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Questions & Answers
Miscellaneous Topics

This page contains questions (edited) we have received from our viewers along with our responses.  
We thought you might find this information helpful.      

Q:    I was told that I should be watering the trees/grass on warmer days in the Winter. Is that true?? How much?  B. D., Highlands Ranch; 2/17/09
A:
   Yes, you should be watering during winter on warm days if there has been little snow.  Often, the snow contains little moisture and there isn't enough of it to provide sufficient moisture for trees, shrubs and lawns.  This results in damage to plants that will become apparent in late spring.  Water early in the day when the ground isn't frozen.  Watering once or twice a month is recommended. 
Additional tips on winter watering:
Trees: 10 gallons of water per each diameter inch of the tree's trunk monthly
Small shrubs: 5 gallons of water monthly
Large shrubs (over 6' tall): 18 gallons of water monthly
Water when there is no snow on the ground and the temperature is above 40 degrees F.  Water early in the day so plants can dry off before night. 
 
Q:    I am looking for a website or booklet that is a brief, straight-to-the-point guide for "what to do when" in my county/zip code (Fremont, Canon City, CO 81212) for lawns, vegetables & fruits, flowers, etc. Basically an all around "calendar" of when to apply pre-emergents, when to plant what, when and what fertilizer, when to ... specifically for this area.  Can you point me in the right direction?  S. B., Canon City, 2/16/09
A:
   I am not familiar with a book or website that treats gardening topics just for the Canon City area.  However, there are books that provide gardening information that applies to that area.  My recommendation would be Month-By-Month Gardening in the Rocky Mountains by John Cretti.  This book has a chapter on each of the following: lawns, trees, shrubs, perennials, annuals, roses, bulbs, vegetables and other topics.  For each topic the author then tells you month-by month what you should be doing.  The format makes the information clear and concise.
 
Q:    My demented neighbour came into my garden whilst we were at work and sprayed Roundup on my beloved rose tree. She also sprayed it on my fern and on another tree. They are really brown and wilted. The top of the rose is dead. The leaves turned brown/black, crimpled and disintegrated. Is there any way I can revive them?  The rose is 25 years old. Heartbroken.  C. S., Melbourne, Vic; 1/17/09
A:
   Roundup is one of the most effective herbicides on the market.  The product kills not only the part of the plant that it is sprayed on, but it will travel to the other parts of the plant including the roots and kill them.  I do not know of any way to revive the plants.  You can try spraying them with water and soaking the soil, but I doubt that will help.  What a pity!  I'm terribly sorry.
 
Q:    I am amazed to read that oregano is not hardy in Colorado. I planted some here in Denver 7 years ago and it is trying to take over my garden. I don't take any special care or it. I pretty much ignore it except to harvest and cut it back when it gets too invasive. Are you perhaps referring to Marjoram? I have heard it called "oregano" with various modifiers.  C. S., Denver, 1/3/09
A:    The sub-species and cultivars of oregano, including Marjoram, vary in hardiness.  Some are hardy in zone 6.  Much of Colorado is in zone 4 or 5.  Your garden's micro-climate may be more typical of zone 6 if you are able to grow oregano so easily.
 
Q:    I live up in the high country and my ground and beds are completely covered in snow. When should I start to prepare the ground? This is my first time to garden here because I just moved from Arkansas.  M., Oak Creek, 2/29/08
A:
   Welcome to Colorado!  You can start to prepare the ground as soon as the ground isn't frozen and the soil isn't wet.  There is a website on gardening in the high country that I think you will find helpful.  Please see www.coopext.colostate.edu/gilpin/MG.shtml.
 
Q:    I want to build a berm in my front yard, from the front of the house and around a tree. I'm not sure how to get started. Can you offer some help; a book or publication?  C. B., Littleton, 2/9/08
A:
I found a detailed description on how to build a berm at www.sustland.umn.edu/implement/soil_berms.html.  Additional tips can be found at www.the-landscape-design-site.com/berms.html.
 
Q:    I live in Denver and from time to time buy jasmine plants which smell wonderful for a month or so and then stop blooming.  I take them inside over the winter and then bring them back outside for the summer, but they still don't bloom again.  Do you have and hints that would help to get them flower once more?  P. M., Denver, 6/21/07
A:
   Jasmine plants should have a minimum of four hours of direct sunlight daily.  A south or west facing location is ideal.  They like moist soil.  Fertilize the plant regularly with a fertilizer labeled for use on flowering plants.  Too much nitrogen fertilizer results in lots of leaves and few flowers.
 
Q:    I have an azalea plant that has been in my house since December 2006.  Now, June 2007, it is getting ready to bloom again.  Can I put it outside, and in the ground or just a pot.  Can it withstand a Colorado winter in Gypsum, Colorado outside?  G. B., Gypsum, 6/21/07
A:    The azalea plant should stay in a pot.  It would not survive Colorado's winter weather outdoors.  Also, it would do poorly in Colorado's alkaline soil.  Because the plant is doing so well inside I suggest that you continue to treat it as a houseplant.  Azaleas are finicky plants. You are doing things right or it wouldn't re-bloom.  Congratulations!
 
Q:    Colorado had multiple storms here, and now that the snow is gone I have a lot off damage.  All of my bushes and shrubs have been crushed, but I'm most worried about my rose bush.  The prior owners neglected the bush, so it was not in prime condition prior to this.  The main three branches are intact, but the crown is ravaged.  How long do I wait to prune, and how far back do I go? Thank you.  A. R., Thornton, 3/15/07
A:
    You should prune any broken branches on your shrubs and roses now.  Wounds encourage problems with pests and diseases.  You can also tidy up damaged deciduous shrubs now by pruning them as needed.  Wait until the third week of April to prune the rose bush.  Prune the canes back to healthy wood (the inside of the canes will be green surrounded by white).  Usually that means pruning the canes to about 6 - 12" high.  Roses are pruned late because pruning encourages new growth that could be damaged by a late frost. Fertilize the rose in late April or early May.
 
Q:    I've seen several websites that suggest putting epsom salts around rose bushes in the spring. What is the purpose of this?  M. S., Grand Junction, 3/10/07
A:
    Epsom salts (Magnesium sulfate) is used as a fertilizer to produce vigorous plants.  It may promote the growth of new canes.  There is an interesting article on this topic at www.doityourself.com/stry/fertilizeepsomsalts.
 
Q:    I live in Palm Springs, California, and we have recently had a freeze here.  All of the bougainvillea have frozen as well as the lantana and other outdoor plants.  My question is what do I do now?  Do I cut off all the dead branches, or do I just leave things to nature and hope that they will come back?  J. M., Palm Springs, CA; 1/29/07
A:    Often the best approach to dealing with plants that have been damaged by a freeze is "wait and see."  Some plants may have been killed by cold weather.  These plants will not produce new leaves in spring and will need to be replaced.  Other plants are likely to have damaged parts as well as healthy sections.  In spring look for damaged sections that don't produce leaves and prune them off.  Pruning now could result in cutting off healthy tissue that would have bounced back.
 
