed Killer is designed
for use on broadleaf plants. Sandburs belong to the grass family, and
there are products intended specifically for use on grasses that might be a
better choice. According to Sunset Western Garden Problem Solver, this
plant is an annual grass that reproduces by seed. The goals,
therefore, are to get rid of young plants before they produce seeds and to
prevent the seeds already in the soil from sprouting. A pre-emergence
herbicide containing pendimethalin, trifluralin or oryzalin will prevent
seeds from germinating in turf grasses and ornamentals listed on the
product's label. Products containing fluazifop-butyl or sethoxydim are
designed to kill grass and can be used when sandburs are growing around
ornamentals. Don't use these products in or near grass that you want
because they will kill it too. Glyphosate ("Roundup") or
glufosinate-ammonium will kill sandburs -- and also any other plants they
touch. Hopefully there is someplace near you that carries products
with these chemicals. Unfortunately, I don't have the common brand
names for any of them.
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| Q:
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Hello,
I hope that someone there can answer this question for me.
I have these 'prickles' that are extremely sharp and stick in your feet, in
my back yard. They seem to be here more in the winter, and my father
called them ' sheep heads ' or something similar to that. How do I get
rid of them and where do they come from? They hurt!
Thanks for your time. J., Parker, 11/15/01
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| A:
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Burs are the fruit or seedpods of
various weeds such as Common Cocklebur (Xanthium strumarium), Burclover (Medicago
polymorpha), Sandbur (Cenchrus longispinus), Goathead or Puncturevine (Tribulus
terrestris), etc. The key to getting rid of them is killing the weeds
before they produce the burs. You should hoe, cut, pull up or spray
the weeds with a weed killer in spring and summer.
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| Q:
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I saw you on a Regis Philbin show
and you were discussing how to keep weeds from growing around tree
beds. You mentioned something like putting newspaper and plastic
down. Am I confused or did I hear you right? I would like to
know the proper way to do this. By the way, I thought you were
great. C. M., Cedar Park, TX, 3/1/01
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| A:
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I'm not sure who you saw on the Regis Philbin show, but unfortunately it wasn't me! I suspect that the guest suggested using weed barrier fabric or a layer of newspaper several sheets thick to keep weeds from growing in tree beds. You can spread a layer of decorative rock, pole peelings, decorative bark or mulch over the weed barrier fabric or newspaper. Plastic is not a good choice in a tree bed. It would prevent water and air from getting to the roots of the tree.
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Q:
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I have a question about crabgrass.
I've heard people say that the best way to get rid of it is to just pull
it up. I have so much ( that has crept over from a negligent
neighbor's yard) that I don't have the time or inclination to do that.
Is there a spray or something I can use? N. B., Denver, 7/13/01
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A:
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There are several ways to deal with
crabgrass. Crabgrass grows from seeds that were deposited the
previous fall. In springtime you can use a "pre-emergent"
herbicide to prevent seeds from germinating -- something to consider for
next year. At this time of year you will need to spray a
"post-emergent" herbicide that is labeled as a crabgrass killer.
Any place that carries garden products will probably have some in
stock as this is a common lawn problem. Some products may
temporarily discolor the lawn. Depending on the outcome, you may
need to repeat the treatment. Be sure to water the lawn thoroughly
the day before treatment. Cloudy, cool weather may decrease the
effectiveness of sprays so check the weather forecast before spraying.
Be sure to read and follow all label directions.
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Q:
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After heavy rains, I see a lot of
toadstools and/or mushrooms growing in my lawn. How do I get rid of
them without hurting my lawn or pets? K.C., Aurora, 6/4/01
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A:
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Two safe remedies for mushrooms in the
lawn are core aeration of the lawn and mowing or removing them with a
rake.
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