Q:    Can you recommend a good source for learning how to create my own compost?  I live in a condominium, and my garden is in pots on my patio and in front of my house outdoors.  J. B., Laguna Niguel, CA; 12/20/06
A:    Because of limited space you may want to do worm composting (vermicomposting).  If you do a search on this topic on the Web you will find several informative articles.  I suggest you start with www.ciwmb.ca.gov/Organics/Worms.
 
Q:    How or where can I find a list of Colorado Farmers' Markets?  I thought it would be on this web site.  There doesn't appear to be any Farmers' Markets in the northwest Denver area.  J. S., Edgewater, 7/13/06
A:    For a list of Colorado Farmers' Markets please see www.ag.state.co.us/mkt/farmfresh/farmersmarkets.html.
 
Q:    I recently bought a house in Fort Collins, CO. I am originally from San Diego, CA. While I grew up helping in the yard as a kid, CO is nothing like CA.  I miss the rich green and the colorful flowers. How can I do that here without dumping a truckload of water into my yard once a day to compete with the dryness?  Any suggestions you have would be greatly appreciated!  Thank you!  J., Fort Collins, 6/9/06
A:
   You are wise to recognize that Colorado gardening is very different from gardening in southern California.  You will find there are advantages and disadvantages. 
    You'll want to plan for four seasons of interest in the garden.  Plant bulbs this fall that will bloom in late winter and early spring (crocus, hyacinth, daffodils, tulips, etc.).  Select plants for beds and borders to provide a succession of bloom in spring, summer and fall:
Spring choices: Columbine, Basket-of-Gold, Iris
Summer choices: Daylily, Purple Coneflower
Fall: Asters, Autumn Joy Sedum.
    Plant shrubs such as Burning Bush (Euonymus alatus), Golden Currant (Ribes aureum) and American Cranberry (Viburnum trilobum) to provide brilliant fall color.  For winter interest incorporate conifers and ornamental grasses.
    Colorful frost-tender plants can be grown in containers outdoors in summer and brought inside as houseplants when cold weather arrives.
    Because of on-going drought conditions in Colorado, much information on water-wise (also known as Xeriscape) gardening is available.  Many colorful flowers and shrubs require little water once established.  Please see the page on Drought Info on the Colorado Gardening website for a list of helpful resources on gardening with limited water.
 
Q:    I was wondering where I can find out my exact zone.  All the maps that I've been able to find are uneasy to read.  I live in Breckenridge, CO 80424 at 9600'.  Is there any site that has this info?  I think I'm a zone 4, but I would like to know if it's a 4a/4b/3b/3a.  Also where do I find plants good for this zone?  Thanks again. C. L., Breckenridge, 12/25/05
A:
    Finding a USDA Hardiness Zone map for Colorado that you can read is almost impossible.  I looked up your area on a map in Colorado Gardener's Guide and it appears that you may be in zone 4b.  Microclimates have a big impact on gardens, especially in the mountains. 
    The Gilpin County Master Gardeners have a website on mountain gardening that you may find helpful.  One of the pages is "Plant Recommendations."  Please see www.coopext.colostate.edu/gilpinmg.  Also, CSU Cooperative Extension has a fact sheet on flowers for mountain communities.  Please see www.ext.colostate.edu/pubs/garden/07406.html. They recently discontinued the ones on shrubs and trees.  Hopefully they will publish new ones in the near future.
 
Q:    I was told that it was illegal to collect rainwater in Ft. Collins.  Do you know if this is true?  Or what resources can I contact regarding this matter?  Thanks, D. B., Golden, 2/18/05
A:    It is my understanding that it is illegal to collect rainwater, for example in rain barrels, in Colorado.  For more information on this please see the Denver Water website at http://www.denverwater.org.  Click on "Conservation."  Click on "Conservation" when it appears again as a subheading.  Under the heading "Water Use Information" click on "Water to California, Gray Water, Rain Barrels (FAQs)." 
 
Q:    I'm looking for someone to provide gardening services for me this spring/summer/fall.  I would need about 3-4 hrs 2X/month.  I'm looking for an individual or a small business to provide these services and I'd like to have someone who knows plants.  Can you recommend anyone who meets these qualifications?  Thank you for any assistance you can provide.  L. B., Denver, 2/15/05
A:     I'm not personally familiar with anyone who provides gardening services in Denver.  I suggest that you visit the Associated Landscape Contractors of Colorado website at http://www.alcc.com.  Click on "Find a Landscape Professional" and follow the prompts to get information about companies that provide gardening services in your area.
 
Q:    I am wondering if you can give me any tips on fireproofing my garden.  Thanks,  L., Medford, OR; 2/7/05
A:    There is an excellent website that has a wealth of information on how to fireproof your property.  Please see www.firewise.org/fw_index.htm.  You'll find plant lists, tips on landscape design and maintenance, and other topics.  Colorado residents may want to visit the FireWise Colorado website at www.firewise.org/co
 
Q:    My question is what should floral designers use to treat flower containers that have bacteria?   I need to kill the bacteria.  J., Mt. Pleasant Mills, PA; 1/10/05
A:    You can use a solution of chlorine bleach to kill bacteria in container.  One part bleach to ten parts water should be sufficient.
Q:    I purchased a huge and heavy pottery container that is glazed on the outside.  How do I winterize it?  It is too heavy to carry inside.  C. M., Denver, 10/30/04
A:     Hopefully the heavy glazed pot is frost-proof.  Some are, some aren't.  Wet soil in the pot will expand when it freezes and cause cracking.  Therefore, it is important to let the soil dry out and then cover the pot with plastic to keep snow and water out.  You can also remove the soil if you wish.
Q:    Can nightcrawlers from a bait shop be "planted" in a new lawn that seems devoid of worms?  D. W., Fountain, 11/29/04
A:     I did some research on nightcrawlers and lawns.  While nightcrawlers are a type of earthworm and could be planted in a lawn, you may want to weigh the advantages and disadvantages.  Nightcrawlers are of some benefit to the soil, but they can also create problems by pushing up mounds of soil and castings to the surface of the lawn where they harden into bumps.  The lawn then requires measures to break down the bumps.  Also, if the number of nightcrawlers gets too large there are no chemicals registered to control them.  Proceed with caution.
Q:    Are the toadstools and mushrooms that are growing in my garden poisonous?  I had to induce vomiting in my dog the other day and wonder whether or not I will be able to let her run in the yard anymore.  J. S., Evans, 10/16/04
A:     Only an expert on mushrooms can reliably distinguish between edible and poisonous mushrooms.  The ones growing in your yard may be either type.  Therefore, it would be best to clear away all mushrooms before allowing your dog in the yard.
Q:    I live in Colorado Springs, near lots of wildlife. I'd like to compost but keep it away from predators, i.e. bears, raccoons. Any ideas regarding a kind of composter that will work in a garage, enclosed space?  C. M., Colorado Springs, 10/1/04
A:     I read that a worm composter is a good choice for use indoors in a garage.  The worms speed up the composting process.
Q:    We have been traveling to the Colorado area for years to admire the colors of the Aspens in the fall. Could you tell us what is the progression of the color change, i.e., green to yellow to orange to red? What conditions attribute to some trees being green in one grouping and yellow or red in a grouping right next to them?  C. R., Houston, TX; 9/15/04
A:    Aspen trees turn from green to yellow primarily, with some leaves having a bit of gold or orange.  Red in the leaves is not as common.  Cold temperatures and less sunlight (due to shorter days in fall) cause the trees to produce little or no chlorophyll.  Chlorophyll gives the leaves their green color.  The other pigments that were present in the leaves are then visible.  The amount of moisture also affects the color changes.  Large numbers of aspen trees grow from a single root system.  Each group has its own traits and slightly different growing conditions.
Q:    I have found several small areas on top of cedar wood mulch, which is on top of landscape fabric, where yellow foamy piles appear. These aren't in areas of especially high water - no runoff, no direct irrigation. We have drip lines on individual plants. The plants are thriving. I just keep picking it up including the underlying mulch and tossing it out. What is it? We live near Kipling and Morrison in Lakewood and have sandy clay soil or just clay.  J. B., Lakewood, 5/31/04
A:     The yellow foamy piles growing on the cedar wood mulch is slime mold.  (Due to its appearance, some people call it dog vomit slime mold.)   Slime molds live on decaying wood or other moist organic matter.  To control it, allow the mulch to dry out.  Raking the mulch will promote drying.  Scooping it up and tossing it in the trash will also keep it under control.  Usually it isn't harmful to plants, other than to smother small mat-like plants occasionally.
Q: When is last frost in Longmont, CO 80501?  Am a transplant from "back East" and am anxious to start a garden.  W. M., Longmont, 4/18/04
A:
  The last frost date for Longmont is roughly around Mother's Day -- mid May.  Of course with Colorado's unpredictable weather, it can come earlier or later. 
   You actually can begin working in your garden any time now.  There are several plants that like cool temperatures that can be planted now.  More tender ones should be planted later.  Also, now is a good time to prepare the soil by adding compost.  Garden centers carry products to extend the gardening season, such as row covers and Walls O' Water (very popular for growing tomatoes).  You might want to look into using them.
Q:    Your harvest 2003 issue had an article about Shambala Botanic Garden north of Fort Collins.  My garden club is planning a trip to the garden in June.  Do you have an address for them?  I need more information before we go and I haven't been able to locate a web site for them.  Are there other gardens to visit while we are on our outing?  Thanks,  L. C., Northglenn, 2/25/04
A:
   Our website, www.coloradogardening.com is not affiliated with the Colorado Gardener newspaper.  However, I am familiar with the article in the 2003 Harvest issue to which you referred.  The name of the new botanic garden was not spelled correctly.  The correct spelling is Shambhala.  Their website address is www.shambhalagardens.org.  You will find the address, a map and directions for getting there on the website.  Perhaps you can arrange for the land steward Jim Tolstrup or another employee to speak to the group.
   Other gardens in that area you might visit are Colorado State University's W. D. Holley Plant Environmental Research Center (PERC) Garden and their new Annual Flower Trial Garden at Remington Park in Fort Collins.  Each year many perennial and annual flowers and ornamental grasses are grown at these sites and their performance evaluated.  Please see their website at http://lamar.colostate.edu/~percgard/index.html.
Q:   Would you be able to provide information concerning various options to get xeriscaping done (on a tight budget) for homeowners? Thank you.  L. K., Aurora, 1/17/04
A:
    Before you start to convert your landscape to a xeriscape you would be wise to do some homework to become well-informed about xeriscape principles and design.  A number of helpful sources are available, such as websites (see the page on Drought on the Colorado Gardening website), books, and classes offered by water departments, garden centers and others.
     If you are considering replacing an existing landscape with one that will better conserve water, keep in mind that you may either do it all at once or in stages.  Landscaping companies, home improvement centers, and garden centers can provide assistance with this task. 
     Because the biggest water guzzler is the lawn, you may want to begin by seeing if there are sections of grass that could be removed and replaced with beds or borders containing shrubs, perennials or groundcovers that require little water. 
Q:    I am interested in starting the hobby of miniature gardening. Are there any clubs or organizations in Colorado that focus on miniature gardening, fairy gardens, or terrarium gardens? And can you recommend any books on these subjects?  K. N., Loveland, 12/9/03  
A:
   I am not aware of any clubs or organizations in Colorado that focus on miniature gardening. One club that you might like to consider is the North American Rock Garden Society, as many rock garden plants are quite small.    Other sources of information are websites, magazines and books that deal with garden railroads.  The plants used for garden railroads tend to be miniatures.  Please see www.trains.com.  You will find "Building your railway" in the menu, followed by "Plants & landscaping."  When you click on it you will get a page with a list of topics to select from.  When you click on a topic, you will get a list of articles you can read.
    I found some books on Amazon.com that deal with miniature gardening that may be helpful.  One nice feature of their website is that you usually can see pages from the book including the table of contents. 
    "Making Miniature Gardens" by Freida Gray (1999) $13.97
    "Tabletop Gardens: Create 40 Intimate Gardens for the Home, No Matter What the Season" by Rosemary McCreary (2003) $19.25
    "Beautiful Tabletop Gardens" by Janice Eaton Kilby (2003) $17.47
    "Gardening in Miniature: Small Plants for Gardens, Window Boxes and Containers" by Martin Baxendale" (1992) about $10.95 used
(I have a link on my website to Amazon.com and receive a small commission if you purchase books when using the link.)
    If I come across additional information on this topic I'll pass it along to you.
Q:    Hello:  Recently I have read that the Front Range area of Colorado has had a hardiness zone change.  I am in zip code 80121, and it is now changed to 6/7 - from a zone 5.  A friend who lives in Denver is now 7.  Will your website reflect these changes?  Thanks.  G. D., Greenwood Village, 11/2/03
A:    It is my understanding that the new 2003 Hardiness Zones draft map is currently under review by the USDA.  Once it is officially approved and published I will update the Colorado Gardening website to reflect any needed changes. 
Q:    I have read that the African Violet is a poisonous plant to pets.  However, in almost every source I have found, this statement is rebuffed.  Have you heard of this at all?  If it is poisonous, what part of the plant is poisonous, and what does it do?  K., Ithaca, NY; 10/26/03
A:    The American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals website (www.aspca.org) includes an Animal Poison Control Center.  African violet is on their list of non-toxic plants.
Q:    I live in Parker and 6/10 we just had a massive hail storm that demolished my perennials. There are a few stems with leaves remaining.  Do I cut them all back to the base or should I leave them alone?  I had just purchased several rose bushes that I did not put in the ground and all I have left of these is the buds and stems.  Should I cut these back?  This is so depressing.  Please help.  Thank you.   K. P., Parker, 6/11/03
A:     I have an article on my website that I believe you would find helpful in dealing with hail damage.  Look at the menu and you will see the topic "Garden Articles."  Click on it and a list of titles of articles will appear.  Click on the title  "Gardening in Hail Country."  As noted in the article, many perennials and annuals will bounce back if the hail damage occurs in spring.  Trim them back very lightly, leaving as many leaves as possible on the plants.  Do the same with the rose bushes.  Apply a small amount of fertilizer to stimulate new growth and provide extra water for a few days.  Hopefully, they will make a full recovery.  What a frustrating experience!
Q:    I have a couple of roses from my Dad's grave site, and I would like to know how I can dry them and put them in a book.  Hope you can help me.  D., Newport News, VA; 6/14/03
A:    For information on how to dry roses, please visit the Preserved Gardens website at www.preservedgardens.com.  You will find step-by-step directions there as well as lots of related information on pressing and drying flowers.  Hopefully you will have success preserving the roses from your Dad's grave site.
Q:    I was wondering if you could help me?  I am living in an apartment with a lot of southern exposure, and I want to buy some trees 6" - 8" in height (real/living).  I am not sure what trees do well indoors.  I have looked all over the web and am unable to find what I am looking for.  Please let me know if there are any trees that you can recommend.  Thank you.  S. P., NYC, N. Y.; 2/16/03
A:    Do you want trees that are six to eight inches (6" - 8") in height, or ones that are six to eight feet (6' - 8') in height?  To my knowledge, only bonsai trees would be six to eight inches in height.  Usually, they are evergreens such as pine or juniper.  If you are interested in trees that are six to eight feet tall, these are some large shrubs and small trees that can be grown as houseplants:
       Norfolk Island Pine (Araucaria heterophylla)
       Elephant-foot Tree (Beaucarnea recurvata)
       Schefflera (Brassaia actinophylla)
       European Fan Palm (Chamaerops humilis)
       Weeping Fig (Ficus benjamina)
       Indian Laurel (Ficus retusa nitida)
       Silk Oak (Grevillea robusta)
       Sentry Palm (Howeia belmoreana)
       Wax-leaved Privet (Ligustrum japonicum texanum)
       Olive (Olea europaea)
       Chinese Podocarpus (Podocarpus macrophyllus maki)
Q:    A friend of mine recently saw an article by Barbara Hyde as to how to protect your evergreens and shrubs from drought.  It involved spraying something on them; however, she could not remember what it was.  Can you please help?  Thanks.  D. B., Loveland, 2/2/03
A:    Two products that can be used to protect evergreens during winter are Cloud-Cover and Wilt-Pruf.  The coating helps trees and shrubs retain moisture.
Q:   I would like to start a neighborhood garden club. How do I start?  R. S., Denver, 6/14/02
A:   I have no experience with starting a garden club, so can offer no advice on this topic.  I suggest that you contact the Colorado Federation of Garden Clubs.  I'm sure they would have a member who would be able to help you.  Their address is 1556 Emerson St., Denver, CO; 80216-1450.  Their phone number is 303-832-6390.  You might want to take a look at their website: www.gardenclubcolorado.com.
Q:   I would like to plant some flowers in my front yard, but my husband is terribly allergic to bees and wasps.  Are there any flowers that are "less likely" to attract these animals?  Please Help Me!  Thank you.  E. M., Louisville, 5/7/02
A:   Bees are attracted to plants with lots of pollen.  Therefore, you should select low-pollen plants.  According to a book on allergies I consulted some flowers with low counts of pollen include these:

Annuals: Impatiens, Lobelia, Moss Rose (Portulaca grandiflora), Pansy/Viola, Petunia, Snapdragons, Vinca (Catharanthus roseus)

Perennials: Ajuga, Anchusa, Aubrieta, Balloon Flower (Platycodon grandiflorus), Beard Tongue (Penstemon), Bellflower/Canterbury Bells (Campanula), Candytuft (Iberis), Columbine (Aquilegia), Coral Bell (Heuchera), Forget-Me-Not (Myosotis), Gaura, Geum, Hosta, Peony, Rockcress (Arabis), Sea Pink (Armeria), Toadflax (Linaria), Twinspur (Diascia), Veronica
  
  According to Whitney Cranshaw, an expert on garden pests, yellow jackets are primarily responsible for stings, accounting for 95% or more of "bee stings."  To deter yellow jackets, remove water sources from the yard in dry weather.  They feed on honey-dew producing insects such as aphids, so be sure to control these in the garden.
Q:   Is there a web site or software I can use to create a plan for planting?  I want to be able to create an electronic picture of what it would look like after the plants are 2 years old.  I want to use this to plan where and what to plant.
Any information you have will be appreciated.  S., Golden, 4/16/02
A:   Software is available for creating a planting plan and seeing what the area would look like at maturity.  I have not used any of these, and therefore can make no recommendations.  Amazon.com has some available.  Enter "Software" as the category and then search for "Landscape Design."  I have a link on my site for Amazon.com and would greatly appreciate the small commission if you decide to make a purchase.
Q:    I am planning to take the grass out of the outer edges of my front lawn and to replace it with various plantings.  I had planned on putting landscaping fabric over the area with shredded bark.  But I was just told that in north facing areas where it has snow/ice much of the winter that this is not a good idea because the bark develops an odor.  Is this true?  If so, what would be better to use?  Please don't tell me rock as I already have more than I care for of that.  J. B., Loveland, 4/16/02
A:    I am not aware of problems with odor when using shredded bark over landscape fabric.  Be sure to use landscape fabric, not plastic sheeting, beneath the bark.  Unlike plastic, landscape fabric permits water to drain through to the soil.  Water would collect in plastic causing the bark to rot and perhaps create an odor. 
   Another option would be to plant a low-growing ground cover such as Thyme or Speedwell (Veronica) to fill in the open areas between plants.  These groundcovers flower and would add some color to the borders.
Q:   How do I eliminate mold in my soil?  M. T., Lakewood, 4/1/02
A:    These are some steps you can take to eliminate mold in the soil and to prevent it from re-occurring:
       Avoid using fresh, finely ground wood products as a mulch or soil amendment.  These products, especially when dry, promote the growth of mold.  Instead, use composted mulch and soil amendments.
       Limit the depth of mulch to about two inches.  Soak the mulch with water immediately after applying it.
       Promote the growth of beneficial bacteria in the soil by wetting it thoroughly.  The presence of "good" bacteria will limit the amount of mold-producing organisms.
Q:    Being new to Colorado this information is very helpful.  I did not see (may have missed) any information on sources of gardening materials and supplies.  J. M., Colorado Springs, 3/27/02
A:    Thank you for visiting my Colorado Gardening website.  I don't have a page on the website regarding local sources of gardening materials and supplies.  However, you can find a list of garden centers in your area on the Garden Centers of Colorado website: www.gardencentersofcolorado.org.  Click on "Member Locations," then on "Membership List Sorted by Geographic Region."  If you are interested in purchasing items online, please see our Links page.  We have included some Internet sites that offer gardening supplies.
Q:    Hi. We are building a retirement home 14.7 miles back from Como, Co. on the Elkhorn Ranch.  It's about 10,200 feet.  The top of a bald mountain. We are bound by covenants not to water gardens & grass.  We are using an underground system of gray water.  I would like to do a soil test, but don't know how or where.  I would like to grow a windbreak, but don't have a clue.  What grows that high?  Bristle cone Pine takes forever.  We do have a small grove of very stunted aspens.  The wind is hard & harsh.  We have the ground around the house all torn up.  I'm thinking bad mud problems if I don't plant something, but what?  Would like it to look nice.  Love flowers.  Like the idea of a sunken rocked area.  Plan a cold frame.  Will learn how to container garden salad & fruit & veggies.  Do you know what I could plant & where to get it?  L. G., Lakewood, 3/3/02
A:    I am going to mail a form to you concerning taking a soil sample.  It gives directions on how to take a sample, the cost, and where to send the sample.  Several private companies as well as Colorado State University do soil tests.
   There are a few trees and shrubs you can plant for a windbreak.  Due to the strong winds, restrictions on water usage and very high altitude, you are facing a very challenging situation.  I suggest that you contact the Natural Resources Conservation Service (also known as the Soil Conservation Service), which is a division of the U. S. Dept. of Agriculture, for assistance with planning a windbreak and also with designing a system to collect rain water and snow melt to water your plants. They can also provide tree and shrub recommendations for your specific area, based on soil surveys and other information they have on hand.  If you have 2.5 acres or more, you may qualify for their low-cost tree seedlings program.  To contact the office for Park County call 719-686-9405.
   There actually are several flowers and a few shrubs and trees that grow at 10,000 feet or higher elevation.  Colorado State University Cooperative Extension has three helpful fact sheets:
     # 7.406  Garden Flowers for Mountain Communities
     # 7.407  Shrubs for Mountain Communities
     # 7.408  Trees for Mountain Communities. 
The recommended plants and trees are commonly found at garden centers in the metro Denver area and at garden centers in the mountains.  Because of the short growing season where you are moving, it may be difficult to get them established.  Starting flowers and vegetables inside in containers and then moving them outside while the weather is nice is recommended.  A cold frame is a good idea, as well as the use of rocks, which collect and retain heat, to create areas with warmer microclimates in the garden.  I wish you luck.  You have some major gardening challenges ahead.  
Q:    I'm in the process of expanding my garden to include both vegetable and various flowers boxes and have just completed an in the ground greenhouse.
   I have 5 boxes vegetable boxes that range in size from 4'x24', 3'x16', and 3'x16'. These boxes are made out of 2x12x12 cca lumber. The flower boxes are rectangular in shape and range from 8'x 8'x12' to 8'x12'x14'. These are made out of 4x4 cca lumber.
   I do not plan on filling them with dirt, but with good potting soil, compost, & peat. Do you have any suggestions of the type/brand I should use and should the boxes be lined. Both the vegetable & flower boxes will be watered with a drip system.
   Thanks.  R. L., Berthoud, 3/14/02
A:    There are no particular brands of potting soil, compost or peat that I would recommend.  However, I would suggest that if you use peat, be sure to use a coarse sphagnum peat rather than native mountain sedge peat that has a very fine texture and tends to be alkaline.  Also, due to the possible presence of harmful bacteria, do not use manure in the vegetable beds.
   Because you are using CCA (Chromated Copper Arsenic) lumber you may want to line the boxes with plastic, being sure to provide for drainage.  Arsenic from the treated lumber can leach into the soil and be absorbed by the plants.  It can also be absorbed through the skin and inhaled.  Therefore, you should also consider sealing the wood with one of the sealants made for use on CCA lumber. 
Q:    I'm interested in starting a small nursery and would like to know where I can buy house plants, shrubs, and vegetables for wholesale.  Thanks.  R. L., Berthoud, 3/14/02
A:    A list of wholesale growers is available on the website www.colorado-nursery-assn.org.  Click on "CNA Members in Colorado" and "CNA Members in Other States."  After each entry you will find a note indicating if the business is wholesale or retail.
Q:   How can I find more information about weeds, any poisonous weeds, what they are good for, what they are bad for, what they will heal up and all of that information?  May I get a better thing to go to besides the different books that tell what is around here in this area and where they grow?  T. L., Las Animas, 2/5/02
A:    I believe books will be your best source of information on plant identification and the use of wild plants.  A search on the Internet for "poisonous plants" and for "herbs" will provide many helpful sites. 
   For plant identification information on edible wild plants, as well as toxic plants to avoid, I'd highly recommend the book Best-Tasting Wild Plants of Colorado and the Rockies by Cattail Bob Seebek.  This book has 300 close-up, color photos and detailed descriptions of numerous plants growing here in Colorado.  It also tells you where and when you are likely to find these plants.  Suggested uses for these plants, including recipes, are also provided.  The book is available on my website www.coloradogardening.com at a discounted price.  Click on Garden Book Store and scroll through the first section of books.
Q:    I love flowers, and yet I live in a house without a yard.  I want to know if lilacs or gerbera daisies will grow inside in a big pot?  I would appreciate any help you could give to me.  If neither of these can, can I grow any flowers inside?  K. O., Grays Knob, KY; 2/11/02 
A:   I haven't found any sources that indicate lilacs or gerbera daisies can be grown successfully indoors.  Insufficient sunlight and a consistently warm temperature would cause problems for many plants.  Surprisingly, there are a number of flowering plants that do perform well indoors if given the right growing conditions (light, water, temperature, humidity, soil, etc.).  Whatever plants you select, be sure to find out their specific growing requirements.  The following list includes plants that are commonly grown only as houseplants as well as plants commonly grown outdoors that adapt well to indoor use.

   African Violet (Saintpaulia ionantha)
   Agapanthus 'Peter Pan'
   Azalea (Rhododendron)
   Begonia
   Bougainvillea
   Christmas Cactus ( Schlumbergera)
   Cineraria (Senecio cruentus)
   Cyclamen (Cyclamen persicum)
   Easter Cactus (Rhipsalidopsis gaertneri)
   Fuchsia
   Hibiscus (Hibiscus rosasinensis)
   Hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla)
   Impatiens (Impatiens walleriana)
   Kalanchoe (Kalanchoe blossfeldiana)
   Lantana
   Martha Washington / Ivy-leaf Geranium (Pelargonium)
   Pentas / Star Cluster (Pentas lanceolata)
   Primrose (Primula)
   Sweet Alyssum (Lobularia maritima)

Several bulbs do well when grown indoors:
   Crocus
   Daffodil (Narcissus): 'Tete-a-Tete', 'February Gold', 'Mount Hood'
   Grape Hyacinth (Muscari)
   Hyacinth 'Delft Blue'
   Iris (Iris reticulata)
   Paper White (Narcissus tazetta): 'Orientalis', 'Paper White', Grand Soleil d'Or'
   Tulip: 'Apricot Beauty', 'Christmas Marvel', 'Monte Carlo', 'Pinocchio'

Don't let the lack of a yard prevent you from having flowers to enjoy.  Where there's a will, there's a way!  Good luck.
Q:    Last year at this time you gave listeners a Christmas Tree Potion to help preserve fresh trees.  I know it had light corn syrup in it but have forgotten the other ingredients.  Please let me know how I can get this recipe.  Thanks and Happy Holidays to you. 
P.S.  I love your show.  L. J., Denver, 12/7/01
A:    Your inquiry about a Christmas Tree Potion to help preserve trees has reached me by mistake.  I suspect you were trying to reach John and Jeri Cretti.  In their Winter 2000/2001 edition of Garden & Home Talk they provided the following recipe.

Ingredients:
       1 Gallon of hot water
       1 Cup light corn syrup (such as Karo)
       1 to 2 TB. liquid chlorinated bleach (Clorox)
Mix these ingredients together, being careful not to spill the bleach on your clothing.  Allow the mixture to cool to tepid and pour into the tree stand bowl.  Check the tree stand daily and add more preservative so that it always covers the butt end.  It may be necessary to stir the solution each time before it is added to the stand bowl.
   They caution that the preservative should be stored in a container that is labeled as tree preservative.  It should be stored out of the reach of small children and pets.  Also, they advise that you saw a few inches off the butt end of the tree just prior to putting it in the tree stand to ensure that the tree will absorb the preservative.
Q:    Do you know where I could obtain "polymers/crystals" that can be mixed with soil to hold water and reduce drainage and thus reduce watering requirements?  If so, do you have any opinions as to their effectiveness?  Our goal in gardening in northern NM is to use only rainwater catchment for our gardening. Thanks in advance.   J.  F., Santa Fe, NM; 11/14/01
A:    I looked up information on polymers on the USDA Cooperative Extension website and found the following: "Research to date with hydrogels is limited and has provided conflicting results.  However, preliminary studies with hydrogels at the University of Georgia shows them to enhance the growth of summer annuals in nonirrigated soils."    I know that Colorado State University Cooperative Extension does not support their use.  They are often recommended for use in containers by horticulturists and leading figures in the gardening community.  If you are willing to try polymers, you might look at the Watersorb website for information.  They are located in the Southwest, as you are, and might be of assistance.   I personally am not familiar with the organization but ran across them while searching the Internet.
Q:   I'm new to Colorado (Boulder) and to gardening.  Two questions:  1) I've read that I should mulch new plantings after the first hard freeze.  Exactly what does that mean in this very changeable climate?  (2) I hope to make new flower beds for spring planting but am confused on one point:  should I improve the soil now, or would any benefit thus gained simply break down by spring?  Is there anything I should be doing now?  The only things planted in this area previously were lilac trees (and rocks, lots of rocks!), which I had to remove.  Thanks very much.  A. K., Boulder, 11/12/01
A:    Along Colorado's Front Range, we have a series of freeze/thaw cycles in winter that is very hard on plants.  Mulch is used to control soil temperature fluctuations and to reduce frost-heave.  You should apply the mulch after the ground freezes the first time in fall.  The ground will thaw and then re-freeze repeatedly throughout winter, so don't wait for it to freeze permanently.
   You can prepare your flowerbeds now by adding compost or you can wait until spring.  Any components that break down will be available to plants as nutrients and/or improve the tilth of the soil.  
   Be sure to water this winter during dry spells (when there is little or no snow cover for four to six weeks).  Water early in the day when the temperature is above freezing and the ground isn't frozen.
   If you have any young, thin-barked trees you should wrap the trunks with tree wrap, a commercial crepe-type paper, this month.  This protects the trunk from sunscald damage.
   The page "Today's Garden" on my website provides monthly tips on what needs to be done in the garden.  You might find it helpful.
Q:   I live in Denver and would like to Xeriscape my front lawn where there is currently Bluegrass/Fescue.  Would it be better to kill off the grass in my front yard now and begin planting shrubs or should I put it off until Spring?  Also, what is best to use to kill the grass and not hurt the trees we have, Round-up?
Thanks!  J. B., Denver, 9/24/01
A:   You can use Round-up to kill the grass, but be sure none of the spray gets on trees or other plants you want to keep.  Don't spray when it is windy.  By the time you spray the grass, allow time for it to die and get rid of it by removing it or rototilling it under, it will be a bit late to plant shrubs, trees, and flowers.  Therefore, I suggest that you wait until spring to start this project.  
   If you would like information on Xeriscape contact Denver Water at 303-628-6343 or visit the website www.xeriscape.org.  Also, our website offers a number of books on "Water-wise Gardening" through our Book Store.  CSU Cooperative Extension has several factsheets available on-line at www.ext.colostate.edu or through your county Extension office (720-913-5270).
Q:   I am a first time gardener. I have had allergies all my life. I want flowers but not ones that would set off a sneezing spell.  Please help.   Are bulbs better than seeds in this case?  M. M., Brush, 9/4/01 
A:    To find an answer to your question I used a book by Thomas Leo Ogren called "Allergy-Free Gardening."  The book rates plants on a scale of 1 - 10, based on their pollen production and tendency to disperse pollen.  I discovered that the real allergy villains are trees and grass, because they produce huge amounts of pollen that spread readily.  Some of the worst offenders are Olive, Ash, Silver Maple, Oak and Alder trees as well as members of the Willow (Salix), the Sumac (Rhus), Buckthorn (Rhamnus) and Juniper families.  Bermuda grass, Kentucky Bluegrass, Fountain grass, Ryegrass -- and most every other kind of grass -- also rank at the top of the list of bad guys.  I have compiled a list of annuals, bulbs, and perennials that placed at the bottom of the allergen potential scale and therefore should be good choices for your garden.

Bulbs: Allium, Crocus, Glory-of-the-Snow (Chinodoxa), Grape Hyacinth, Snowdrop (Galanthus)

Annuals: Impatiens, Lobelia, Moss Rose (Portulaca grandiflora), Pansy/Viola, Petunia, Snapdragons, Vinca (Catharanthus roseus)

Perennials: Ajuga, Anchusa, Aubrieta, Balloon Flower (Platycodon grandiflorus), Beard Tongue (Penstemon), Bellflower/Canterbury Bells (Campanula), Candytuft (Iberis), Columbine (Aquilegia), Coral Bell (Heuchera), Forget-Me-Not (Myosotis), Gaura, Geum, Hosta, Peony, Rockcress (Arabis), Sea Pink (Armeria), Toadflax (Linaria), Twinspur (Diascia), Veronica
Q:    I am looking for a program in Colorado to help with training to start a flower store.  I live in a small town that needs a flower store and I would love doing it.  If you know where I could take classes for floral design, as well as the business end of it, please let me know. 
Thank you very much.  P. D., Salida, 8/14/01
A:    You might check with community colleges in your area to see if any of them offer floral design classes.  I checked the yellow pages for Pueblo and Colorado Springs, but found no entries under floral design instruction. Surely something is available!  You might try calling some florists in those cities to see if they can provide some information.  There are five listings in the Denver yellow pages:  Cliff Mann/Trim International Floral School  -- 303-388-7377, Colorado Floral Education Center -- 303-426-6123, Emily Griffith Opportunity School -- 303-575-4700, Floraison Academy of Floral Design -- 303-623-8855, and Mr. K's Floral Design School of Denver -- 303-936-4141.  The Colorado Floral Education Center's ad mentions it offers instruction on floral business management as well as floral design.
   For more information on starting a business you might also want to contact the U. S. Small Business Administration.  They have development centers that can assist you.  Their website address is www.sba.gov.  Also, the Colorado Business Assistance Center will help you: 303-592-5920 or 800-333-7798.
Q:   What is the best mix for beautiful, but low-water need, grass?  Also, what is the best source for knowledge about plants for xeriscaping  that results in beautiful flowers and shrubs?  Thanks.  C. L., Fort Collins, 7/15/01
A:   Choices for grass tend to be quite limited and divide into two separate categories.  "Beautiful" describes traditional lawns such as Kentucky Blue grass and tall fescue.  "Low-water" describes Buffalograss, which typically isn't considered so beautiful.  Of these, tall fescue may be the best choice.
  There are several sources of information on xeriscape.  A number of books are available:
      Xeriscape Color Guide -- David Winger, editor
      Xeriscape Plant Guide -- Denver Water
      Xeriscape Handbook -- Gail Weinstein     
      The Xeriscape Flower Gardener -- Jim Knopf
      Waterwise Landscaping with Trees, Shrubs, and Vines -- Jim Knopf
      Dry-Land Gardening -- Jennifer Bennett    
For addtional information about these books or to purchase them, please see my website, Colorado Gardening.  Click on "Book Store."  Click on the "Select a book category" box, then click on "Waterwise Gardening."
Q:   Is there any helpful information on gardening in Colorado?   We moved here from northern Minnesota where the soil there is a lot different than it is here.  HELP?  J. N., Littleton, 7/27/01
A:   A number of resources regarding gardening in Colorado are available.  Please go to my website www.coloradogardening.com.  In the menu you will find the heading "Resources."  Several of these categories list items you should find helpful.  Also click on the heading "Book Store" in the menu.  A number of excellent books on gardening in Colorado are available. Our list of classes and other gardening events may also be of interest to you.  I wish you success with your garden.
Q:   I would like to know if there is a group of household items like dish soap, ammonia, etc. that can be combined and sprayed on clay soil to help loosen it.  I saw a gardener on PBS 2-3 months ago, and he was talking about this combination.  I would like to get the "recipe" for it.  He had several tips for soil preparation and I did not get them.  Can you help?  C. C., Longmont, 7/1 01
A:   The gardener on PBS that you saw was probably Jerry Baker.  He is well known for his tonics for garden problems.  PBS runs several of his shows periodically -- usually during a pledge drive.  I do not have any of his recipes.  You might find information on his website:  www.jerrybaker.com.
Q:   I am interested in plants that are not toxic to pets.  Sometimes I can't get a straight answer at the nursery about what is and is not actually poisonous.  M. R., Denver, 6/7/01
A:   I have found some information on plants that are poisonous to pets as well as some resources for you.  I found an article that has a list of poisonous plants on the website: www.healthypet.com. Click on Pet Care Library and scroll down to Preventive Care.  You will find the title "Prevent Poisonings."  Also, you can read an article concerning this topic on the website www.avma.org.  Click on Care for Animals, click on the heading Animal Safety, click on Poison Control, and click on Plant Poisoning.  The National Animal Poison Control Center (1-800-548-2428) may also have information.  The Rocky Mountain Poison Center has a list of plants that are non-toxic to people, as well as a list of known toxic plants.  If you would like a copy please call them at 303-739-1123.  Another possible source of information is the national hot line of the American Association of Poison Control Centers at 1- 800-222-1222. 
Q:   Our well water has a very high saline content.  While it passes the requirements for drinking water, it is very tough on our plants and vegetable garden.  What can I do to correct this?  I am mainly looking for a temporary fix as we should have the problem fixed by this time next year.  Thank you.  D. E., Brighton, 6/3/01
A:   It appears you need an alternate source of water temporarily.  My only thought is to collect rain water.  You can catch runoff from gutters in barrels, for example. Unfortunately, there are no simple remedies, such as putting chemicals in the water.  Avoid rapid evaporation of water, which tends to concentrate salts in the root zone of plants.  Use a layer of mulch around plants to slow evaporation and be sure to check the moisture level of the soil frequently.
  If your well water has a very high saline content, your soil may too.  You might want to get a soil test done using a sample that hasn't been watered with the well water.  You should gradually improve the drainage and tilth of your soil.  Add a small amount of organic matter to the soil each year.  Beware -- adding too much at once will create a layer of soil that the salts will collect in.  When watering, water slowly and heavily to leach the salt out of the root zone of plants.  If necessary, choose plants that tend to be tolerant of saline conditions, e.g., tall fescue grass rather than Kentucky bluegrass.
Q:    We are renovating an old house in downtown Telluride (altitude 8,800 ft.) as a vacation home and wish to put in a low maintenance lawn and garden.  Any suggestions on what we should or should not put in?  R. L., Ann Arbor, MI, 4/27/01
A:    When planning a low maintenance landscape a major step to take is to limit the amount of lawn.  Lawns require lots of work:  watering, fertilizing, weeding, mowing, and edging.  These same items make them expensive to maintain as well.  To eliminate weeds in shrub borders, use landscape fabric topped with river rock and/or cobble.  Shrubs require less work than perennials, which need dead-heading, dividing and clean-up.  Perennials, though, are less work than annuals, which require replanting each year.  When possible, choose native plants.  You have a better chance of success without having to coddle plants that must struggle to survive in a foreign environment.  
   For specific plants to use at your altitude consult a local garden center for advice.  The following are suggested in Gardening in the Mountain West by Barbara Hyde.  
   Evergreen Trees: Bristlecone Pine, Limber Pine, Colorado Spruce
   Deciduous Trees: Aspen, Balsam Poplar, Thin-leaf Alder
   Shrubs:  Savin Juniper, Serviceberry, Peking Cotoneaster, Creeping Grape   Holly, Cinquefoil, Lilac
   Perennials: Columbine, Yarrow, Gentian, Cone Flower, (many will work)
   Annuals: Pansy, Snapdragon, Swan River Daisy, Dianthus
Q:    Is there anything I can do to help young trees survive after a severe hail storm shredded most of the leaves?  D., Cody, WY; 5/27/01
A:    If a hail storm damages leaves early in the growing season, usually plants recover and re-leaf.  Trim off any damaged branches, making a nice clean cut that deters insects and diseases.  Also, you might want to apply a bit of fertilizer to encourage new growth.
Q:    I am looking for some good books or websites on gardening in Aspen, CO, for my boss who owns a home there.  Can you suggest any that may help him in that region?  Thank you!  S. M., Austin, TX, 3/9/01
A:    Unfortunately, there are few resources available on gardening in the mountains.  The revised second edition (1999) of "Gardening in the Mountain West" by Barbara Hyde might be helpful.  You will find information pertaining to gardening in high altitudes throughout the book as well as a chapter specifically devoted to gardens for mountain homes.  The plant lists and "how-to" information may especially prove useful.
   "Colorado's Great Gardens: Plains, Mountains & Plateaus" by Rob Proctor and Georgia Garnsey contains beautiful photos of gardens in Colorado, including ones in mountain communities.  The photos as well as the text describing each garden provide information that would be helpful when designing or remodeling a garden.  Both of these books can be ordered through my website's Book Store.
   Denver Botanic Gardens has a good booklet, "Mountain Gardening" (Vol. 55, Number 1, Spring 1998 of Mountain, Plain and Garden).  It has articles by leading Colorado garden authors on a number of  topics.  You can order it by calling 720-865-3595.
Q:  Hello! I work for a nursing home in Aurora and we have two large outdoor areas that we are wanting to turn in to garden areas for our residents to enjoy.  We are on a limited budget and have little knowledge of planning a garden but have eager families, staff and residents that are willing to help with this project.  Do you have any ideas of groups or individuals that would help us design and develop our garden? K. O., Aurora, 2/20/01
A:   I can think of a few organizations you might contact for assistance. Perhaps they can provide referrals or post a notice regarding your request.
1) I suggest that you contact your county CSU Cooperative Extension office. There may be Master Gardeners available who could assist you with this project.  Since the city of Aurora overlaps Adams (303-637-8100) and Arapahoe (303-730-1920) counties, you should contact both offices.  You may also want to contact the Denver office (720-913-5270).
2) Denver Botanic Gardens offers a Horticultural Therapy certificate program.  Instructors and/or participants may be able to recommend someone who can help you.  They may also be able to provide or suggest educational materials and references that would be helpful.  Rebecca Haller is one of the instructors in the program.  Ask about speaking with her.  Call 720-865-3580.
  Another resource that might be helpful when planning your garden is the website for Buehler Enabling Garden and Horticultural Therapy Services at the Chicago Botanic Garden.  The site has a nice list of publications on creating enabling gardens, including some that can be ordered through the site.  The website address is www.chicago-botanic.org/HortTherapy.html.   
3) Denver Urban Gardens, whose projects include the Aurora area, may be able to assist you with this project or provide referrals and information.  Call 303-292-9900.
  A few basic suggestions you might consider:
1) To accommodate wheelchairs, use raised beds for planting flowers and vegetables and be sure to provide smooth, broad paths.
2) Some residents may enjoy planting containers with flowers and helping to water them.  Use large containers or place smaller ones on stand or tables so they are at a level residents in wheelchairs can easily reach.
3) Birdbaths and birdfeeders provide added interest.  Also, be sure to include plants that attract butterflies.  (I'll send you a list from the Butterfly Pavilion.)
4) Check to be sure that plants are not poisonous.
5) Appeal to the senses with fragrant plants and flowers, bright colored flowers, and a variety of textured leaves.
  Good luck with your project.
Q:    I have been an avid gardener for several years and I am interested in a career in horticulture.  I have degrees in liberal arts.  Any suggestions?  M.,11/29/00 
A:    If you enjoy gardening and are interested in a career in horticulture, you definitely should look into it. There are a number of places with horticulture-related jobs that you might investigate.  Consider contacting places such as greenhouses (wholesale and retail growers), garden centers (See Garden Centers of Colorado at www.gardeningcolorado.com), county and city parks departments, public gardens (e.g., Denver Botanic Gardens, Hudson Gardens), etc.
   Your background in liberal arts has equipped you with useful skills.  To strengthen your horticulture skills, employers may want you to take some horticulture classes.  Classes are usually offered at local community or state colleges.  Or you might look into the certificate programs available through Denver Botanic Gardens.  Also, the Colorado State University Master Gardener program offers valuable training.
   Best wishes for finding a career doing something you really love. 
Q:    I am new in the area and would love to know what grows well at 8500 feet up!!!  I live on 3 acres so I have lots of room for lots of color and beauty!!!  What about the soil??? How do I deal with that?  We have our own water pump...so really no problem there.  T. M., Monument, 8/12/00 
A:
   You are lucky that water isn't a problem.  It is a major concern in many parts of Colorado.  You may find it desirable to amend the soil with organic matter such as aged barnyard manure or coarse, partially decomposed compost prior to planting.  Sphagnum peat works well but is expensive.  Spread a 1 and 1/4 inch layer of amendment on top of the soil and then till it thoroughly into the soil.
    Many colorful perennials and annuals grow well at high altitudes:
Yarrow (Achillea filipendula)            Columbine (Aquilegia)
Peony (Paeonia officinalis)             Clustered Bellflower (Campanula glomerata)
Bearded Iris (Iris germanica)           Shasta Daisy (Chrysanthemum maximum)
Iceland Poppy (Papaver nudicale)    Hardy Delphinium (Delphinium elatum)
Pansy (Viola)                                Johnny Jump-up (Viola kitaibeliana)
    For additional information on gardening at high altitudes contact your county office of CSU Cooperative Extension and request these free factsheets: 7.406 (Garden Flowers for Mountain Communities), 7.407 (Shrubs for Mountain Communities), and 7.408 (Trees for Mountain Communities).  In El Paso County the phone number is (719) 636-8920.
    Denver Botanic Garden has a booklet, "Mountain Gardening," that contains articles by several noted Colorado garden experts.  Also, "Perennials With Altitude, A High Country Gardener's Handbook" might be useful. It is available at local garden centers and from Connections Publishing, 99 Catamount Ridge Rd., Bailey, CO 80421. ( $9.95 plus $2.00 shipping and handling).
Q:    Do you have any clubs listed yet?  I live in Loveland.  Ron, Loveland, 7/14/00
A:
   No one has requested that their club be listed on our website yet, much to our disappointment!  However, I am aware of two clubs in the Loveland area that were mentioned in Penstemon, a garden newsletter.
   The Loveland Garden Club meets monthly on the third Wednesday of the month at 3448 N. Taft Ave.  Phone: 970-663-7692.
   The Loveland Rose Society meets on the third Friday of every month at 1003 West 6th St. from 2-4 p.m.  Phone: 970-532-3951.
   Hopefully, one of these clubs will work out for you.
Q:    What gardening zone is the North Denver area in?  M., Denver, 6/19/00
A:    North Denver is in USDA hardiness zone 5.  Check the label when buying plants.  If a plant is labeled for zone 5 or lower it should be able to survive our winter weather.  On the other hand, plants labeled zone 6 or higher might not survive cold weather. 
Q:     I'm trying to find out what I should put in my soil to help break up the heavy clay soil.  I've been tilling in grass clippings and clean straw.  I may need chemicals or something.  There is very poor drainage and when I till it brings up clods.  I wonder if raised beds would help.  B. P., Hugo, 4/19/00
A:     Heavy clay soil is a common problem in Colorado.  The best remedy is to add organic matter: compost, peat moss, aged manure, etc. (Avoid the use of steer manure in vegetable gardens due to the possible presence of E.coli bacteria.)  Add approximately 3 cubic yards of organic matter per 1000 square feet each year.  This is a layer about 1 and 1/4 inches deep spread evenly over the soil surface.  Till it thoroughly into the soil.
    There are no chemicals that will fix this problem.  Adding organic matter gradually over a period of years should help but admittedly is a slow process.
     Avoid tilling the soil when it is wet.  That will cause more problems by creating clods.
     Raised beds are a good idea and are often recommended for situations like yours.  
Q:     I am planning to start a garden and I live in Boulder.  Is it too early to start?  We are planning to have flowers, vegetables and herbs and still need to break ground for the garden.  I don't know when the final frost date is for my area.  From P. M., Boulder, 3/30/00
A:     Your question is very timely.  Along the Front Range the final frost date is May 12th (or around Mother's Day).  For a higher confidence level, it is May 18th.  Therefore, you should wait until mid-May to plant tender flowers, vegetables and herbs.